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Aguglia di Goloritzè, Sardinia: Sole Incantatore rebolted & restored to former glory
22/05/2020 - Climbing
Aguglia di Goloritzè, Sardinia: Sole Incantatore rebolted & restored to former glory
On the famous Aguglia di Goloritzè tower above Cala Goloritzè in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia has rebolted Sole Incantatore, the most repeated multi-pitch rock climb on the island. Oviglia himself established the route in 1995.
Mélissa Le Nevé makes first female ascent of Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's Frankenjura masterpiece
21/05/2020 - Climbing
Mélissa Le Nevé makes first female ascent of Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's Frankenjura masterpiece
French climber Melissa Le Nevé has made the first female ascent of Action Directe, the masterpiece established by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1991. This milestone 9a is one of the most famous and coveted sport climbs in the...
Paul Robinson climbs 1000 boulders 8A or harder
20/05/2020 - Interviews
Paul Robinson climbs 1000 boulders 8A or harder
Interview with American rock climber Paul Robinson who recently managed to climb his 1000th boulder problem graded 8A or harder.
Jakob Schubert, Jorg Verhoeven unleash their Zillertal creativity
19/05/2020 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert, Jorg Verhoeven unleash their Zillertal creativity
Two difficult new sport climbs in the Zillertal, Austria: Walk the Line 9a freed by Jakob Schubert at Monkey Island and Der Weg zur Quelle 8c+ freed by Jorg Verhoeven at Schwarze Wand.
Melissa Le Nevé commands 8c+ again with Bionic commando at Jesuswand in Germany
10/05/2020 - Climbing
Melissa Le Nevé commands 8c+ again with Bionic commando at Jesuswand in Germany
French rock climber Mélissa Le Nevé has repeated Bionic commando, an 8c+ sports climb at the crag Jesuswand in Germany.
Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
08/05/2020 - Interviews
Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
Interview with Alessandro Zeni who on 11/01/2020 at Saint Loup in Switzerland made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of the routes Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. With its suggested grade of 9b it checks in as one of...
Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell and the El Capitan Nose Speed record time-lapse
07/05/2020 - Climbing
Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell and the El Capitan Nose Speed record time-lapse
In June 2018 American rock climbers Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell set a new speed record on El Capitan in Yosemite, climbing The Nose in 1:58:07. Here’s the time-lapse of the entire ascent, condensed into just over two minutes.
Rock Master 2020: world's most classic climbing competition cancelled
07/05/2020 - Competitions
Rock Master 2020: world's most classic climbing competition cancelled
Published below is the press release of the Arco Climbing Club announcing that, due to the Covid-19 crisis, Rock Master 2020 has been cancelled. After having laid the foundation with SportRoccia in 1985 and 1986, this annual climbing competition in...
Alessandro Zeni deciphers Cryptography, 9b slab at Saint Loup in Switzerland
04/05/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni deciphers Cryptography, 9b slab at Saint Loup in Switzerland
On 11 January 2020 Italian climber Alessandro Zeni made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna at the crag Saint Loup in Switzerland. The 28-year-old has put forward the grade 9b, indicating it is...
Jakob Schubert repeats Weiße Rose, Alexander Huber Schleierwasserfall masterpiece
30/04/2020 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert repeats Weiße Rose, Alexander Huber Schleierwasserfall masterpiece
29-year-old Austrian climber Jakob Schubert has repeated Weiße Rose, the historic 9a established by Alexander Huber at the Schleierwasserfall in 1994 and otherwise repeated only by Adam Ondra.
A perfect Patagonia premiere. By Raphaela Haug
28/04/2020 - Alpinism
A perfect Patagonia premiere. By Raphaela Haug
German alpinist Raphaela Haug talks about her first trip to Patagonia with climbing partner Laura Tiefenthaler, during which they climbed Cerro Torre and, with Barbara Vigl, ascended Fitz Roy.
Matilda Söderlund sends her first 8B boulder, Armstrong assis at Nockeby in Sweden
27/04/2020 - Climbing
Matilda Söderlund sends her first 8B boulder, Armstrong assis at Nockeby in Sweden
Swedish climber Matilda Söderlund has climbed her first 8B boulder problem, Armstrong assis at Nockeby. She is one of the few female climbers to climb 8B boulder and a 9a sports climb.
Anthony Gullsten sends his Silver Lining, 8C highball in Finland

25/04/2020 - Climbing
Anthony Gullsten sends his Silver Lining, 8C highball in Finland

Finnish rock climber Anthony Gullsten has made the first ascent of Silver Lining, a long-standing project at Piilolampi in Finland. The highball boulder problem has been graded 8C
Multi-pitch trad climbing by Dave Longbottom
08/04/2020 - Climbing
Multi-pitch trad climbing by Dave Longbottom
The stop motion multi-pitch trad climbing film created by Dave Longbottom during the Coronavirus emergency.
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
06/04/2020 - Climbing
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
Spanish climber Iker Pou recalls his ascent 20 years ago of Action Directe, the Frankenjura masterpiece freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991. At the time, Pou’s ascent in autumn 2000 was only the second repeat after Alexander Adler and, nowadays...
Donnafugata on Torre Trieste, the film by Manrico dell'Agnola now online
06/04/2020 - Alpinism
Donnafugata on Torre Trieste, the film by Manrico dell'Agnola now online
Donnafugata is a huge multi-pitch rock climb established in 2004 by Christoph Hainz with Roger Schäli on the south face of the Torre Trieste. 750 meters of demanding and beautiful climbing up one of the symbols of legendary Mt. Civetta...