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News in archive
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
14/11/2012 - Climbing
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the...
Cédric Lachat and the Red River Gorge video
13/11/2012 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat and the Red River Gorge video
Video by Cédric Lachat of his climbs at the Red River Gorge, including footage of Michaël Fuselier, Daniel Woods and Adam Ondra.
Dawn Wall, the El Capitan project continues
13/11/2012 - Climbing
Dawn Wall, the El Capitan project continues
Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson Jonathan Siegrist are currently working the crux central pitches of the demanding Dawn Wall project on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
Piolets d’Or Asia, the 2012 winners
12/11/2012 - Alpinism
Piolets d’Or Asia, the 2012 winners
The 7th Piolet d’Or Asia 2012 was held in Seoul, Korea on 9/11/2012. The alpine award went to the Korean mountaineers Kim Chang-ho and An Chi-young, as well as Zhou Peng and Lee Shuang. Denis Urbko from Kazakhstan won the...
Simnang Himal first ascent by Ukrainian expedition
12/11/2012 - Alpinism
Simnang Himal first ascent by Ukrainian expedition
In October 2012 Ukrainian alpinists Serhiy Bublik and Mykola Shymko succeeded in the first ascent of Simnang Himal (also referred to as peak P2), the 6251m high mountain located in the Manaslu region of the Himalaya.
Jacopo Larcher and Melissa Le Nevé outstanding at Red River Gorge
12/11/2012 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher and Melissa Le Nevé outstanding at Red River Gorge
At Red River Gorge (USA) Jacopo Larcher has sent his first 9a, while Melissa Le Nevé has redpointed her first 8c+.
Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu
12/11/2012 - Climbing
Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu
Four new rock climbs have seen the light of day in the Monte Oddeu massif (Dorgali, Sardinia). These 200m outings are entirely bolt protected, climb, splendid rock and fit in to "plaisir" category.
Odyssey, free streaming for 10 days
09/11/2012 - Climbing
Odyssey, free streaming for 10 days
From tomorrow evening and for 10 days it will be possible to watch the latest Hot Aches Productions film for free: Odyssey staring Hansjörg Auer, Caroline Ciavaldini, Hazel Findlay and James Pearson.
Janak West Face, first ascent in the Himalaya by Marcic and Strazar
09/11/2012 - Alpinism
Janak West Face, first ascent in the Himalaya by Marcic and Strazar
The Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar have made the first ascent of Blue Racer (80°, M4, 1100m), a new route up the virgin West Face of Janak (Himalaya).
Val Bavona, new rock climb and free ascents by Tobias Wolf
09/11/2012 - Climbing
Val Bavona, new rock climb and free ascents by Tobias Wolf
In Val Bavona (Switzerland) Tobias Wolf has made the first ascent of Saga di Valle Bavona (7c+/8a, 205m).
Samuel Anthamatten and his love for freeride
08/11/2012 - Interviews
Samuel Anthamatten and his love for freeride
Interview by Ellade Ossola with Samuel Anthamatten, the Swiss freerider and alpinist, on the eve of the Evolution Vertical event organized by New Rock and scheduled to take place in Lugano, Switzerland on Friday 9 November.
First ascent of Kemailong in China's Shaluli Shan
08/11/2012 - Alpinism
First ascent of Kemailong in China's Shaluli Shan
In China's Shaluli Shan mountain range Dave Anderson and Szu-ting Yi have made the first ascent of Kemailong (5870m).
International Master’s Course in Mountain Medicine, the final report by Doctor Luigi Festi
08/11/2012 - Alpinism
International Master’s Course in Mountain Medicine, the final report by Doctor Luigi Festi
The 1st International Master Course in Mountain Medicine will be completed with the final thesis and diploma at the Insubria University. This project, unique and innovative, came to life as a real challenge and involved 14 doctors from all of...
Großer Falkenstein, new multi-pitch climb in Austria
07/11/2012 - Climbing
Großer Falkenstein, new multi-pitch climb in Austria
Vittorio Messini and Isidor Poppeller have made the first ascent of Die Ritter der Kokosnuss up Großer Falkenstein, Austria.
New Valle dell'Orco rock climb
07/11/2012 - Climbing
New Valle dell'Orco rock climb
In Valle dell'Orco Alex Ostorero and Enrico Griotto have made the first ascent of Waiting for the sun behind the moon (7b, 6b obl./RS2/II).
Michi Wohlleben frees Hystrix
07/11/2012 - Climbing
Michi Wohlleben frees Hystrix
German climber Michi Wohlleben has made the first free ascent of Hystrix (200m, 8a+ max, 7a obligatory), the climb established by Matteo Giglio with partners up the north face of Pizzo Campana (Rocca Busambra), close to Palermo, Italy.

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