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Full Pakke established at Bodø in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Kristian Vindvik
15/02/2024 - Alpinism
Full Pakke established at Bodø in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Kristian Vindvik
Joda Dolmans and Kristian Vindvik have made the first ascent of 'Full Pakke' (M5, WI6, R) at Bodø in northern Norway. Dolmans reports about the new mixed outing he describes as 'one of the best new winter routes that I’ve...
La Penultima added to Elferkofel in Dolomites, Italy
13/02/2024 - Alpinism
La Penultima added to Elferkofel in Dolomites, Italy
Samuel Holzknecht, Simon Messner and Cesare Olivetti have made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'La Penultima' on Elferkofel / Cima Undici in the Sexten Dolomites, Italy. The 450m climb above Fischleintal ends at the Cengia degli Alpini ledge.
New mixed climb added to Mont Noire de Peuterey by Richard Tiraboschi, Giuseppe Vidoni
09/02/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb added to Mont Noire de Peuterey by Richard Tiraboschi, Giuseppe Vidoni
On 02/05/2024 Italian alpinists Richard Tiraboschi and Giuseppe Vidoni made the first ascent of 'Couloir Noire' (400m, AI4, M5) on Mont Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif. Vidoni reports.
Remote icefall climbed on Becca des Arbiére in Italy's Aosta valley
05/02/2024 - Alpinism
Remote icefall climbed on Becca des Arbiére in Italy's Aosta valley
On 01/27/2024 François Cazzanelli, Stefano Stradelli and Giuseppe Vidoni made the first ascent of 'La Cascata dell'Arbiére' (100m, WI4) on Becca des Arbiére in the Saint-Barthélemy valley in Valle d'Aosta.
James Pearson makes first repeat of Franco Cookson's bold trad climb Immortal
29/01/2024 - Climbing
James Pearson makes first repeat of Franco Cookson's bold trad climb Immortal
British climber James Pearson has made the first repeat of the trad climb 'Immortal' at Maiden's Bluff, Yorkshire, UK
Il Cigno Nero, new mixed climb on Cima Falkner in Brenta Dolomites
12/01/2024 - Alpinism
Il Cigno Nero, new mixed climb on Cima Falkner in Brenta Dolomites
Enrico Lovato reports about the first ascent of 'Il Cigno Nero' (320m, 5+, M7, 40°) established on the north-east face of Cima Falkner in the Brenta Dolomites with Federico Asciolla on 5 January 2024.
Tomoa Narasaki flashes Gakido 8B+ at Chigobudau in Japan
09/01/2024 - Climbing
Tomoa Narasaki flashes Gakido 8B+ at Chigobudau in Japan
On 20/12/2023 Japanese climber Tomoa Narasaki flashed 'Gakido', a boulder problem at Chigobudau previously rated 8C+. After using a slightly different sequence, Narasaki suggested 8B+. He then freed the sitstart project at 8C, calling it 'Ashuradō'.
Alex Megos interview after Siurana Sleeping Lion second ascent
06/01/2024 - Interviews
Alex Megos interview after Siurana Sleeping Lion second ascent
Interview with German climber Alexander Megos who on 4 January 2024 made the first repeat of Sleeping Lion at Siurana in Spain. Established by Chris Sharma in March 2023 and originally graded 9b+, Megos believes the route warrants 9b.
New Brenta Dolomites mixed climb on Cima delle Fontane Fredde
03/01/2024 - Alpinism
New Brenta Dolomites mixed climb on Cima delle Fontane Fredde
On 22/12/2023 Davide Galizzi and Daniele Leonardelli established 'Trilly occhi di ghiaccio', a new mixed climb on Cima delle Fontane Fredde in the Brenta Dolomites. Galizzi report.
Cerro Nora Oeste in Patagonia first ascent by Paolo Marazzi, Luca Schiera
26/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cerro Nora Oeste in Patagonia first ascent by Paolo Marazzi, Luca Schiera
On 24/11/2023 Italian mountaineers Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera completed the first ascent of the unclimbed Cerro Nora Oeste above the Campo de Hielo Norte glacier in Patagonia, Chile. The expedition included Giovanni Ongaro and Andrea Carretta. Marazzi and Schiera...
Spectacular new ice climb in Val Ombretta opposite Marmolada (Dolomites)
22/12/2023 - Alpinism
Spectacular new ice climb in Val Ombretta opposite Marmolada (Dolomites)
Emanuele Andreozzi and Vaida Vaivadaite have established 'First Time', a spectacular new ice climb in Val Ombretta directly opposite the south face of the Marmolada in the Dolomites, Italy.
Cool Chobutse climb in Nepal completed by Wadim Jabłoński, Maciej Kimel
19/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cool Chobutse climb in Nepal completed by Wadim Jabłoński, Maciej Kimel
Climbing alpine style from 14 - 18 October 2023, Polish alpinists Wadim Jabłoński and Maciej Kimel established 'Just Breathe' (M5 WI4 R/X 1600m) on the NE Pillar of Chobutse / Tsoboje (6686m) in the Rolwaling Himalaya of Nepal.
Cholatse West Face climbed by Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
13/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cholatse West Face climbed by Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
Climbing alpine style from 2-3 November 2023, Czech mountaineers Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák made the first ascent of 'Just one solution!'(ED WI4+, M5, 1200m) up the West Face of Cholatse (6440m) in Nepal. Hák reports about the route dedicated...
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
12/12/2023 - Alpinism
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
From 4 to 7 October 2023 Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of 'Oltre il Diau' on the southwest face of Antelao (Dolomites). Walpoth reports.
Michaela Kiersch's marvellous Margalef month
08/12/2023 - Climbing
Michaela Kiersch's marvellous Margalef month
American climber Michaela Kiersch has spent a month in Margalef, Spain, during which she has amassed an impressive list of climbs including 'Era Vella' (9a), 'Victimes del futur' (9a) and 'Coma sant pere' (8c+).
ACTS open letter to IFSC protesting against NEOM Beach Games and environmental and ethical policy
05/12/2023 - Environment
ACTS open letter to IFSC protesting against NEOM Beach Games and environmental and ethical policy
The ACTS For Our Summits association has written an Open Letter to the IFSC expressing its concerns about the NEOM Masters 2023 climbing competition, and urging the IFSC to take stronger actions regarding environmental and social issues. Over 110 IFSC...

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