Pyramide du Tacul, new mixed climb by Bracey and Helliker

Chamonix-based British alpinists Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey continue to forage for possible new routes in the Mont Blanc massif. After two new lines on the Tour Ronde in December 2014 and January 2015, on the 18th of February the duo added what is thought to be a new mixed route to the NE face of the Pyramide du Tacul.

The ephemeral route shares the first pitch of the summer rock route Le ronfleur paradoxal and then follows a natural winter line to join the East Ridge all the way to the summit. The descent was made down the other side via 3 abseils to the glacier, from where they skied the Vallee Blanche back down to Chamonix.

The new 250m route is called Mastabas, climbs thin icy runnels linked by hard steep mixed sections with difficulties up to M7 and gives what is described as "excellent sustained climbing." The line has been confirmed by local expert François Damilano and after the ascent the two climbers commented "With its easy ski access, this route should give another option to some of the other popular over crowded routes in the area when in winter condition."

Thanks
Matt Helliker: Patagonia, Black Diamond, Osprey Packs, S.C.A.R.P.A., Adidas Eyewear, Edelweiss ropes, MaxiNutrition.
Jon Bracey: Patagonia, Black Diamond, Osprey Packs, S.C.A.R.P.A., Adidas Eyewear, Edelweiss ropes.