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Schirata, new route on Piz Ciavazes, Dolomites by Stuflesser and Riegler
20/04/2012 - Climbing
Schirata, new route on Piz Ciavazes, Dolomites by Stuflesser and Riegler
In winter 2011-12 Manuel Stuflesser and Martin Riegler established Schirata (XI-, 235m), a new route up Piz Ciavazes (Sella, Dolomites). The report by Stuflesser.
Piolets d'Or 2012, the videos of the ascents
29/03/2012 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2012, the videos of the ascents
The videos of the six ascents nominated for the Piolet d'Or 2012, awarded to the Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar for their ascent of K7 West (Pakistan) and the Americans Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson for their...
Piolets d'Or 2012: K7 West and Saser Kangri II
25/03/2012 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2012: K7 West and Saser Kangri II
The Piolet d'Or 2012 was awarded to two ascents, K7 West in Pakistan climbed by the Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar, and Saser Kangri II in India climbed by the Americans Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson. The...
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the winter traverse by Gietl and Schäli
22/03/2012 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the winter traverse by Gietl and Schäli
From 15 - 16 March 2012 Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli carried out the first winter traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. The report by Simon Gietl.
Cerro Autana, new route The Yopo Wall in Venezuela
10/03/2012 - Climbing
Cerro Autana, new route The Yopo Wall in Venezuela
From January 28 – February 5 2012 Leo Houlding, Jason Pickles, Sean Leary, Alastair Lee, Yupi Rangel, Alejandro Lamus established The Yopo Wall (400m, E6 6b, A1) up Cerro Autana in Venezuela.
Piolet d'Or 2012, the 6 nominations
14/02/2012 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2012, the 6 nominations
The XX Piolet d'Or will take place in Courmayeur (Italy) and Chamonix (France) from 21 - 24 March 2012. Here are the 6 nominations for the coveted golden ice axe, while Frenchman Robert Paragot will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award.
Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy
09/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy
With regards to the bolt chopping on Cerro Torre's Compressor route, we have received and published the views of Stefano Lovison, shared by numerous Italian alpinists.
Cerro Torre: the bolt chopping and its history as seen through the eyes of Mario Conti
03/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre: the bolt chopping and its history as seen through the eyes of Mario Conti
Italian alpinist Mario Conti shares his views about the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor route on the SE Face of Cerro Torre.
Hans Kammerlander climbs Mount Tyree and becomes first to climb Second Seven Summits
05/01/2012 - Alpinism
Hans Kammerlander climbs Mount Tyree and becomes first to climb Second Seven Summits
On 3 January Italian mountaineer Hans Kammerlander reached the summit of Mount Tyree (Antarctic). In doing so he has become the first person to climb the 7 second highest peaks on all seven continents.
Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Venas Azules on Torre Egger in Patagonia. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
04/01/2012 - Alpinism
Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Venas Azules on Torre Egger in Patagonia. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
Rolando Garibotti and the interview and meeting with Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, the Norwegian alpinist who in December 2011 together with Ole Lied established the route Venas Azules up the South Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia.
The Rise of the Machines, new route on Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia
27/12/2011 - Alpinism
The Rise of the Machines, new route on Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia
Jens Holsten, Joel Kauffman, Mikey Schafer and established Rise of the Machines (VI 5.11 A2+ 900m, 750 new) up the Southwest Face, Aguja Poincenot, Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia.
Aguja Guillaumet, Patagonia
15/12/2011 - Alpinism
Aguja Guillaumet, Patagonia
The North Ridge of Aguja Guillaumet (2579m) in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia was first climbed in 1981 by the Argentines Eduardo Brenner and Eduardo Moschioni. Damiano Barabino, Sergio De Leo and Marcello Sanguineti repeated the route on 8...
Corrado 'Korra' Pesce, from No Siesta to Cerro Torre. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
13/12/2011 - Alpinism
Corrado 'Korra' Pesce, from No Siesta to Cerro Torre. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
From the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses to Patagonia. Corrado "Korra" Pesce's alpine journey, introduced by Rolando Garibotti in this meeting and interview - from one alpinist to another - in El Chalten
Supercanaleta Fitz Roy, Patagonia
09/12/2011 - Alpinism
Supercanaleta Fitz Roy, Patagonia
Some climbs seem timeless due to their importance in the history of alpinism. One of these is certainly Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia. The story by Damiano Barabino, Sergio De Leo, Marcello Sanguineti.
Gojung details, Mick Fowler interview
15/11/2011 - Alpinism
Gojung details, Mick Fowler interview
An interview with British mountaineer Mick Fowler after the first ascent of Gojung (6310m) in Nepal, Himalaya together with Dave Turnbull.
Cerro Torre West Face, the 2011 Patagonia season has begun
13/11/2011 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre west face, the 2011 Patagonia season has begun
The 2011 "andesimo" season in Patagonia has begun in earnest with a great ascent of the rarely repeated west face of Cerro Torre at the hands of Michael Lerjen-Demjen from Zermatt and Korra Pesce from Chamonix who chose to...

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