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Hellzapoppin', a journey through the history of climbing Ivo Ferrari
08/01/2013 - Climbing
Hellzapoppin', a journey through the history of climbing Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari and climbing trip back in time up Hellzapoppin', one of the most beautiful climbs in the Mediterranean, first ascended in 1977 by Gianni Battimelli, Fabrizio Antonioli, Paul Bellotti, Giorgio Mallucci and Cristiano Delisi.
Schwarzer Engel, extreme new Maltatal icefall
03/01/2013 - Alpinism
Schwarzer Engel, extreme new Maltatal icefall
On 15/12/2012 Markus Pucher and Alois Krenn made the first ascent of the extremely difficult new icefall Schwarzer Engel (WI7+, M7, E6, 160m) in the Maltatal, Austria.
Alpinism, fabulous and silent, at Castello Provenzale
24/12/2012 - Alpinism
Alpinism, fabulous and silent, at Castello Provenzale
On 23 December Ivo Ferrari and Dario Spreafico repeated Lo Spigolo Maria Grazia on the East Face of Castello Provenzale (Valle Maira, Hautes Alpes). The report Ivo Ferrari.
The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.
New winter routes up Pizzo del Becco
19/12/2012 - Alpinism
New winter routes up Pizzo del Becco
On 8 and 9 December 2012 three new routes were established up the North Face of Piz Spallone Pizzo del Becco (Orobie, Alta Val Brembana, BG); Fò di B.A.L (250m, III - WI 2 - M5), Beccati questa Goulotte (250m, II - WI 2 - M4) and Bo (250m, II...
Greenland, new rock climb La chute de rein
17/12/2012 - Alpinism
Greenland, new rock climb La chute de rein
In summer 2012 a group of young Swiss climbers established La chute de rein (600m, 6c, A1 pendulum) on peak Whale Top (1303m) in Southern Greenland.
I Tre Giganti, the Three Giants by Ermanno Salvaterra on Crozzon di Brenta
07/12/2012 - Alpinism
I Tre Giganti, the Three Giants by Ermanno Salvaterra on Crozzon di Brenta
I Tre Giganti - the Three Giants - the route climbed by Ermanno Salvaterra, Matteo "Will" Bertolotti, Paolo Grisa and Chicca Boselli up the NE Face of Crozzon di Brenta (3118m, Brenta Dolomites. The story by Ermanno Salvaterra.
Matterhorn, Via Casarotto - Grassi on Pic Tyndall climbed by Farina, Cazzanelli and Ferraris
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Matterhorn, Via Casarotto - Grassi on Pic Tyndall climbed by Farina, Cazzanelli and Ferraris
On 17-18/11/2012 Marco Farina, François Cazzanelli and Roby Ferraris made a fast and great repeat of the route first ascended by Renato Casarotto and Gian Carlo Grassi in 1983 up the South Face of the Matterhorn which exits onto Pic Tyndall (ED / 1300mt ). This is likely to be...
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
In July and August 2012 Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori returned to Turkey's Aladaglar massif where they established and freed "Nessuno" (470m, 8a+ max, 7b obligatory) up the North Face of Cima Vay Vay and "Radio Eksen" (200m, 7c max, 7a+ obligatory) in the Cimbar Valley.
Croz del Rifugio, new routes and reequipping in the Brenta Dolomites
21/11/2012 - Alpinism
Croz del Rifugio, new routes and reequipping in the Brenta Dolomites
On the North Face of Croz del Rifugio (Brenta Dolomites) Italian Mountain Guide Franco Nicolini has put up two new routes and reequipped the belays of his Via Elena (1988) as well as Via Bregtie, first climbed in 1963 by Cesare Maestri and Ernesto Carafoli.
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
20/11/2012 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).
Mick Fowler and the ascent of Prow of Shiva
16/11/2012 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and the ascent of Prow of Shiva
A short interview with British mountaineer Mick Fowler who, together with Paul Ramsden, climbed the stunning new route Prow of Shiva ED+ up Mt. Shiva (6,142m), India.
Simnang Himal first ascent by Ukrainian expedition
12/11/2012 - Alpinism
Simnang Himal first ascent by Ukrainian expedition
In October 2012 Ukrainian alpinists Serhiy Bublik and Mykola Shymko succeeded in the first ascent of Simnang Himal (also referred to as peak P2), the 6251m high mountain located in the Manaslu region of the Himalaya.
New Swiss rock climbs in Greenland's Renland
29/10/2012 - Alpinism
New Swiss rock climbs in Greenland's Renland
This summer a successful Swiss expedition comprised of Jacksch, Ledergerber, Schüpbach and Reist established four long new routes in Renland, Greenland.
Roland Hemetzberger frees Karlspitze Südwand
23/10/2012 - Climbing
Roland Hemetzberger frees Karlspitze Südwand
On 22/10/12 Roland Hemetzberger made the first free ascent of Südwand (150m, 10-) up Karlspitze, Wilder Kaiser, Austria.
L’orologio senza tempo, Punta Figari and Giova Massari's 50th birthday
09/10/2012 - Climbing
L’orologio senza tempo, Punta Figari and Giova Massari's 50th birthday
Last August Giovannino Massari and Paolo Seimandi re-equipped L'orologio senza tempo, the historic rock climb established in 1982 by Massari and Andrea Parodi up the East Face of Punta Figari (Gruppo Castello - Provenzale). The report by Paolo Seimandi.