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Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
03/03/2010 - Climbing
Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
In January 2010 the Italians Alessandro Baù and Matteo Della Bordella carried out the first ascent of 'Fiducia al sentiero' (500m, 5.12c/7b+ max – 5.11d/7a obl.) on the South Face of Tatewari in the La Huasteca Natural Park, Monterrey, Mexico.
Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
23/02/2010 - Competitions
Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
The International Olympic Committee (IOC) has ratified and recognised the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) during its Plenary Session at Vancouver, canada. As the President of the IFSC Marco Scolaris explains, this is a fundamental step for sport climbing...
Little Nipper, new winter route in Scotland for Ian Parnell and Ines Papert
22/02/2010 - Alpinism
Little Nipper, new winter route in Scotland for Ian Parnell and Ines Papert
On 19/02/2010 Ines Papert and Ian Parnell made the first ascent of Little Nipper (60m, VI,8) a short new route up the Far East Wall of Beinn Eighe, Scotland.
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, Canada
02/02/2010 - Alpinism
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, canada
Will Gadd from canada teamed up with Tim Emmett from Britain to carry out the first ascent of Spray On, a 30m ice climb at the Helmcken Falls they tentatively graded WI10.
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
20/01/2010 - Alpinism
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
On 4 Janaury 2010 the Austrian climbers Rudolf Hauser, Alexander Holleis and Rupert Huber carried out the first integral ascen of Gamsstubenfall (800m, WI7), one of the last great icefalls in the Gasteinertal, Austria. On 12 January Hauser climbed...
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
17/01/2010 - Events
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
The fifteenth international Ice Festival took place in Ouray (USA) a fortnight ago. The event attracted thousands of ice climbers and the competition was won by Josh Wharton (USA) and Ines Papert (GER). Will Gadd from canada climbed almost 8000m...
Krakow Mountain Festival
04/01/2010 - Events
Krakow Mountain Festival
Dorota Dubicka takes a look at the event which took place in Poland at the strat of December and attracted over 5000 visitors.
Guy Lacelle
14/12/2009 - Alpinism
Guy Lacelle
British alpinist and journalist Ian Parnell remembers Guy Lacelle from canada, one of the world's leading ice climbers who died in an avalanche last Thursday in Hyalite Canyon, Montana, canada.
Sonnie Trotter, first trad ascent of Prosthetics at Mill Creek, Utah
28/11/2009 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter, first trad ascent of Prosthetics at Mill Creek, Utah
Sonnie Trotter from canada has made the first retro-trad ascent of Prosthetics 5.13d (r/x) at Mill Creek, Utah, USA.
Alan Watts climbing interview
26/11/2009 - Climbing
Alan Watts climbing interview
Interview with Alan Watts, the climber who played a leading role during the 1980's in developing Smith Rock into one of the most famous crags in the USA and the world.
Jasemba SSE Face success for Simon & Samuel Anthamatten and Michi Lerjen
24/11/2009 - Alpinism
Jasemba SSE Face success for Simon & Samuel Anthamatten and Michi Lerjen
Interview with Samuel Anthamatten after the first ascent of the South-South-East Face of Jasemba, Nepal via their Hook or Crook (VI, 1550m, 90°, M5.
Martin and Florian Riegler, Flying Penguin and the Rocky Mountains
06/10/2009 - Alpinism
Martin and Florian Riegler, Flying Penguin and the Rocky Mountains
Interview with Martin and Florian Riegler after their climbing trips to the Bugaboos, canada, where they carried out the first ascent of "The flying penguin" (300m, 5.12b)on the South Face of Pigeon Feathers.
Yuji Hirayama, Cobra Crack and back to his roots
29/09/2009 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama, Cobra Crack and back to his roots
Interview with Japanese climber Yuji Hirayama, who on 15/09/2009 made the sixth ascent of Cobra Crack at Squamish, canada.
Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada climbs for Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer
14/09/2009 - Climbing
Cirque of the Unclimbables, canada climbs for Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer
In August Ines Papert from Germany and Lisi Steurer from Austria made the first ascent of "Power of Silence" 400m, 5.13a on the Middle Huey Spire in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, canada.
Asgard Baffin Island expedition success for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
02/09/2009 - Alpinism
Asgard Baffin Island expedition success for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Stéphane Hanssens and Olivier Favresse have recently returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where they carried out the first ascents of 3 different routes and attempted to free climb the Bavarian route on the South...
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and...

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