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Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
22/11/2018 - Alpinism
Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
At the end of October 2018 Spanish mountaineers Pablo Ruix (Blín), Jesús Ibarz and Edu Recio established a new route up Langdung (6357 m) above the Rolwaling valley in Nepal. Ibarz reports about their Bihâna (6c+, 1500 m, ED+).
Connor Herson, 15, free climbs The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite
21/11/2018 - Climbing
Connor Herson, 15, free climbs The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite
Connor Herson has made a free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite. Climbing with his father Jim Herson over a three-day period, Connor is one of the few climbers to achieve this feat. Aged only 15, he is also the youngest person to free climb The Nose.
Carlo Traversi repeats Meltdown, the Beth Rodden masterpiece in Yosemite
09/11/2018 - Climbing
Carlo Traversi repeats Meltdown, the Beth Rodden masterpiece in Yosemite
American climber Carlo Traversi has made the first repeat of Meltdown (5.14c) in Yosemite, first ascended in 2008 by Beth Rodden.
Eiger: Roger Schaeli adds Airplane Mode to famous North Face
08/11/2018 - Alpinism
Eiger: Roger Schaeli adds Airplane Mode to famous North Face
Swiss alpinist Roger Schaeli has made the first ascent of Airplane Mode up the North Face of the Eiger.
Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven tick Tainted Love at Squamish in Canada
06/11/2018 - Climbing
Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven tick Tainted Love at Squamish in Canada
Austria's Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven from the Netherlands have both repeated Tainted Love, the 5.13d crack climb located on The Chief above Squamish, Canada freed by Hazel Findlay in 2017.
Barbara Zangerl repeats Sangre de Toro on Rote Wand in Austria
02/11/2018 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl repeats Sangre de Toro on Rote Wand in Austria
Austria’s Barbara Zangerl has made a rare repeat of the 8b+ multi-pitch climb Sangre de Toro up Rote Wand, Lechquellengebirge, freed by Alex Luger in 2014.
Liv Sansoz / Beyond climbing the 82 4000m peaks in the Alps
31/10/2018 - Interviews
Liv Sansoz / Beyond climbing the 82 4000m peaks in the Alps
Interview with French climber and alpinist Liv Sansoz after having completed all 82 alpine four-thousanders.
Grossglockner: new route climbed by Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger
22/10/2018 - Alpinism
Grossglockner: new route climbed by Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger
Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger have made the first ascent of The Power of Love, a new climb up the SE Face of Großglockner, the highest mountain in Austria.
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
17/10/2018 - Alpinism
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
Last Saturday a young man fell into a crevasse on the Col del Toula glacier (Mont Blanc). He is currently in hospital in Sallanches. The report and considerations of Ezio Marlier, a well-known alpinist and mountain guide from Valle d'Aosta who, together with Rifugio Torino hut warden and Mountain Guide...
Lhotse first ski descent carried out by Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison
06/10/2018 - Alpinism
Lhotse first ski descent carried out by Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison
The Americans Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison have carried out the first integral ski descent of Lhotse (8516m) in the Himalaya, skiing directly off the summit down to Camp 2 at 6400 meters.
Wenden: Matteo Della Bordella completes Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck climb
03/10/2018 - Alpinism
Wenden: Matteo Della Bordella completes Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck climb
On Reissend Nollen in Switzerland’s Wendenstöcke Matteo Della Bordella, accompanied by Silvan Schüpbach, has made the first free ascent of 'Polenta con farina degli altri', a multi-pitch alpine climb that was started by Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck. Della Bordella completed the route with Dimitri Anghileri and Paolo Spreafico.
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
24/09/2018 - Alpinism
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
Matterhorn climbing: on the mountain’s South Face the Italian François Cazzanelli has completed Diretta allo Scudo, a new rock climb he established with Roberto Ferraris, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Marco Farina.
Extreme trad climbing in Scotland: Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet repeat Rhapsody and Requiem
08/09/2018 - Climbing
Extreme trad climbing in Scotland: Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet repeat Rhapsody and Requiem
At Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, French climber Gérome Pouvreau has repeated Rhapsody E11, while Florence Pinet climbed Requiem E8 6b.
Robert Jasper completes Stonecircle on Greenland solo trip
31/08/2018 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper completes Stonecircle on Greenland solo trip
German rock climber Robert Jasper has returned from his solo expedition to Greenland after having made the first ascent of Stonecircle (7c, 450m) up Molar Spire above the Angmassalik-Tasilaq Fjord.
Hard trad repeats in Wales by James McHaffie, Angus Kille, Emma Twyford, Gérome Pouvreau, Florence Pinet
30/08/2018 - Climbing
Hard trad repeats in Wales by James McHaffie, Angus Kille, Emma Twyford, Gérome Pouvreau, Florence Pinet
Good weather has resulted in a series of hard trad repeats in Wales by the likes of James McHaffie, Angus Kille, Emma Twyford, Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet.
Peutérey Integral, the more interesting way to the top of Mont Blanc. By Jorg Verhoeven
29/08/2018 - Alpinism
Peutérey Integral, the more interesting way to the top of Mont Blanc. By Jorg Verhoeven
Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven talks about his ascent of the Peutérey Integral ridge on Mont Blanc, carried out with Martin Schidlowski from 13 - 15 July 2018.

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