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Pioneering Patagonia: Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera climb Cerro Mangiafuoco
26/01/2019 - Alpinism
Pioneering Patagonia: Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera climb Cerro Mangiafuoco
In Patagonia the two Ragni di Lecco alpinists Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera have made the first ascent of Cerro Mangiafuoco. The new route is called L'appel du vide (6c M4 400m).
Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2019 gets off to a blazing start at Bischofshofen in Austria
21/01/2019 - Competitions
Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2019 gets off to a blazing start at Bischofshofen in Austria
Bischofshofen in Austria hosted the first stage of the Ski Mountaineering World Cup. 2019.Robert Antonioli and Marianne Fatton won the Sprint race, while the Individual race was won by Michele Boscacci and Axelle Mollaret.
Last Minute, new mixed climb in Dolomites Langental
19/01/2019 - Alpinism
Last Minute, new mixed climb in Dolomites Langental
Dolomites ice climbing: at the end of 2018 in the Langental - Vallunga, Petr Vejvoda and Jan Zahula established Ultimo Minuto, a new mixed climb to the right of the famous icefall Piovra.
Agostino Gustin Gazzera, goodbye to the spirit of the mountaineer
17/01/2019 - Alpinism
Agostino Gustin Gazzera, goodbye to the spirit of the mountaineer
In memory of Agostino 'Gustin' Gazzera. Born in 1927, the Italian alpinist died on 11 January 2019 after demonstrating a lifetime’s love for the mountains.
Selvaggia Sorte, Cima Tosa and the 2013 first ascent by Tomas Franchini, Alessandro Lucchi
14/01/2019 - Alpinism
Selvaggia Sorte, Cima Tosa and the 2013 first ascent by Tomas Franchini, Alessandro Lucchi
Tomas Franchini recalls the first ascent of Selvaggia Sorte up Cima Tosa, 3133 m, in the Brenta Dolomites. After a first solo attempt, the mixed climb was established by Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013
Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald establish Räuber Hotzenplotz, new mixed climb in South Tyrol
12/01/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald establish Räuber Hotzenplotz, new mixed climb in South Tyrol
South Tyrolean alpinists Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald have made the first ascent of Räuber Hotzenplotz (M9 Wi5). This mixed climb is located to the left of the famous Koflerbach icefall close to Sand in Taufers in the South Tyrol,...
Alexander Huber rope-solo first ascent of Mauerläufer 8b+ up Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
09/01/2019 - Climbing
Alexander Huber rope-solo first ascent of Mauerläufer 8b+ up Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
Climbing alone and ground-up, last spring German alpinist Alexander Huber made the first ascent of Mauerläufer (200m, 8b+) up Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.
Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati, Marco Zanone… climbing a muerte in Spain
08/01/2019 - Climbing
Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati, Marco Zanone… climbing a muerte in Spain
Roundup of recent redpoints at Margalef, Siurana and Perles in Spain by the Italian climbers Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati and Marco Zanone. In addition, noteworthy attempts at Saint Loup in Switzerland by Riccardo Scarian and Alessandro Zeni.
Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus
07/01/2019 - Alpinism
Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus
In October 2018 Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus made what is likely to be the first ascent of Sharphu II (6328m) in Nepal's Kangchenjunga region. The route climbs the mountain’s east face, was climbed alpine style over a six-day period...
Lorenzo Puri climbs 100 boulder problems 8A and harder
27/12/2018 - Interviews
Lorenzo Puri climbs 100 boulder problems 8A and harder
Interview with the 23-year-old Italian climber Lorenzo Puri, who recently climbed his 100th boulder problem graded 8A or harder.
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
24/12/2018 - Climbing
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
At Varazze (Italy) Giorgia Tesio climbed her first 8B boulder problem, Fortunadrago. Repeated on the same day by Simone Raina, this historic bloc was the first 8B in the area, freed by local Christian Core.
Gabriele Moroni is Off The Wagon in Valle Bavona
20/12/2018 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni is Off The Wagon in Valle Bavona
Italian rock climber Gabriele Moroni has repeated Off the Wagon, the famous boulder problem graded 8B+ in Val Bavona, Switzerland.
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
18/12/2018 - Alpinism
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
planetmountain.com has received and is publishing the press release of the Italian Mountain Guides regarding the Bearded Vulture in Valnontey (Cogne). Ice climbing is currently prohibited on the Money summit plateau and the adjacent icefalls: L’ago di Money, Di fianco...
Stefano Ghisolfi portrays his Perfecto Mundo at Margalef
14/12/2018 - Interviews
Stefano Ghisolfi portrays his Perfecto Mundo at Margalef
Interview with Stefano Ghisolfi after his repeat of Perfecto Mundo, the 9b+ at Margalef in Spain considered one of the most difficult sport climbs in the world. After Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma and Alexander Megos, the 25-year-old climber from Italy...
Teufelsgeige, new mixed climb in Langental, Dolomites
13/12/2018 - Alpinism
Teufelsgeige, new mixed climb in Langental, Dolomites
Ice climbing in the Dolomites: in Langental, Dolomites, Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Teufelsgeige (125m, WI5+, M6), a new mixed climb circa 30 meters to the right of the classic icefall Piovra.
Airport, possible new ice climb in Langental, Dolomites, by Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr
08/12/2018 - Alpinism
Airport, possible new ice climb in Langental, Dolomites, by Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr
In Langental (Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayr have climbed a possible new icefall they have called Airport. The line runs to the left of the classic Jumbo Jet drip and has been graded WI5+ M4...