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Piolets d'Or 2013: the incomprehensible universal tie
08/04/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013: the incomprehensible universal tie
Some thoughts about the Jury verdict of the 21st Piolet d'Or 2013 which assigned the award to all six nominated ascents.
Piolets d'Or 2013: everyone wins
06/04/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013: everyone wins
The prize for the best climb of 2012 was awarded at the end of an exciting ceremony in Courmayeur last night to all six nominated ascents. The Piolet d'Or Walter Bonatti Lifetime Achievement Award was given to Austria's Kurt Diemberger.
Hazel Findlay climbs her second E9
03/04/2013 - Climbing
Hazel Findlay climbs her second E9
English rock climber Hazel Findlay has climbed her second E9, Chicama at Treaddur Bay, Holyhead, Wales.
Eiger North Face: English winter attempt of Russian route
01/04/2013 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face: English winter attempt of Russian route
The video of the march 2013 attempt by Andy Kirkpatrick, Ross Kain and Neil Chelton to repeat the Russian route up the North Face of the Eiger.
Pinocchio, new mixed climb in Val Travenanzes
28/03/2013 - Alpinism
Pinocchio, new mixed climb in Val Travenanzes
Martin Riegler and Florian Riegler have made the first free ascent of Pinocchio (M8+, WI 5), a mixed climb in Val Travenanzes (Dolomites) put up in 2010 by Valentin Riegler and Hannes Lemayr.
Piolets d'Or, special mention to Kennedy, Kruk, Lama and Ornter
22/03/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or, special mention to Kennedy, Kruk, Lama and Ornter
The Jury motivation for the special mention assigned to Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk, David Lama and Peter Ortner which will be awarded during the 21st Piolet d'Or, scheduled to take place from 3 - 6 April 2013 at Courmayeur...
Villanueva, Didier and Hanssens free climbs in Patagonia's Torres del Paine
15/03/2013 - Alpinism
Villanueva, Didier and Hanssens free climbs in Patagonia's Torres del Paine
In Patagonia the Belgian alpinists Stephane Hanssens, Merlin Didier and Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll made the first free ascents of the East Face of Cerro Catedral (1000 m, 7c+) and the East Face of Cerro Cota 2000 (500m, 7c+) while on...
Robert Jasper adds difficult mixed climb to Breitwangflue at Kandersteg
26/02/2013 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper adds difficult mixed climb to Breitwangflue at Kandersteg
On 13/02/2013 Robert Jasper made the first free ascent of the ice and mixed climb Ritter der Kokosnuß (M12, WI5, 165m) up the Breitwangflue at Kandersteg in Switzerland.
Aguglia of Goloritzé, restyling of Sardinia's famous tower
25/02/2013 - Climbing
Aguglia of Goloritzé, restyling of Sardinia's famous tower
Maurizio Oviglia and Gianluca Piras have reequipped the climb Easy Gymopedie and the abseils down the route Sole Incantatore on Aguglia of Goloritzé (Sardinia). The report and video by Maurizio Oviglia about their restyling of one of the most beautiful...
Febbre da Cavallo, new dry-tooling crag at Campitello Matese
15/02/2013 - Alpinism
Febbre da Cavallo, new dry-tooling crag at Campitello Matese
Riccardo Quaranta introduces Febbre da Cavallo, the new dry-tooling crag at Campitello Matese close to Campobasso, Molise, Central Italy.
New icefalls in Canada by Raphael Slawinski
08/02/2013 - Alpinism
New icefalls in Canada by Raphael Slawinski
In the Canadian Rockies Raphael Slawinski has made the first ascent of two new icefalls: The God Delusion (175m, M8+ WI5+) and Nachtmahr (85m, M9 WI5).
Senza piombo, the interview with Albert Leichtfried
06/02/2013 - Alpinism
Senza piombo, the interview with Albert Leichtfried
Interview with Albert Leichtfried after the first ascent together with Benedikt Purner of Senza piombo, the new mixed climb established in Vallunga with difficulties up to M10 WI 5 protected only with trad gear and without bolts and pegs.
Spanish repeat of Felsige Gärten in Austria
05/02/2013 - Alpinism
Spanish repeat of Felsige Gärten in Austria
Luis Penín and Pablo Gomez from Spain have repeated Felsige Gärten in Austria's Tirol.
Difficult winter ascent of Trollveggen Troll Wall in Norway
02/02/2013 - Alpinism
Difficult winter ascent of Trollveggen Troll Wall in Norway
Andy Kirkpatrick, Tormod Granheim and Aleksander Gamme have made a winter ascent of the route Suser Gjennom Harryland on Trollveggen (Troll Wall) in Norway.
Senza piombo, clean mixed climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
01/02/2013 - Alpinism
Senza piombo, clean mixed climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
The Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of Senza piombo in Val Lunga (Dolomites); a difficult mixed route protected only with trad gear and presumably the first M10 in the world established in this clean...
Torres del Paine, new Slovenian North Tower climb
01/02/2013 - Alpinism
Torres del Paine, new Slovenian North Tower climb
On 01/01/2013 the Slovenian alpinists Andrej Grmovšek and Luka Krajnc made the first ascent of Zuko traverse (V 5.10+, 650m).

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