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Gasteinertal, new difficult ice climbs Austria
27/12/2012 - Alpinism
Gasteinertal, new difficult ice climbs Austria
Two new difficult icefalls in Austria's Gasteinertal established by Thomas Bubendorfer, Sepp Inhöger and Hans Zlöbl: Triple A and The usual suspects
Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations
20/12/2012 - Gear
Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations
A sample of carabiners and quickdraws have been tested and analised by Emanuele Pellizzari at the Italian Mountaineering Club Gear and Techniques laboratory at Taggì di Sopra, Villafranca Padovana, Padova, Italy.
Greenland, new rock climb La chute de rein
17/12/2012 - Alpinism
Greenland, new rock climb La chute de rein
In summer 2012 a group of young Swiss climbers established La chute de rein (600m, 6c, A1 pendulum) on peak Whale Top (1303m) in Southern Greenland.
Pillar del Sol Naciente, new route on Cerro Murallón in Patagonia
13/12/2012 - Alpinism
Pillar del Sol Naciente, new route on Cerro Murallón in Patagonia
On Cerro Murallón in Patagonia Lise Billon, Pedro Diaz, François Poncet, Jeremy Stagnetto, Jerome Sullivan have made the first ascent of Sol Naciente (1000m, 7b A1 WI6 M6).
Roland Hemetzberger frees climb in the Wilder Kaiser
27/11/2012 - Climbing
Roland Hemetzberger frees climb in the Wilder Kaiser
On 03/10/2012 Roland Hemetzberger made the first free ascent of "Relikt Noichl Wörndl" (350m, 8b/8b+) in Austria's Wilder Kaiser mountain chain.
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
In July and August 2012 Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori returned to Turkey's Aladaglar massif where they established and freed "Nessuno" (470m, 8a+ max, 7b obligatory) up the North Face of Cima Vay Vay and "Radio...
Croz del Rifugio, new routes and reequipping in the Brenta Dolomites
21/11/2012 - Alpinism
Croz del Rifugio, new routes and reequipping in the Brenta Dolomites
On the North Face of Croz del Rifugio (Brenta Dolomites) Italian Mountain Guide Franco Nicolini has put up two new routes and reequipped the belays of his Via Elena (1988) as well as Via Bregtie, first climbed in 1963 by...
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
20/11/2012 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).
Capo Pecora, Italy's most exotic trad climbing area
19/11/2012 - Climbing
Capo Pecora, Italy's most exotic trad climbing area
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Capo Pecora and the new trad climbs in Sardinia, Italy.
Mick Fowler and the ascent of Prow of Shiva
16/11/2012 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and the ascent of Prow of Shiva
A short interview with British mountaineer Mick Fowler who, together with Paul Ramsden, climbed the stunning new route Prow of Shiva ED+ up Mt. Shiva (6,142m), India.
Yosemite bolt replacement and Death Block removal
15/11/2012 - Climbing
Yosemite bolt replacement and Death Block removal
Two videos by Cheyne Lempe from Yosemite concerning climbing safety: replacement of old bolts and the removal, off El Capitan, of the famous Death Block.
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
14/11/2012 - Climbing
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the...
Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu
12/11/2012 - Climbing
Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu
Four new rock climbs have seen the light of day in the Monte Oddeu massif (Dorgali, Sardinia). These 200m outings are entirely bolt protected, climb, splendid rock and fit in to "plaisir" category.
New Valle dell'Orco rock climb
07/11/2012 - Climbing
New Valle dell'Orco rock climb
In Valle dell'Orco Alex Ostorero and Enrico Griotto have made the first ascent of Waiting for the sun behind the moon (7b, 6b obl./RS2/II).
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
31/10/2012 - Alpinism
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
Climbing in Europe from the point of view of ace American climber Tommy Caldwell who ascended a series of difficult multi-pitches in Rätikon, Val Bavona and Wenden, including the repeat of Portami Via which included the first ascent of a...
New Swiss rock climbs in Greenland's Renland
29/10/2012 - Alpinism
New Swiss rock climbs in Greenland's Renland
This summer a successful Swiss expedition comprised of Jacksch, Ledergerber, Schüpbach and Reist established four long new routes in Renland, Greenland.

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