For Gérard Ottavio and Joel Déanoz

On 6 October 2016 Gérard Ottavio, president of the Matterhorn Alpine Guides, and Joel Déanoz, director of the Breuil-Cervinia ski school, fell to their deaths on the South Face of the Matterhorn during an attempt to repeat the difficult and demanding Deffeyes - Carrel route. Their deaths are an immense loss for Cervinia and for the entire Italian mountaineering community. Hervé Barmasse remembers his friends.
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Gérard Ottavio (on the right) with a client on the Matterhorn
Hervé Barmasse

It’s hard to find the words. Because when you lose a friend, it’s impossible to find the right ones. Above all if it’s the mountain I love most, the one I’m tied to with a brotherly bond, that has torn him away from life, from his three children and wife. It all seems so senseless, so grey and dark. And then you're never ready for something like this, one never is. No one who ever looked into the eyes of that man who had a deep love for the mountains, for the Matterhorn and for our school of mountain guides. How do you hold back the tears? I certainly can’t.

Perhaps because I think of him as he raises the cup of wine and thanks me for having convinced him to embark on the path that enabled him to reach his goal, of becoming a mountain guide; and today, perhaps foolishly, I feel guilty. Just as I feel guilty for having often spoken with him about that route I climbed alone, a route steeped in heritage, in culture and the traditions of us guides. The route was first ascent by Carrellino, a legendary figure for both of us. Time will perhaps bring peace, but not today. With him was Joel. Another friend. Another youngster, another climber who shared this unbridled passion for the mountains.

Our thoughts go to their families as we remember their smiles. Up in the mountains we experience joy, love and passion and, however senseless it may seem - above all in moments like these - they are our life.

Hervé Barmasse

The Club Friends of Cervino have established a fund to help the families of Gérard Ottavio and Joel Déanoz:
Club Amici del Cervino
Intesa Sanpaolo S.P.A
Via E. Chanoux, 88
11027 Saint Vincent N. Conto 1000 / 9297
IT25J 03069 31671 100000009297
BIC BCITITMM

Further information: www.ansa.it




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