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Val Chiavenna: climbing at Mezzera, Scilano and Caprone
10/11/2014 - Climbing
Val Chiavenna: climbing at Mezzera, Scilano and Caprone
The crags Mezzera, Scilano and Caprone in Val Chiavenna, Italy, introduced by Enrico Baistrocchi and Matteo Deghi, with the photos by Massimo Malpezzi. In memory of Davide Grassi.
Combe Maudite, two new ice and mixed climbs by Enrico Bonino & Co
30/10/2014 - Alpinism
Combe Maudite, two new ice and mixed climbs by Enrico Bonino & Co
On Combe Maudite, in the mont blanc massif, two new ice and mixed routes have been climbed, Saumons et Glacons (M5+ WI5 R, 500m, Enrico Bonino, Luca Breveglieri, Olivier Colaye) and An... ice surprise (M7, W15, A1+, III, 350m Enrico Bonino, Giulia Venturelli). Report by Enrico Bonino.
Cordillera Huayhuash, new routes in Peru for Carlo Cosi and Davide Cassol
28/10/2014 - Alpinism
Cordillera Huayhuash, new routes in Peru for Carlo Cosi and Davide Cassol
Report by Carlo Cosi on three first ascents in the Cordillera Huayhuash in Peru: Laurpaq and La zuppa di Pio on the untouched NW face of Jurauraju 5330m and La Siesta del Bodacious on the SW face of Jurau.
Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion? The conference at the Brixen IMS
17/10/2014 - Alpinism
Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion? The conference at the Brixen IMS
On Saturday 18 October 18 the International Mountain Summit at Brixen will hold the conference "Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion?" Organised by the Master in Mountain Medicine and its director Dr. Luigi Festi, this conference will attempt to provide a definition to doping in the mountains and set...
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
02/10/2014 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
On 26 and 27 September 2014 Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias repeated Directe de l'Amitie on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (mont blanc). A route first climbed in winter 1974 by Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and Yannick Seigneur, described by Corrado Korra Pesce as 'the most...
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
01/10/2014 - Alpinism
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
On 16/09/2014, the Mayor of Courmayeur prohibited access to the path that leads to Rifugio Boccalatte and also the areas below the Whymper serac on the Grandes Jorasses. Excessive zeal on behalf of the town council, or was the serac really in danger of collapsing? Between 20 and 22 September,...
Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route
30/09/2014 - Alpinism
Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route
The short report by South Tyrolean alpinist Philipp Angelo who on 15 September2014 carried out what is likely to be the second solo ascent of the Polish route up the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (mont blanc).
Curiosity, with Rory Bosio, Timothy Olson and Hal Koerner
28/09/2014 - Alpinism
Curiosity, with Rory Bosio, Timothy Olson and Hal Koerner
The video Curiosity by The North Face featuring the athletes Rory Bosio, Timothy Olson and Hal Koerner and their quest to run the Ultra-Trail du mont blanc 2014.
Greenland new rock climbs by Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger
15/09/2014 - Alpinism
Greenland new rock climbs by Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger
This summer Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger made the first ascent of the Austrian-Swiss-Route up the SW Face of Mount Kirken, NE Greenland.
Corrado Pesce and his Polish route solo up Grandes Jorasses
09/09/2014 - Alpinism
Corrado Pesce and his Polish route solo up Grandes Jorasses
On Monday 8 September the Italian alpinist Corrado "Korra" Pesce made a fast solo ascent of the Polish route up Pointe Helene on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (mont blanc).
Vanessa François bivouacs on the Grande Gendarme, Arête des Cosmiques
04/09/2014 - Alpinism
Vanessa François bivouacs on the Grande Gendarme, Arête des Cosmiques
From 2 - 3 September 2014 disabled alpinist Vanessa François spent the night in a portaledge on the Grande Gendarme of Arête des Cosmiques (mont blanc) together with Liv Sansoz.
François D'Haene and Rory Bosio win the The North Face Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc 2014
02/09/2014 - Competitions
François D'Haene and Rory Bosio win the The North Face Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc 2014
On Saturday 30 August 2014 Frenchman François D'Haene and Rory Bosio from America won the The North Face Ultra Trail du mont blanc 2014. For both athletes this is the second victory of this long and difficult trail running competition around mont blanc.
Mont Blanc, six alpinists perish on Aiguille d'Argentiere
14/08/2014 - Alpinism
mont blanc, six alpinists perish on Aiguille d'Argentiere
On 13/08/2014 six alpinists were found dead on Aiguille d'Argentiere in the mont blanc massif.
Astro Zap on Trident du Tacul by Bassanini and Camurri
14/08/2014 - Alpinism
Astro Zap on Trident du Tacul by Bassanini and Camurri
On 4/09/2013 Giovani Bassanini and Lamberto Camurri made the first ascent of Astro Zap (7a), a line that climbs the crack avoided by the Via Diretta Bonatti, first climbed by Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli in 1963 up Le Trident du Tacul in the mont blanc massif.
Then and now: the Lecco route on Grand Capucin
03/08/2014 - Alpinism
Then and now: the Lecco route on Grand Capucin
Matteo Della Bordella and Arianna Colliard and the ascent of the Lecco route up the SE Face of Grand Capucin, put up in 1968 by the Ragni di Lecco climbers Aldo Anghileri, Guerino Cariboni, Casimiro Ferrari, Carlo Mauri and Pino Negri. A story to remember a great route up the...
Dent du Géant, new climb by Baud, Bouillanne and Charlet
01/08/2014 - Alpinism
Dent du Géant, new climb by Baud, Bouillanne and Charlet
On 29 June the French alpinists Christopher Baud, Brice Bouillanne and Jonathan Charlet made the first ascent of 'Cœurs de géant' (560m, ED M5+), a new route up the Dent du Géant, mont blanc massif.