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Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz climb Baffin Island The Turret by fair means
09/08/2016 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz climb Baffin Island The Turret by fair means
German alpinists Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz and photographer Klaus Fengler have just returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where, on the West Face of The Turret, they managed to repeat and add new free variations to Nuvualik, the...
Sir Chris Bonington at Courmayeur's Passione Verticale 2016
07/08/2016 - Events
Sir Chris Bonington at Courmayeur's Passione Verticale 2016
On Sunday, August 7 the legendary British mountaineer Sir Chris Bonington will take to the stage at Passione Verticale, the classic summer festival the town of Courmayeur dedicates every year to alpinism and the mountains. The evening begins at 21:15...
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
21/07/2016 - Alpinism
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
The bodies of Italian alpinists Roberto Iannilli and Luca D’Andrea were retrieved today from the North Face of Mt. Camicia (Gran Sasso massif), Italy. Iannilli, from Ladispoli, was 62 years old, while D’Andrea came from Sulmona and was 51 years...
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
On 7 July 7 2016 Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata carried out the first repeat of Via Miotto-Saviane-Corona up the north face of Col Nudo (Col Brie), first climbed from 5 - 7 June 1982 by Franco Miotto, Benito Saviane...
Helvetestinden Wall, new rock climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
05/07/2016 - Climbing
Helvetestinden Wall, new rock climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
In summer 2015 Guillermo Cuadrado, Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve and Salvador Llorens climbed two new routes on the huge Helvetestinden Wall and one new route on the Selgstinden Pillar on the Lofoten Islands, Norway.
Underground climbed by Jacopo Larcher at Massone, Arco
16/06/2016 - Climbing
Underground climbed by Jacopo Larcher at Massone, Arco
The report by Italian climber Jacopo Larcher who repeated Underground, the 9a sports climb freed in 1998 by Manfred Stuffer at Massone close to Arco (Lake Garda – Trentino), Italy.
Colin Haley makes first solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska
07/06/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley makes first solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley has made the first solo ascent the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. While the ascent required just 12 hours 29 minutes from the Bergschrund to the summit, the descent proved a harrowing...
Enrico Baistrocchi: California, climbing, work and a touch of nostalgia
06/06/2016 - Climbing
Enrico Baistrocchi: California, climbing, work and a touch of nostalgia
At Mt. Woodson, San Diego, California, where Enrico Baistrocchi moved to work as a route setter and climbing coach, the Italian climber has made the first ascent of Ancora Vivo, at V12 the hardest boulder problem in the area and...
Jon Cardwell climbs Biographie at Céüse in France
30/05/2016 - Climbing
Jon Cardwell climbs Biographie at Céüse in France
At Ceuse in France Jon Cardwell has redpointed Biographie, the famous 9a+ sports climb freed by Chris Sharma in 2001.
Silvio Reffo climbs Cornalba 9a+ with Goldrake
17/05/2016 - Climbing
Silvio Reffo climbs Cornalba 9a+ with Goldrake
On 15/05/2016 Italian sports climber Silvio Reffo repeated Goldrake, the 9a+ sports climb at Cornalba, Italy.
Alex Lowe and David Bridges: bodies found in the Himalaya, 16 years after struck by avalanche
02/05/2016 - Alpinism
Alex Lowe and David Bridges: bodies found in the Himalaya, 16 years after struck by avalanche
The bodies of Alex Lowe, one of the strongest American mountaineers of all time, and David Bridges, have been discovered in the Himalaya 16 years after having been swept away by an avalanche while climbing Shishapangma (8027m), Tibet. Their remains...
Shauna Coxsey and Rustam Gelmanov win Kazo stage of Bouldering World Cup 2016
24/04/2016 - Competitions
Shauna Coxsey and Rustam Gelmanov win Kazo stage of Bouldering World Cup 2016
British climber Shauna Coxsey and Russia’s Rustam Gelmanov have won the second stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2016, held yesterday and today at Kazo in Japan. Italy’s Michael Piccolruaz places a sensational second.
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
23/04/2016 - Alpinism
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
After a few nights spent at about 5700m, the Italian alpinists Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli have concluded their acclimatization prior to attempting the unclimbed north face of Chamlang Peak (7319 m), Nepal. Conditions are not ideal conditions and the...
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
20/04/2016 - Climbing
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
The report by Marco Bozzetta who, together with Francesco Salvaterra, made the first ascent of Pace in Siria (7a+, 6c+ obligatory, 230m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the SE Face of Dain di Pietramurata, Valle del Sarca, Italy.
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
19/04/2016 - Book-press
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
A book for dreamers: Savage arena by Joe Tasker. A story about a form of alpinism that has perhaps disappeared but which has certainly left its mark in history. The book review by Ivo Ferrari.
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
15/04/2016 - Book-press
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
Interview with Austrian climbing team coach Heiko Wilhelm about his book "Beyond the Face, characters of climbing", a mine of information that retraces 30 years of competition climbing through the eyes of 39 athletes who have helped shape this young...

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