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Kevin Jorgeson: from rock climbing to migrant crisis humanitarian aid
15/03/2016 - Interviews
Kevin Jorgeson: from rock climbing to migrant crisis humanitarian aid
Interview with American climber Kevin Jorgeson, famous for his first free ascent of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite (together with Tommy Caldwell in January 2015), who is about to embark on a two week trip to the...
Fitz Roy, Patagonia: new climb by Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smoleň
11/03/2016 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, Patagonia: new climb by Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smoleň
On 30-31/01/2016 the Slovak alpinists Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smolen made the first ascent of Asado (665m, 7a+, M8, A2), a new climb up the South Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Adam Ondra becomes Garda Trentino ambassador
10/03/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra becomes Garda Trentino ambassador
Adam Ondra from the Czech Republich to endorse the Garda Trentino region in Northern Italy. At the start of April the champion climber will take part in a European tour to Zurich, Stuttgart, Frankfurt and Munich.
Patagonia: Riders on the Storm repeated by Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ines Papert and Thomas Senf
02/03/2016 - Alpinism
Patagonia: Riders on the Storm repeated by Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ines Papert and Thomas Senf
Over a 15-day period from 16 January to 20 February Ines Papert, Mayan Smith-Gobat and Thomas Senf repeated Riders on the Storm (7c+, A2, 1300m), the iconic multi-pitch rock climb up the Central Tower of the Torres del Paine in...
Cerro Torre SE Ridge Compressor Route: second free ascent. Interview with Mikey Schaefer
16/02/2016 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre SE Ridge Compressor Route: second free ascent. Interview with Mikey Schaefer
Interview with American alpinist Mikey Schaefer who, together with Andrew Rothner and Josh Wharton, carried out the second free ascent of the Southeast Ridge Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in Patagonia from 4 to 6 February 2016. The first free...
La Lavagna and Luca Zardini's school of climbing
16/02/2016 - Climbing
La Lavagna and Luca Zardini's school of climbing
Two new sports climbs by Luca Zardini: "La lavagna" (8c) and "Attila" (8b+) at Lavagna del Col Drusciè (Lago Ghedina, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Dolomites). Put in other words, Luca "Canon" Zardini and the never-ending school of rock climbing. The report by...
Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites
05/02/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites
British climber Tom Ballard has freed A Line Above the Sky at Tomorrow's World, Dolomites. If the D15 grade is confirmed, this climb weighs in as the hardest drytooling route in the world.
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
04/02/2016 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is...
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
03/02/2016 - Alpinism
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold who on Sunday 31 January 2016 made the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in Patagonia by enchaining Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. The American alpinists needed just 20...
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
02/02/2016 - Climbing
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
From 2 - 21 December 2015 Octavio Aragon, Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of El Son del Viento (5.12d, 420m) a new sports climb up the North Face of El Diente, Parque Nacional Cumbres de...
Janja Garnbret flashes second 8c at Santa Linya
03/01/2016 - Climbing
Janja Garnbret flashes second 8c at Santa Linya
At Santa Linya in Spain 16-year-old sports climber Janja Garnbret has flashed La Fabelita, her second 8c. On the same day she onsighted an 8a+ and an 8b.
Chloë, new icefall at Vallone del Grauson, Cogne, Italy
18/12/2015 - Alpinism
Chloë, new icefall at Vallone del Grauson, Cogne, Italy
On 15/12/2015 The mountain guides Ezio Marlier and Thomas Scalise Meynet, together with Roger Bovard made the first ascent of Chloë (M6 WI 4 II), a new, beautiful and difficult ice climb in vallone del Grauson (Cogne, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.....
Annalisa De Marco and the disarming lightness of bouldering
15/12/2015 - Interviews
Annalisa De Marco and the disarming lightness of bouldering
Interview with talented Italian climber Annalisa De Marco who, on only her third attempt, sent Disney Production, an 8A+ boulder problem at Brione, Canton Ticino, Switzerland.
Chris Sharma back to the future on Magie blanche at Mouriès
12/12/2015 - Climbing
Chris Sharma back to the future on Magie blanche at Mouriès
American rock climber Chris Sharma tests his skills on Magie blanche, a sport climb at Mouriès in France bolted by Marc Le Ménestrel and freed by Didier Raboutou back in 1989. At the time, this slab was hailed as one...
Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite with Sasha DiGiulian and Kevin Jorgeson
01/12/2015 - Climbing
Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite with Sasha DiGiulian and Kevin Jorgeson
The video of American rock climbers Sasha DiGiulian and Kevin Jorgeson climbing the legendary Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite Valley, USA.
Mina Markovič and Sachi Amma, end of year tests at Misja Pec and Ospo
24/11/2015 - Climbing
Mina Markovič and Sachi Amma, end of year tests at Misja Pec and Ospo
At Slovenia’s top sports crag Misja Pec Mina Markovic has made a 3rd go repeat of the 8c+ Histerija, while at nearby Osp Sachi Amma has made a 4th go repeat of Water World 9a.