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Großer Falkenstein, new multi-pitch climb in Austria

Vittorio Messini and Isidor Poppeller have made the first ascent of Die Ritter der Kokosnuss up Großer Falkenstein, Austria.

Planetmountain

November 2012

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10/2012: Die Ritter der Kokosnuss (7b, 120m, Vittorio Messini, Isidor Poppeller)

A new route has been added to the beautiful south face of Großer Falkenstein close to Matrei in East Tirol thanks to Vittorio Messini and Isidor Poppeller who added Die Ritter der Kokosnuss. Established this autumn ground-up and freed on 14 October, the route presents difficulties up to 7b+ and joins the other 6 multi pitches on the 120m high face.

TOPO: Die Ritter der Kokosnus, Falkenstein, Austria

GROßER FALKENSTEIN
Hans'n Hack'n indirekt 7a+
FA: Franz Niederegger, '90's, ground-up.
P1: 6b, P2: 6b+, P3: 7a+, P4: 6b+

Hans'n Hack'n direkt 7b+
FA:Franz Niederegger, '90's, ground-up.
P1: 7b+, P2: 7b+, poi continuare lungo gli ultimi due tiri di Indirekt

Hans'n Hack'n mit Blaslriss 7a+
Recommended sports climb
P1: Ascend the single pitch Mundl Sackbauer, 6c+. P2: Continue up the crack to reach the second belay of Hans's Hack'n (first climbed by Sepp "Blasl" Mayerl) 6c+. Continue up the last two pitches of Han's Hack'n

Gorillaz Gusto: 7c
FA:Eter Ortner, Harald Zlöbl, 2010, ground-up. FFA: Harald Zlöbl 2010. Recommended sports climb
P1: Ascend the single pitch Mundl Sackbauer, 6c+. P2: 7c, P3: 7a+, P4: 6b

Die Ritter der Kokosnuss: 7b+
FA:Isidor Poppeller, Vittorio Messini, 2012, ground-up.
P1: 6c+, P2: 7a+/7b, P3: 6a+, P4: 7b+

Per Sempre: 8c+
FA: Herbert Ranggetiner, 2004
Start up the the Michael Pichler's route Woppl P1: 7a, P2: 7a+. Then continue up P3: 8c+

Access: From San Candido continue north to Lienz and along the Felbertauernstraße to reach Matrei in Osttirol. Turn off shortly after the village at the sign "Hinterburg - Glanz" and follow signs for "Parkplatz Edelweißwiese". From the car park continue on foot, past the Kleiner Falkenstein crag and on to Großer Falkenstein. Circa 20 minutes.

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