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Basilicata: searching for climbing's Never Never land. By Marzio Nardi
30/10/2015 - Climbing
Basilicata: searching for climbing's Never Never land. By Marzio Nardi
Marzio Nardi reports about Rock Slave XP 2015, the climbing trip to Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa and the Lucane Dolomites in Basilicata, Souther Italy. A journey inspired by the famous book "Mezzogiorno di pietra" published in 1985 by Alessandro Gogna.
Alessandro Zeni repeats Ultimo Movimento by Manolo at Totoga
28/10/2015 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni repeats Ultimo Movimento by Manolo at Totoga
The report by Alessandro Zeni who on 26/10/2015 at Totoga in the Primiero Dolomites carried out the third ascent of Ultimo Movimento, freed by Maurizio Manolo Zanolla in 1986 and famous for being the first 8b sports climb in Italy.
Sport climbing safety, some big little steps to start off with
27/10/2015 - Climbing
Sport climbing safety, some big little steps to start off with
Some quick thoughts and an "outburst" by Nicola Tondini - Italian mountain guide and director of the King Rock climbing wall in Verona - about sport climbing safety. Safe climbing must begin with big little steps (such as the correct...
Russian women repeat Gunko route on Alexander Blok Peak in Kyrgyzstan's Aksu
22/10/2015 - Alpinism
Russian women repeat Gunko route on Alexander Blok Peak in Kyrgyzstan's Aksu
A female team of Russian climbers comprised of Marina Popova, Julia Borisova, Alexandra Mentovskaya and Olesya Babushkina has made the first repeat of the Gunko route (950m, Russian 6A) on the West Face of Peak Alexander Blok (5239m) in the...
Gabriele Moroni discovers Luogosanto and the most difficult boulder problem in Sardinia
20/10/2015 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni discovers Luogosanto and the most difficult boulder problem in Sardinia
The report by Gabriele Moroni about his first climbing trip to Sardinia during which, at Bosco di Luogosanto in Gallura, he freed Patagarroso, the first 8B boulder problem on the Italian island.
Family San Martino, the new crag at Arco for families
20/10/2015 - Climbing
Family San Martino, the new crag at Arco for families
The new crag Family San Martino has been inaugurated at Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy). Located close to the historic climbing area Massone, this small sheet of rock has been bolted specifically for families and young children and offers 17 routes...
French forge new climb up Cerro Riso Patrón Central in Patagonia
15/10/2015 - Alpinism
French forge new climb up Cerro Riso Patrón Central in Patagonia
In September 2015 the French alpinists Lise Billon, Antoine Moineville, Diego Simari and Jérôme Sullivan made the first ascent of Hasta las Wuebas (1000m, ED-, WI5, M5, 90°), a new climb up the east face of Cerro Riso Patrón Central,...
Ueli Steck #82Summits interview after the 82 4,000 meter peaks in the Alps
14/10/2015 - Interviews
Ueli Steck #82Summits interview after the 82 4,000 meter peaks in the Alps
Interview with Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck after climbing the 82 alpine four-thousanders, carried out in 62 days last summer from 11/06/2015 to 11/08/2015. The enchainment had previously been carried out in the same self-propelled style by Franco Nicolini and Diego...
Much Mayr frees the Spanish Route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo
12/10/2015 - Climbing
Much Mayr frees the Spanish Route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo
On 27/08/2015 Much Mayr, climbing with Guido Unterwurzacher, made the first free ascent of the Spanish Route on the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Big new rock climb on Monte Fibbion in the Brenta Dolomites
08/10/2015 - Climbing
Big new rock climb on Monte Fibbion in the Brenta Dolomites
Rolando Larcher talks about the first ascent of 50 anni son volati, 25 regalati! (215m, 8a+ max, 7b obl.), a new rock climb established to celebrate his first 50 years together with Herman Zanetti, Luca Giupponi and Alessandro Larcher up...
Angelika Rainer and Tim Emmett win the Red Bull White Cliffs 2015
08/10/2015 - Competitions
Angelika Rainer and Tim Emmett win the Red Bull White Cliffs 2015
The dry tooling climbing competition Red Bull White Cliffs 2015 took place on 3 and 4 October 2015 on the Isle of Wight, England and was won by Tim Emmett (England) and Angelika Rainer (Italy). The report by Marco Servalli.
Daniel Woods, Alexander Megos, Jakob Schubert and Dave Graham rock Flatanger
30/09/2015 - Climbing
Daniel Woods, Alexander Megos, Jakob Schubert and Dave Graham rock Flatanger
Thor’s Hammer 9a+ at Flatanger - Hanshellern in Norway has been repeated by Daniel Woods, Alexander Megos and Jakob Schubert. Dave Graham has made the first repeat of The Illusionist 9a.
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
29/09/2015 - Alpinism
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
Ivo Ferrari retraces the winter repeat of the Pelmo North Face, carried out in the Dolomites by Soro Dorotei, Renato Panciera and Giuliano De Marchi. One of the most memorable stories of alpinism and winter mountaineering
Highline Meeting Monte Piana 2015
22/09/2015 - Events
Highline Meeting Monte Piana 2015
From 10 - 15 September 2015 the Highline Meeting Monte Piana took place close to Misurina in the Dolomites. More than 350 highliners from 20 countries participated in this non-competitive event, during which a new highline world record was set...
Maleficent, new route up Cimone della Bagozza in Italy's Orobic Alps
21/09/2015 - Climbing
Maleficent, new route up Cimone della Bagozza in Italy's Orobic Alps
Fulvio Zanetti talks about the first ascent of Maleficent (320mt 7c+, 7a+ oblig), established together with Francesco Beni up the NW Face of Cimon della Bagozza, Orobic Alps. The new multi-pitch rock climb up the symbol of Val di Scalve...
Jan Hojer and Juliane Wurm win Milan Psicobloc Master Series
14/09/2015 - Climbing
Jan Hojer and Juliane Wurm win Milan Psicobloc Master Series
German climbers Jan Hojer and Juliane Wurm have won the only European stage of the Psicobloc Master Series 2015 which took place at the Idroscalo in Milan, Italy, last weekend. The report and the video of Nicola Noè.