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Beauty and the Beast in the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
14/02/2019 - Alpinism
Beauty and the Beast in the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
Winter climbing in the Dolomites: Simone Banal and Matteo Faletti report about their first ascents, on 8 and 9 January 2019 of 'La Bella' (265m AI5+, 90°) and ‘La Bestia' (250m, AI5+, M6) up Cima del Focobon, Pale di San Martino group, with Alessandro Beber, Marco Pellegrini and Marco Zanni.
Ezio Marlier adds two mixed climbs to Ollomont in Valle D'Aosta
12/02/2019 - Alpinism
Ezio Marlier adds two mixed climbs to Ollomont in Valle D'Aosta
At Ollomont, a splendid valley that hides some of the most mysterious icefalls in Itay’s Aosta Valley, Ezio Marlier has established two mixed climbs: Albice with Alberto Pierotti and Rikiteppa with Paolo Celesia. Marlier reports
Tigersoft, new winter climb in Brenta Dolomites
07/02/2019 - Alpinism
Tigersoft, new winter climb in Brenta Dolomites
Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: Simone Banal reports about the first ascent of Tigersoft, a new winter climb up the north face of Cima Brenta established with Fabrizio Dellai and Marco Zanni.
Peitlerkofel Dolomites / Simon Gietl, Mark Oberlechner add new winter climb
02/02/2019 - Alpinism
Peitlerkofel Dolomites / Simon Gietl, Mark Oberlechner add new winter climb
On 26 January 2019 Italian mountaineers Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner made the first ascent of Kalipe, a difficult new ice and mixed climb up the North Face of Peitlerkofel / Sass de Putia in the Dolomites.
Pelmoon, new mixed climb up Pelmo North Face in Dolomites
01/02/2019 - Alpinism
Pelmoon, new mixed climb up Pelmo North Face in Dolomites
Enrico Geremia reports about the first ascent of Pelmoon up the North Face of Mt. Pelmo in the Dolomites, established over two days with his brother Daniele Geremia and Fabrizio della Rossa.
Pioneering Patagonia: Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera climb Cerro Mangiafuoco
26/01/2019 - Alpinism
Pioneering Patagonia: Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera climb Cerro Mangiafuoco
In Patagonia the two Ragni di Lecco alpinists Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera have made the first ascent of Cerro Mangiafuoco. The new route is called L'appel du vide (6c M4 400m).
Arco Rock Star / The international climbing photography contest 2019
20/01/2019 - Competitions
Arco Rock Star / The international climbing photography contest 2019
From 10 to 12 May 2019 Arco, Italy will host the Adventure Awards Days and also the fourth international climbing photography contest Arco Rock Star. Professional and amateur photographers
Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
17/01/2019 - Alpinism
Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
Enrico Sasso reports about his 11 December 2018 solo first ascent of Rose (ED, 380m, WI4, M7) a new mixed route up the north face of Marguareis in the Ligurian Alps, Italy.
Agostino Gustin Gazzera, goodbye to the spirit of the mountaineer
17/01/2019 - Alpinism
Agostino Gustin Gazzera, goodbye to the spirit of the mountaineer
In memory of Agostino 'Gustin' Gazzera. Born in 1927, the Italian alpinist died on 11 January 2019 after demonstrating a lifetime’s love for the mountains.
Selvaggia Sorte, Cima Tosa and the 2013 first ascent by Tomas Franchini, Alessandro Lucchi
14/01/2019 - Alpinism
Selvaggia Sorte, Cima Tosa and the 2013 first ascent by Tomas Franchini, Alessandro Lucchi
Tomas Franchini recalls the first ascent of Selvaggia Sorte up Cima Tosa, 3133 m, in the Brenta Dolomites. After a first solo attempt, the mixed climb was established by Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013
Ines Papert, Luka Lindič score first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up Cima Tosa in Brenta Dolomites
11/01/2019 - Alpinism
Ines Papert, Luka Lindič score first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up Cima Tosa in Brenta Dolomites
Brenta Dolomites winter climbing: on 01/01/2018 alpinists Ines Papert and Luka Lindič have made the first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up the west face of Cima Tosa 3133m. The route was first completed by Tomas Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013.
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
10/01/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb CRAM (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.
Dolomites ice climbing / Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer swing up Sonnentanz in Langental
26/12/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites ice climbing / Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer swing up Sonnentanz in Langental
In Langental / Vallunga Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Sonnentanz (WI5+ M7+ 260m), a mixed climb above Val Gardena, Dolomites.
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
18/12/2018 - Alpinism
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
planetmountain.com has received and is publishing the press release of the Italian Mountain Guides regarding the Bearded Vulture in Valnontey (Cogne). Ice climbing is currently prohibited on the Money summit plateau and the adjacent icefalls: L’ago di Money, Di fianco alla leggenda, Repentance super, La volpe e l’uva, Monday Money,...
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
10/12/2018 - Alpinism
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
On Asta Nunaat in eastern Greenland Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari have made the first ascent of 'Gioielli Viventi', a new rock climb (320m, VI+/A1) established on 9 August 2018. This is likely to be only the second ascent of this mountain, after the first carried out in 2006 by...
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
07/12/2018 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
Climbing with Tommy Caldwell, on 19 November Sonnie Trotter made the first one day free ascent of a new all free variation to North America Wall / El Nino. The Canadian had discovered the 3-pitch variation, now called Pineapple Express, in 2017 with Alex Honnold.

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