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Aleksandra Taistra repeats Genius, hard & runout multipitch in Sardinia
15/05/2023 - Climbing
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Genius, hard & runout multipitch in Sardinia
On 20 April 2023 Polish climber Aleksandra Taistra repeated Genius (8b, 300m) on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia, Italy. Established in 2010 by Fabio Palma, Domenico Soldarini and Matteo della Bordella, the line had previously been ascended completely only once before,...
Zanzara Sud climbed free on Monte Colodri at Arco, Italy, by Marco Cordin
17/04/2023 - Climbing
Zanzara Sud climbed free on Monte Colodri at Arco, Italy, by Marco Cordin
The report by Italian aspirant mountain guide Marco Cordin about the first one-day free ascent of Zanzara Sud. Established ground-up by Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti and Franco Cavallaro, this multi-pitch route tackles the south face of the famous Zanzara pillar....
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
21/02/2023 - Alpinism
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
The climbing expedition report to Minteke Valley, Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan, carried out by Dutch climbers Noor van der Veen, Regien Winnubst, Martin Platteschor, Dennis Hendrikx, Robert Löwensteyn, Sjoerd Boersma, Michiel Telkamp, Jeffrey Meesters, Anniek Verschuur, Bas Visscher, Court Haegens and Boris...
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
14/11/2022 - Book-press
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).
We are Mahsa Amini! Interview with Iranian climber Nasim Eshqi
10/10/2022 - Interviews
We are Mahsa Amini! Interview with Iranian climber Nasim Eshqi
On September 16, 2022, Mahsa Amini, a 22-year-old Iranian woman, died after being arrested by the morality police in Tehran. Since then, outrageously brave, predominantly young women across the country have been protesting for human rights, equality and against...
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
30/09/2022 - Alpinism
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
Slovakian alpinist Juraj Švingál reports about Dry Ice Queen (M9- WI6+), a 21-pitch technical mixed climb ascended with Marek Radovský on Mount Zabor in the Kookshal Too massif in Kyrgyzstan. Ascended alpine style on 13 and 14 August 2022, it...
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
29/09/2022 - Alpinism
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
The report by 24-year-old mountain guide Janluca Kostner from Ortisei (Val Gardena, Italy) who between 13 and 14 September 2022 made the first rope-solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Mt. Civetta (Dolomites). Graded IX, the route on the North West...
Cool new Kolosseum multipitch on Hohe Munde in Austria by Egon Egger, Benjamin Zörer
15/07/2022 - Alpinism
Cool new Kolosseum multipitch on Hohe Munde in Austria by Egon Egger, Benjamin Zörer
Egon Egger and Benjamin Zörer have made the first ascent of 'Steh auf Gladiator' on Kolosseum on the SW Face of Hohe Munde in Tyrol, Austria. The 260m route takes an independent line to the right of 'Alte Telfer', past...
Janja Garnbret, Adam Ondra win Chamonix World Cup
12/07/2022 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret, Adam Ondra win Chamonix World Cup
The third stage of the Lead World Cup 2022 was won in Chamonix by Janja Garnbret from Slovenia and Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic.Laura Rogora and Taisei Homma won silver, Chaehyun Seo and Sean Bailey bronze.
Stairway to Heaven in Val Baione (Valle Camonica), Italy
07/07/2022 - Alpinism
Stairway to Heaven in Val Baione (Valle Camonica), Italy
On Cima Bacchetta, at the foot of Italy’s Mount Concarena (Val Baione - Valle Camonica) Leonardo Gheza and Angelo Contessi have made the first ascent of Stairway to heaven. The new route is dedicated to Luca Ducoli.
Anna Hazlett makes first female ascent of Walk of Life E9 in UK
21/06/2022 - Climbing
Anna Hazlett makes first female ascent of Walk of Life E9 in UK
America's Anna Hazlett, aka. Anna Hazelnutt, has made the first female ascent of The Walk of Life, an extremely bold E9 6c at Dyer's Lookout, UK.
Natalia Grossman, Mejdi Schalck climb to spectacular Boulder World Cup victory in Salt Lake City
23/05/2022 - Competitions
Natalia Grossman, Mejdi Schalck climb to spectacular Boulder World Cup victory in Salt Lake City
The third stage of the Boulder World Cup 2022 was won yesterday in Salt Lake City, USA, by Natalia Grossman and Mejdi Schalck.
Mathew Wright deciphers Lake District's E11 Lexicon
23/05/2022 - Interviews
Mathew Wright deciphers Lake District's E11 Lexicon
Interview with Mathew Wright after the 23-year-old British rock climber made the fourth ascent of Lexicon, the E11 at Pavey Ark in the Lake District first ascended by Neil Gresham in summer 2021.
Jacopo Larcher explores dangerous new trad climbs at Cadarese
06/05/2022 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher explores dangerous new trad climbs at Cadarese
At Cadarese in Val d’Ossola, Italy, the South Tyrolean climber Jacopo Larcher has freed two difficult trad climbs: Waiting for ... and Jeune et con.
Seb Berthe abandons Dawn Wall attempt on El Capitan
18/04/2022 - Climbing
Seb Berthe abandons Dawn Wall attempt on El Capitan
Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe has abandoned his attempt to free climb Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA. First climbed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson and repeated by Adam Ondra, this is known as the most difficult big...
Mari Salvesen flashes Belly Full of Bad Berries, notorious offwidth at Indian Creek, USA
13/04/2022 - Climbing
Mari Salvesen flashes Belly Full of Bad Berries, notorious offwidth at Indian Creek, USA
A few days ago 32-year-old Mari Salvesen of Norway flashed the notorious Belly Full of Bad Berries in Indian Creek, USA, becoming only the second person to do so after Pete Whittaker in 2011. Salvesen reports about her ascent which has...

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