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Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
04/06/2024 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
Italian mountain guide Tomas Franchini has died while climbing Nevado Cashan in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. The 35-year-old was among the most talented of his generation.
Victor Varoshkin repeats Parallel World (D16) in DTS style in Dolomites, Italy
03/06/2024 - Alpinism
Victor Varoshkin repeats Parallel World (D16) in DTS style in Dolomites, Italy
On 01/05/2024 Victor Varoshkin, a mountain guide from Bulgaria, became the first person to repeat 'Parallel World' D16 in pure DTS style. The dry tooling climb is located at crag Tomorrow's World below Marmolada in the Italian Dolomites and was established in December 2018 by Polish mountaineer Dariusz Sokołowski.
Uncut: watch Stefano Ghisolfi make first ascent of Excalibur (9b+)
31/05/2024 - Climbing
Uncut: watch Stefano Ghisolfi make first ascent of Excalibur (9b+)
The uncut climbing video of Stefano Ghisolfi making the first ascent of 'Excalibur' (9b+) close to Arco, Italy. Graded 9b+, this checks in as one of the hardest sport climbs in the world
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
30/05/2024 - Climbing
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs in France.
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
29/05/2024 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
24/05/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
22/05/2024 - Climbing
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
A large portion of Sessi, one of the best crags in the entire Valle di Susa, has succumbed to rockfall. Carlo Giuliberti reports.
Patagonia's Sarmiento West summit climbed alpine style by Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret, Nicolas Secul
22/05/2024 - Alpinism
Patagonia's Sarmiento West summit climbed alpine style by Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret, Nicolas Secul
A three-man Chilean expedition comprised of Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret and Nicolas Secul Ojeda has successfully climbed Monte Sarmiento West summit in Patagonia. Climbed alpine style, this is only the 4th ascent of the remote peak and the first repeat of the original route up the mountain, established in 1986...
Watch Seb Bouin sending Bibliographie (9b+) at Céüse
21/05/2024 - Climbing
Watch Seb Bouin sending Bibliographie (9b+) at Céüse
The video of Sébastien Bouin and his repeat of 'Bibliographie', the famous 9b+ at Céüse in France he climbed on 3 June 2023.
Anak Verhoeven climbs Planta de Shiva for a second time, now sans kneepads
21/05/2024 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven climbs Planta de Shiva for a second time, now sans kneepads
At Villanueva del Rosario in Spain Anak Verhoven has climbed the 9b 'Planta de Shiva' for a second time in a week, this time without kneepads.
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70° ice/snow) is only the second ascent of the mountain. Following...
Jorg Verhoeven powers up Papichulo (9a+) at Oliana
19/05/2024 - Climbing
Jorg Verhoeven powers up Papichulo (9a+) at Oliana
38-year-old Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven has sent his first 9a+, 'Papichulo' at Oliana in Spain.
Great Trango Tower first ski descent by Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger, Jim Morrison
Great Trango Tower first ski descent by Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger, Jim Morrison
Alpinists Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger and Jim Morrison have made the first ski descent of Great Trango Tower (6286m) in Pakistan, skiing a steep, exposed and weaving line down the mountain's west face.
Cool new multipitch on Transatlantico in Italy's Sarca Valley
17/05/2024 - Climbing
Cool new multipitch on Transatlantico in Italy's Sarca Valley
The report by Daniele Bolognani who, with Silvia Bert made the ground-up first ascent of the multipitch rock climb 'Il sole e la luna' on Transatlantico in Valle del Sarca close to Arco, Italy.
Anak Verhoven sends Planta de Shiva (9b) at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain
16/05/2024 - Climbing
Anak Verhoven sends Planta de Shiva (9b) at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain
Yesterday at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain the 27-year-old Belgian climber Anak Verhoven sent Planta de Shiva, becoming only the fourth woman in the world to climb a 9b after Angela Eiter, Laura Rogora and Julia Chanourdie.