The news
28/04/2016 - Alpinism
Haywire, the short film by Cheyne Lempe big wall climbing on Baffin Island Ben Lepesant reviews Haywire, the short film shot and directed by American alpinist Cheyne Lempe who in May 2015, together with Dave Allfrey, forged a worrying new climb called Deconstructing Jenga (VI, 5.9+, A3+) up Great Cross Pillar on Baffin Island, Canada.
28/04/2016 - Climbing
Kajsa Rosén and her perfect climbing state of mind at Oliana Interview with 19-year-old Swedish climber Kajsa Rosén who, with T-1 Full equipe at Oliana in Spain at the end of March, carried out one of the most difficult female onsights of all times.
27/04/2016 - Climbing
Climbing video: Adam Ondra attempting Stoking the Fire at Santa Linya in Spain A video documenting Adam Ondra and his attempts on Stoking the Fire, a 9b sports climb freed by Chris Sharma at Santa Linya in Spain.
27/04/2016 - Alpinism
Bolivian Cholitas climb the Andes to conquer emancipation A group of Bolivian women is currently attempting to to climb eight mountains over 6000m in the Andes. Aged up to 50 and wearing their traditional dress, for years they have worked as cooks or porters for trekking and mountaineering expeditions.
26/04/2016 - Climbing
Jerry Moffatt: from the Campus Board to early sports climbing training Video interview with British rock climber Jerry Moffatt, one of the driving forces in sports climbing and bouldering during the 1980's and 1990’s. The interview also features early footage of Moffatt training together with Ben Moon in their Sheffield cellar.
25/04/2016 - Alpinism
Riders on the Storm Torres del Paine, Mayan Smith-Gobat and Ines Papert in Patagonia videos Four videos documenting the repeat of Riders on the Storm on the Central Tower of the Torres del Paine in Patagonia, carried out by Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ines Papert and accompanied by Thomas Senf.
24/04/2016 - Competitions
Shauna Coxsey and Rustam Gelmanov win Kazo stage of Bouldering World Cup 2016 British climber Shauna Coxsey and Russia’s Rustam Gelmanov have won the second stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2016, held yesterday and today at Kazo in Japan. Italy’s Michael Piccolruaz places a sensational second.
24/04/2016 - Climbing
Bouldering World Cup 2016: Kazo live The second stage of the IFSC Boulder World Cup 2016 is currently taking place in Kazo, Japan.
23/04/2016 - Competitions
Patrouille des Glaciers cancelled, Michele Boscacci and Laetitia Roux win ski mountaineering World Cup 2016 Due to bad weather the Patrouille des Glaciers 2016 has been cancelled. The famous international ski mountaineering competition from Zermatt to Verbier. The ski mountaineering World Cup has been won by Italy’s Michele Boscacci and France’s Laetitia Roux.
23/04/2016 - Alpinism
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised After a few nights spent at about 5700m, the Italian alpinists Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli have concluded their acclimatization prior to attempting the unclimbed north face of Chamlang Peak (7319 m), Nepal. Conditions are not ideal conditions and the reconnaissance phase is longer than expected.
22/04/2016 - Alpinism
Half Dome 1977 and the pioneering flight in Yosemite The short film by Carl Boenish that documents the flight carried out by Rich Piccirilli, Jim Hanbury and Brian Johnson from Half Dome (Yosemite) that marked a pivotal moment in the history of BASE jumping.
21/04/2016 - Alpinism
Alpinism: new climb on Großglockner in Austria On 05/04/2016 the Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of Südwandwächter (M5, WI4+, 600m), a new mixed climb up the South Face of Grossglockner (3798m) in Austria.
20/04/2016 - Competitions
Patrouille des Glaciers 2016, the race is on from Zermatt to Verbier Last night the classic ski mountaineering competition Patrouille des Glaciers 2016 got underway. Staged once every two years, 4700 athletes have registered for the 20th edition.
20/04/2016 - Climbing
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley The report by Marco Bozzetta who, together with Francesco Salvaterra, made the first ascent of Pace in Siria (7a+, 6c+ obligatory, 230m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the SE Face of Dain di Pietramurata, Valle del Sarca, Italy.
20/04/2016 - Climbing
Delta Minox in Val Masino climbed by Federica Mingolla, Luca Schiera and Andrea Gaddi Federica Mingolla reports of her 20/03/2016 ascent, together with Andrea Gaddi and Luca Schiera, of the classic multi-pitch rock climb Delta Minox up Pilastro del Scingino, Cavalcorto, Val Masino, Italy, established on 4 September 1988 by Tarcisio Fazzini, Livio Gianola, Sabina Gianola and Norberto Riva.
19/04/2016 - Book-press
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena A book for dreamers: Savage arena by Joe Tasker. A story about a form of alpinism that has perhaps disappeared but which has certainly left its mark in history. The book review by Ivo Ferrari.
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