166 News found
16/07/2021 - Alpinism
Lorenzo Scandroglio The Italian mountaineering community is in mourning: Lorenzo Scandroglio, a well-known mountain journalist, writer and translator, mountain hut warden, mountaineer and member of the Italian mountain rescue team, passed away at the age of 52.
21/04/2021 - Alpinism
Adamello, Busazza, Presanella: three north faces climbed in a day by Leonardo Gheza, Giulia Venturelli Italian mountaineers Leonardo Gheza and Giulia Venturelli enchained the north faces of Adamello, Cima della Busazza and Presanella in a single day. The 51km outing covered 3700 vertical gain and was completed in 22 hours.
14/04/2021 - Alpinism
Aiguille de Pélerins, John McCune and Will Sim go Above and Beyond British mountaineers John McCune and Will Sim have climbed what is likely to be a new route to the left of Beyond Good and Evil on the North Face of Aiguille de Pélerins in the Mont Blanc massif. Above and...
26/02/2021 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses new climb by Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri, Luca Schiera On 24/02/2021 the Italian mountaineers Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of Il Regalo di Berna, a new route on the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses dedicated to Matteo Bernasconi. Della Bordella reports.
12/11/2020 - Alpinism
Marmolada: exploring the first refuge in the Dolomites with Bruno Pederiva The oldest refuge in the Dolomites, located on the east face of Punta Penia on Marmolada, featuring mountain guide Bruno Pederiva.
04/11/2020 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites: Frizzi & Lazzi rock climb on Torrione di Vallesinella In summer 2019 Italian mountain guide Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi and Martina Paolazzi made the first ascent of the multi-pitch climb Frizzi & Lazzi on Torrione di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites.
16/10/2020 - Alpinism
The King of Fanes added to Col Bechei, Dolomites, by Simon Kehrer, Manuel Baumgartner The two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of The King of Fanes on the South Face of Col Becchei (Dolomites).
16/09/2020 - Alpinism
Monte Rosa Capanna Margherita end of season timelapse The time-lapse from Capanna Margherita on Monte Rosa. This is the last video of 2020, since the highest mountain hut in the Alps has now closed its summer season.
16/08/2020 - Alpinism
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney Italian mountaineer Leonardo Gheza reports about his solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc massif on 6/08/2020. This might well be the first solo ascent in just a single day. In any case it was...
14/08/2020 - Alpinism
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc Interview with Andrea Lanfri who climbed Mont Blanc via the normal Italian route with Massimo Coda. In all likelihood they are theirs is the first paraclimbing partnership to achieve this undertaking.
01/08/2020 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc Super Integrale de Peutèrey: François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti climb in the footsteps of Renato Casarotto Mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have enchained the Ratti-Vitali route on Aiguille Noire de Peutèrey, the Gervasutti - Boccalatte route on Picco Gugliermina and the Central Pillar of Frêney, first climbed in 1961 by Chris Bonington, Ian Clough,...
24/07/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher decipher their DNA on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of DNA, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Croda degli Alpini, the foresummit of Cima Ovest in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the...
21/07/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla simply Incroyable on Mont Blanc’s Red Pillar of Brouillard Italian mountaineer Federica Mingolla reports about the first integral ascent, with Leonardo Gheza, of Incroyable, the rock climb established just a few days ago on the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo della Bordella, François...
16/07/2020 - Alpinism
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti Matteo Della Bordella, president of the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club, reports about Incroyable, the superb and difficult new route on Red Pillar of Brouillard (Mont Blanc) first ascended on 30 June and 1 July with Matterhorn mountain guides François...
15/07/2020 - Interviews
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest Interview with mountain guide Massimo Bal, prolific setter of new routes throughout the Aosta Valley and the driving force behind the Barliard crag in Valle di Ollomont where € 1,000 worth of climbing gear can be won at the innovative...
30/03/2020 - Alpinism
Aiguille du Plan Mystery solved by Ondrej Húserka and Evka Milovská From 21 to 22 February Slovak mountaineers Ondrej Húserka and Evka Milovská made the first ascent of Mystery (85 °, M8, C1, 600m (15 pitches) on Aiguille du Plan in the Mont Blanc massif. Húserka reports.
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