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Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, Patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce
13/01/2016 - Alpinism
Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, Patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce
From 7 to 9 January 2016 Tomy Aguilo, Corrado Korra Pesce, Roland Striemitzer, Iñaki Coussirat and Carlitos Molina made the coveted second ascent of Psycho Vertical, the route first ascended in December 1986 up the southeast face of Torre Egger...
Gigi La Trottola, new Mulaz climb in the Dolomites by Baù, Migliorini, Zaccaria
12/01/2016 - Alpinism
Gigi La Trottola, new Mulaz climb in the Dolomites by Baù, Migliorini, Zaccaria
The report by Alessandro Baù who, in summer 2015 together with Claudio Migliorini and Giovanni Zaccaria, made the first ascent of Gigi La Trottola (IX, 450m) up the west face of Mulaz, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites.
Mur del Pisciadù, Dolomites icefall climbed by Baumgartner cousin
08/01/2016 - Alpinism
Mur del Pisciadù, Dolomites icefall climbed by Baumgartner cousin
On Mur del Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites) Manuel Baumgartner and Martin Baumgartner have climed Mur del Pisciadù Eisfall, an icefall with difficulties up to V+/M6/WI6.
Tancrède Melet, salut l'artiste
07/01/2016 - Alpinism
Tancrède Melet, salut l'artiste
Tancrède Melet, the French artist and acrobat perished on Tuesday 5 January 2016 at Diois in France.
Alex Luger unwraps The Gift on Drusenfluh in Rätikon
19/12/2015 - Climbing
Alex Luger unwraps The Gift on Drusenfluh in Rätikon
In August 2015 on the Drusenfluh the Rätikon massif in Austria Alexander Luger made the first ascent of The Gift (8c, 350m).
Never the Same, first free ascent on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar by Polo, Gorobey and Giuliberti
17/12/2015 - Climbing
Never the Same, first free ascent on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar by Polo, Gorobey and Giuliberti
Andrea Polo, Gabriele Gorobey and Carlo Giuliberti retrace this September’s first free ascent of Never the Same up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar. The three were accompanied by Marco Sterni who, in 1998, had made the first ascent of this multi-pitch...
Gabriele Moroni claims Maestri di Vita at Metanodotto
11/12/2015 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni claims Maestri di Vita at Metanodotto
Italian rock climber Gabriele Moroni has made the first ascent of Maestri di Vita, Life Masters, a difficult and dangerous trad climb at Metanodotto in the Aosta Valley.
Jimmy Chin: adventure in a photograph
11/12/2015 - Interviews
Jimmy Chin: adventure in a photograph
Interview with American alpinist, photographer and filmmaker Jimmy Chin. By Alessandra Raggio
Oh how I enjoy these things: alpinism that borders between reason and passion
09/12/2015 - Alpinism
Oh how I enjoy these things: alpinism that borders between reason and passion
On the climb Antonello Cardinale up Monte Disgrazia together with Ivo Ferrari: alpinism carefully balanced between reason and passion.
Climbing ban at Valnontey (Cogne) to protect bearded vulture
04/12/2015 - Climbing
Climbing ban at Valnontey (Cogne) to protect bearded vulture
The Gran Paradiso National Park has issued the following statement and climbing ban to protect the bearded vulture (Gypaetus barbatus L.) in Valnontey (Cogne), Italy.
Bansko Mountain Film Festival 2015 in Bulgaria
27/11/2015 - Events
Bansko Mountain Film Festival 2015 in Bulgaria
From 25 - 29 November 2015 Bansko in Bulgaria hosts the Bansko Mountain Film Festival 2015. More than 100 films from 5 continenti, special guests including Hansjörg Auer, Tom Ballard, Patrick Gabarrou, Tamara Lunger and Jean Troillet. Chris Bonington -...
UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
25/11/2015 - Climbing
UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the new document produced by the UIAA (the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) which outlines management strategies for individual climbers, bolters and manufacturers for anchor safety and bolting of sport climbs at seaside crags.
Cerro Kishtwar and Chomochior, new climbs in the Himalaya by Kennedy, Novak, Pellissier and Prezelj
24/11/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro Kishtwar and Chomochior, new climbs in the Himalaya by Kennedy, Novak, Pellissier and Prezelj
In October 2015 alpinists Hayden Kennedy (USA), Urban Novak (SLO), Manu Pellissier (FRA) and Marko Prezelj (SLO) made the first ascent of the East Face of Cerro Kishtwar (6173m), as well as climbing a new route up the South Ridge...
Talung NNW Spur climbed by Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin
23/11/2015 - Alpinism
Talung NNW Spur climbed by Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin
From 18 - 25 October 2015 the Ukrainian mountaineers Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin made the first ascent of the NNW spur of Talung (7349m) in the Kangchenjunga region of Nepal. The 2350m long new route has been called Daddy...
Klemen Premrl and Rahel Schelb climbing ice in the Iceland Trifecta
22/11/2015 - Alpinism
Klemen Premrl and Rahel Schelb climbing ice in the Iceland Trifecta
The film Climbing Ice - The Iceland Trifecta by Tim Kemple featuring Klemen Premrl and Rahel Schelb.
One Day as a Tiger. The story of Alex MacIntyre by John Porter
19/11/2015 - Alpinism
One Day as a Tiger. The story of Alex MacIntyre by John Porter
Mountaineering and literature: Italian alpinist Ivo Ferrari recommends the book "One Day as a Tiger. Alex MacIntyre and the birth of light and fast alpinism".

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