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Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
20/11/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
Belgian climber Seb Berthe reports about his first 9a+ redpoint, Super-Crackinette at Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux in France. Success came about after a relentless summer on some of the hardest multi-pitch climbs across the Alps.
Jakob Schubert at Magic Wood frees La Force Tranquille Direct 8C
16/11/2020 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert at Magic Wood frees La Force Tranquille Direct 8C
At Magic Wood in Switzerland Jakob Schubert has made the first ascent of the 8C boulder problem La Force Tranquille Direct.
Bekatau-Ata granite rock climbing in Kazakhstan
13/11/2020 - Climbing
Bekatau-Ata granite rock climbing in Kazakhstan
Kirill Belotserkovskiy introduces the rock climbing at Bekatau-Ata, a fascinating system of granite cliffs 70 kilometers to the north of Balkhash in Central Kazakhstan
Paklenica Croatia: modern classic climbed by Boris Čujić, Ivica Matković
03/11/2020 - Climbing
Paklenica Croatia: modern classic climbed by Boris Čujić, Ivica Matković
At Paklenica in Croatia Boris Čujić and Ivica Matković have made the first ascent of Besmrtnici, a 360m multi-pitch no harder than 6c that is already being described as a modern classic. Čujić reports.
Stefan Scarperi keeps it real on Big Illusion, 8C boulder problem in Val Daone, Italy
31/10/2020 - Climbing
Stefan Scarperi keeps it real on Big Illusion, 8C boulder problem in Val Daone, Italy
29-year-old Italian rock climber Stefan Scarperi has made the first ascent of Big Illusion, an 8C boulder problem in Valle di Daone, Italy.
Tribe at Cadarese: the James Pearson second ascent interview
26/10/2020 - Interviews
Tribe at Cadarese: the James Pearson second ascent interview
Interview with British rock climber James Pearson after the second ascent of Tribe, the extremely difficult trad climb at Cadarese in Italy first ascended by Jacopo Larcher in 2019
Sébastien Bouin adds Beyond Integral 9b/+ Pic Saint Loup France
26/10/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin adds Beyond Integral 9b/+ Pic Saint Loup France
On 20/10/2020 Seb Bouin made the first ascent of Beyond integral 9b/+ and Terra Nova 8c+ at the crag Pic Saint Loup in France.
Marine Thevenet repeats New Base Line, classic Bernd Zangerl boulder at Magic Wood
25/10/2020 - Climbing
Marine Thevenet repeats New Base Line, classic Bernd Zangerl boulder at Magic Wood
French rock climber Marine Thevenet has repeated New Base Line, the classic 8B+ boulder problem at Magic Wood in Switzerland established by Bernd Zangerl.
Mathew Wright repeats Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor
02/10/2020 - Interviews
Mathew Wright repeats Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor
22-year old British rock climber Mathew Wright has made a rare ascent of Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor. First ascended in 1990 and hailed as the world’s first 8c+, this is increasingly considered the world’s first 9a.
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
01/10/2020 - Alpinism
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.
Simon Lorenzi sends Quoi de neuf classic roof bloc at Orsay in France
24/09/2020 - Climbing
Simon Lorenzi sends Quoi de neuf classic roof bloc at Orsay in France
The video of Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi on Quoi de neuf, an 8B + boulder problem at Orsay in France.
Giacomo Meliffi makes free solo ascent of Legoland, legendary crack climb in Valle dell’Orco
17/09/2020 - Climbing
Giacomo Meliffi makes free solo ascent of Legoland, legendary crack climb in Valle dell’Orco
Italian climber Giacomo Meliffi has made a free solo ascent of Legoland, the famous crack climb in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
09/09/2020 - Climbing
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
Maurizio Oviglia introduces a selection of entry-level crack climbs in Valle dell’Orco: Viper, Mamba, Incastromania, Fessura del Tramonto, Fessura Kosterlitz and many others. A step-by-step guide to the trad climbing gems in Valle dell’Orco.
Nathaniel Coleman believes in The Grand Illusion 8C+
27/08/2020 - Climbing
Nathaniel Coleman believes in The Grand Illusion 8C+
The video directed by Ben Neilson documenting the first ascent of The Grand Illusion, an 8C+ boulder problem at Little Cottonwood Canyon in the USA first ascended by Nathaniel Coleman.
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc
14/08/2020 - Alpinism
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc
Interview with Andrea Lanfri who climbed Mont Blanc via the normal Italian route with Massimo Coda. In all likelihood they are theirs is the first paraclimbing partnership to achieve this undertaking.
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs
12/08/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs
Four remarkable ascents will be awarded the Piolets d'Or 2020 at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland from 11 - 22 September: Chamlang by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák, Tengi Ragi Tau by Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva, Link Sar by Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman...

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