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Jorge Díaz-Rullo makes third ascent of Siurana's Sleeping Lion
26/02/2024 - Climbing
Jorge Díaz-Rullo makes third ascent of Siurana's Sleeping Lion
Spanish climber Jorge Díaz-Rullo has made the third ascent 'Sleeping Lion', the 9b at Siurana in Spain established by Chris Sharma in March 2023 and repeated in January 2024 by Alexander Megos.
Alex Megos interview after Siurana Sleeping Lion second ascent
06/01/2024 - Interviews
Alex Megos interview after Siurana Sleeping Lion second ascent
Interview with German climber Alexander Megos who on 4 January 2024 made the first repeat of Sleeping Lion at Siurana in Spain. Established by Chris Sharma in March 2023 and originally graded 9b+, Megos believes the route warrants 9b.
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
12/12/2023 - Alpinism
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
From 4 to 7 October 2023 Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of 'Oltre il Diau' on the southwest face of Antelao (Dolomites). Walpoth reports.
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
11/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
On Breithorn Centrale the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza have established the mixed climb 'Estate Indiana'. The 800m route breaches difficulties up to M8 AI5 R, summits Torre Maggiore and was climbed completely clean, i.e. using trad gear...
Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger
27/09/2023 - Interviews
Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger
Interview with Jakob Schubert after the first ascent of Project Big at Flatanger in Norway last week. The 32-year-old Austrian has now called the climb B.I.G. and suggested the grade 9c. This is currently the third route in the world...
Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert victorious in Villars once again
03/07/2023 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert victorious in Villars once again
The second stage of the 2023 Lead World Cup was won on Saturday night at Villars in Switzerland by Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert. This is the Slovenian’s 25th Lead World Cup gold medal, the Austrian's 20th.
Alaska Big Wall: possible new climb up Cemetery Spire (Kichatnas) by Silvia Loreggian, Stefano Ragazzo
19/06/2023 - Alpinism
Alaska Big Wall: possible new climb up Cemetery Spire (Kichatnas) by Silvia Loreggian, Stefano Ragazzo
Italian mountaineers Silvia Loreggian and Stefano Ragazzo have established what is likely to be a new climb on Cemetery Spire in the Cathedral Spires group of the Kichatna mountains in Alaska. Gold Rush (600m, 5.12a A1+) was climbed with one...
Sorato Anraku wins Boulder World Cup 2023 and final stage in Innsbruck
18/06/2023 - Competitions
Sorato Anraku wins Boulder World Cup 2023 and final stage in Innsbruck
The sixth and final Boulder World Cup concluded in Innsbruck, Austria on Friday 16 June and was won by Sorato Anraku from Japan ahead of teammate Meichi Narasaki and Sam Avezou of France. Sorato was also crowned overall Boulder World...
Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
24/05/2023 - Alpinism
Marek Holeček, Matěj Bernat complete big new route on Sura Peak in Nepal
Marek Holeček and Matěj Bernat have completed a big new climb on the NW Face of Sura Peak (6764m) in Nepal. The new route is called Simply Beautiful and was established alpine style by the Czech mountaineers.
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
08/03/2023 - Alpinism
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
Marcin Tomaszewski reports about the first ascent of FRAM, a technical 700m climb on Oqatssut Wall on the West coast of Greenland established from 10 - 24 February 2023 with Paweł Hałdaś. This is the first route on the mountain...
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
13/01/2023 - Interviews
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Will Bosi flashes The Dagger and dispatches Dreamtime in a day
08/12/2022 - Climbing
Will Bosi flashes The Dagger and dispatches Dreamtime in a day
On Tuesday 6 December 2022 at Cresciano in Switzerland William Bosi from Scotland flashed The Dagger 8B+ and sent Dreamtime 8C on his 4th attempt.
Watch Sean Villanueva complete his Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse in the Piolet d'Or 2022 video
22/11/2022 - Alpinism
Watch Sean Villanueva complete his Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse in the Piolet d'Or 2022 video
The video of Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll which was awarded a Piolets d'Or 2022: the Moonwalk Traverse, ie the solo traverse from south to north of the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia, carried out by the Belgian mountaineer from 5 -...
Ondrej Huserka, Wadim Jablonski establish Gangotri Gambling in Garhwal Himalaya
07/11/2022 - Alpinism
Ondrej Huserka, Wadim Jablonski establish Gangotri Gambling in Garhwal Himalaya
In mid-October Ondrej Huserka (Slovakia) and Wadim Jabłoński (Poland) completed the first ascent of Gangotri Gambling (6c+ M6 A0, 600m) on Phaalkan Meenaar tower above the Kedar Tal valley in the Indian Garhwal Himalayas. The peak is named in honour...
Ines Papert makes free ascent of her Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
04/11/2022 - Alpinism
Ines Papert makes free ascent of her Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
Ines Papert has made a free ascent of Wolke 7 on Hintere Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm in the Berchtesgaden Alps in Germany. The 350m 8a was established ground-up by the German climber in 2020 with her Slovenian husband Luka Lindič, who...
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar...

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