625 News found

Maurizio Oviglia and Gianluca Piras have reequipped the climb Easy Gymopedie and the abseils down the route Sole Incantatore on Aguglia of Goloritzé (Sardinia). The report and video by Maurizio Oviglia about their restyling of one of the most beautiful towers in Italy and further afield. This monolith was climbed...

On Norway's Senja island Ines Papert has made the first ascent of Finnmannen (M9+ WI7, 400m) together with Bent Vidar Eilertsen.

Interview with Albert Leichtfried after the first ascent together with Benedikt Purner of Senza piombo, the new mixed climb established in Vallunga with difficulties up to M10 WI 5 protected only with trad gear and without bolts and pegs.

Andy Kirkpatrick, Tormod Granheim and Aleksander Gamme have made a winter ascent of the route Suser Gjennom Harryland on Trollveggen (Troll Wall) in Norway.

The Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of Senza piombo in Val Lunga (Dolomites); a difficult mixed route protected only with trad gear and presumably the first M10 in the world established in this clean style.

On 26/01/2013 the Slovenians Dejan Koren and Boötjan Mikuû made the first ascent of Gladiator (205 m, IV, M7-, WI6, X, R) a difficult new icefall on Cima delle Cenge, Valle di Riofreddo (Tarvisio, Tridente area), Italy.

Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Jerzu, one of the most beautiful and popular climbing areas in Sardinia.

On 8, 9 and 10 January 2013, Giorgio Travaglia and Francesco Milani made the first wintere ascent - with two bivouacs - of "Pilastro Magno" (950m, VI), the route established in summer 1993 by Ivo Rabanser and Marco Furlani up the NE Face of Sassolungo (Dolomites).

The 12-13/1/2013 Enrico Bonino, Giancarlo Bazzocchi, Elio Bonfanti and Andrea Fazzari made the first ascent of "Dio li Fa... e poi li accoppia" 60m, M5 WI5 5c + RX) a new mixed climb in Valnontey (Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy).

On 7 and 8 January 2013 the Catores Mountain Guides Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder made the first ascent of "La Legrima" (WI6 M6 V+, two sections of A0), the great ice and mixed line up the North Face of the Sassolungo (Dolomites) long pursued by numerous ice climbers.

On 30/12/2012 Andrea Di Donato, Andrea Di Pascasio and Lorenzo Angelozzi attempted the first winter ascent of Orient Express, but were stopped by Angelozzi's massive fall. Fortunately there were no serious consequences. Andrea Di Pascasio recounts the story.

On 27/12/2012 David Lama and Peter Ortner made the first ascent of Sprindrift (600m, VIII-, M6, WI VI, A1) up the North Face of Laserz, Lienzer Dolomites, Austria.

On 6-7 January 2013 Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Via Valeria (270m, VI ice, M4+, VI+ rock) up the west face of Crozzon di Brenta, Dolomites. The route has been dedicated to Valeria Brunelli.

Ivo Ferrari and climbing trip back in time up Hellzapoppin', one of the most beautiful climbs in the Mediterranean, first ascended in 1977 by Gianni Battimelli, Fabrizio Antonioli, Paul Bellotti, Giorgio Mallucci and Cristiano Delisi.

On 15/12/2012 Markus Pucher and Alois Krenn made the first ascent of the extremely difficult new icefall Schwarzer Engel (WI7+, M7, E6, 160m) in the Maltatal, Austria.

On 23 December Ivo Ferrari and Dario Spreafico repeated Lo Spigolo Maria Grazia on the East Face of Castello Provenzale (Valle Maira, Hautes Alpes). The report Ivo Ferrari.