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Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
27/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May...
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
20/06/2019 - Interviews
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
Interview with the Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini after his solo ascent of the virgin East Face of Lamo She (6070m) in China. The 1500m new climb is called Wild Blood and was graded WI5, M5, V°, 90°
Speta che Vegno, new multi-pitch rock climb in Valle del Sarca
13/06/2019 - Alpinism
Speta che Vegno, new multi-pitch rock climb in Valle del Sarca
On Croz dele Mirandole (Roccione di Ranzo) at Ranzo in the Sarca valley, Italy, Nicola Cont, Martin Giovanazzi and Elio Mazzalai have made the first ascent of Speta che Vegno, a new multi-pitch climb they established ground-up.
Angela Eiter powers through Pure Dreaming at Massone, Arco
10/06/2019 - Climbing
Angela Eiter powers through Pure Dreaming at Massone, Arco
Austrian rock climber Angela Eiter reports about her recent redpoint of Pure Dreaming, a 9a sports climb freed by Adam Ondra at Massone, Arco, Italy.
Zaila Rakhmetov, a force of nature
06/06/2019 - Climbing
Zaila Rakhmetov, a force of nature
Updates about Zaila Rakhmetov, the daughter of Guzel and Salavat Rakhmetov who in 2010 was seriously injured in a climbing accident in Turkey when she was 5 years old.
Taghia Gorge: Moroccan Honey Moon climb established by Iker Pou, Neus Colom
29/05/2019 - Alpinism
Taghia Gorge: Moroccan Honey Moon climb established by Iker Pou, Neus Colom
Newlyweds Iker Pou and Neus Colom have made the first ascent of Honey Moon, a new multi-pitch rock climb in the Taghia Gorge in Morocco’s High Atlas massif.
Aleksandra Rudzinska and Dmitrii Timofeev fastest in China
04/05/2019 - Competitions
Aleksandra Rudzinska and Dmitrii Timofeev fastest in China
The third stage of the Speed World Cup 2019 was won last night by Dmitrii Timofeev and Aleksandra Rudzinska at Wujiang in China.
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
30/04/2019 - Interviews
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED,...
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain,...
Marco Pedrini, Cumbre and the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in 1985
11/04/2019 - Alpinism
Marco Pedrini, Cumbre and the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in 1985
The 1985 film Cerro Torre Cumbre by Fulvio Mariani that documents the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in Patagonia, carried out by Swiss alpinist Marco Pedrini on 26/11/1985 via the Cesare Maestri Compressor Route.
New Arco multipitch rock climb at Mandrea
03/04/2019 - Alpinism
New Arco multipitch rock climb at Mandrea
On the Mandrea rock face above Arco (Valle del Sarca, Italy) Ivan Maghella and Alessandro Arduini have made the first ascent of Testa tra le nuvole (270m, 7a+ max, 6c S2 obbl.), a new multi-pitch bolted rock climb. Arduini reports.
Filip Babicz frees Uragano Dorato, D15 dry tooling at Italy's Bus del Quai
13/03/2019 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz frees Uragano Dorato, D15 dry tooling at Italy's Bus del Quai
At the drytooling crag Bus del Quai (Italy) Polish climber Filip Babicz has made the first ascent of Uragano Dorato, D15.
Seynes, supreme sports climbing in the south of France
06/03/2019 - Climbing
Seynes, supreme sports climbing in the south of France
Luigi Billoro introduces the crag Seynes, with more than 300 sports climbs undoubtedly one of the finest limestone cliffs in the south of France.
Beauty and the Beast in the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
14/02/2019 - Alpinism
Beauty and the Beast in the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
Winter climbing in the Dolomites: Simone Banal and Matteo Faletti report about their first ascents, on 8 and 9 January 2019 of 'La Bella' (265m AI5+, 90°) and ‘La Bestia' (250m, AI5+, M6) up Cima del Focobon, Pale di San...
Adam Ondra and Piotr Schab send 9a+ in Spain
10/02/2019 - Climbing
Adam Ondra and Piotr Schab send 9a+ in Spain
Sport climbing in Spain: Adam Ondra has sent Catxasa at Santa Linya while Piotr Schab has redointed La Rambla in Siurana. Both climbs are graded 9a+.
Caddymania, new Dolomites winter climb up Langkofel by Alessandro Baù, Giovanni Zaccaria
05/02/2019 - Alpinism
Caddymania, new Dolomites winter climb up Langkofel by Alessandro Baù, Giovanni Zaccaria
Winter mountaineering in the Dolomites: on the NW Face of the Innerkofler Tower, Langkofel / Sassolungo, Alessandro Baù and Giovanni Zaccaria have made the first ascent of the mixed climb of Caddymania. Zaccaria reports.

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