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Marmolada South Face climbing ban extended until 22 July 2016
15/07/2016 - Alpinism
Marmolada south face climbing ban extended until 22 July 2016
On 14/07/2016 the Italian municipality of Rocca Pietore (Bl) issued Ordinance 31 extending the climbing ban on the south face of the Marmolada from 16 - 22 July 2016 due to works being carried out on the cable car station. The ban includes the face perpendicular to the top station...
Torre del Formenton, new rock climb at Passo di San Pellegrino, Dolomites
29/06/2016 - Alpinism
Torre del Formenton, new rock climb at Passo di San Pellegrino, Dolomites
Marco Bozzetta introduces Occhi d’acqua (7b, 210m), a new multi-pitch rock climb established ground-up in September 2015 together with Costante Carpella up the south face of Torre del Formenton, Val Fredda, Dolomiti. Dolomites.
Marmolada South Face: climbing banned on Via dell’Ideale only
21/06/2016 - Alpinism
Marmolada south face: climbing banned on Via dell’Ideale only
Following legislation issued earlier today by the Municipality of Rocca Pietore, it is forbidden to climb the route Via dell’Ideale up Punta Rocca (Punta d'Ombretta), Marmolada south face, Dolomites from 21 June to 15 July 2016.
Pedra Longa, its climbing and the video Luce senza memoria
08/06/2016 - Climbing
Pedra Longa, its climbing and the video Luce senza memoria
Climbing video: Maurizio Oviglia introduces his video of Luce senza memoria, the long traverse around Pedra Longa in Sardinia, first climbed in 1981 by Marco Bernardi and Alessandro Gogna.
Colin Haley makes first solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska
07/06/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley makes first solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley has made the first solo ascent the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. While the ascent required just 12 hours 29 minutes from the Bergschrund to the summit, the descent proved a harrowing ordeal that turned out to be one of the most...
Traverso al Cielo, Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz add new rock climb up Peitlerkofel in the Dolomites
25/05/2016 - Climbing
Traverso al Cielo, Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz add new rock climb up Peitlerkofel in the Dolomites
In autumn 2015 the two mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of Traverso al Cielo, a new multi-pitch climb up the south face of Peitlerkofel, Dolomites. Simon Kehrer reports.
Alex Lowe and David Bridges: bodies found in the Himalaya, 16 years after struck by avalanche
02/05/2016 - Alpinism
Alex Lowe and David Bridges: bodies found in the Himalaya, 16 years after struck by avalanche
The bodies of Alex Lowe, one of the strongest American mountaineers of all time, and David Bridges, have been discovered in the Himalaya 16 years after having been swept away by an avalanche while climbing Shishapangma (8027m), Tibet. Their remains were discovered by Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck and his German...
Alpinism: new climb on Großglockner in Austria
21/04/2016 - Alpinism
Alpinism: new climb on Großglockner in Austria
On 05/04/2016 the Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of Südwandwächter (M5, WI4+, 600m), a new mixed climb up the south face of Grossglockner (3798m) in Austria.
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
13/04/2016 - Climbing
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
Swiss climber Silvan Schüpbach has made the first free ascent of Ultimo Sogno, a tough climb up the rugged Parete d'Osogna face high up in Switzerland’s Ticino region.
Kalymnos sports climbing rebolting project completed in Greece
12/04/2016 - Climbing
Kalymnos sports climbing rebolting project completed in Greece
The rebolting project of a massive number of sport climbs on the Greek islands of Kalymnos and Telendos has been completed.
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick...
Langkofeleck: first ski descent in the Dolomites by Hermann Comploj
Langkofeleck: first ski descent in the Dolomites by Hermann Comploj
On 20/039/2016 Hermann Comploj carried out a new first ski descent in the Dolomites, by skiing a line alone down the SW Face of Langkofeleck, also referred to as Spallone Sassolungo 3081m.
Grande Rocheuse Voie Originale, first ski and snowboard descent by Capozzi, Galli, Herry and Trento
Grande Rocheuse Voie Originale, first ski and snowboard descent by Capozzi, Galli, Herry and Trento
Julien Herry reports about the first ski and snowboard descent of the Voie Originale down the south face of Grande Rocheuse (4102m) in the Mont Blanc massif, carried out together with Davide Capozzi, Lambert Galli and Denis Trento.
Fitz Roy, Patagonia: new climb by Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smoleň
11/03/2016 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, Patagonia: new climb by Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smoleň
On 30-31/01/2016 the Slovak alpinists Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smolen made the first ascent of Asado (665m, 7a+, M8, A2), a new climb up the south face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Chad Climbing Expedition 2015
09/03/2016 - Climbing
Chad Climbing Expedition 2015
Alessandro Beber retraces the climbing expedition to the Republic of Chad, carried out toward the end of 2015 together with Stefano Angelini, Fabrizio Dellai, Matteo Faletti, Jiri Leskovjan, Alessandro Lucchi and Piero Ravà.
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
25/02/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During the 24th edition, Polish mountaineer Wojciech Kurtyka will receive the...

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