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Mountaineering exploration in Pakistan for Matteo della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani, David Hall
17/06/2019 - Alpinism
Mountaineering exploration in Pakistan for Matteo della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani, David Hall
A group of Italian mountaineers comprised of Matteo della Bordella, Maurizio Giordani, Massimo Faletti and David Hall are about to embark on a one-month expedition to explore unchartered mountains in Pakistan.
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
14/06/2019 - Alpinism
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
In September 2019 the Polish mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki will receive the Piolets d'Or Carrière 2019. In the past this prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington, Wojciech Kurtyka, Jeff Lowe and Andrej Štremfelj.
Angela Eiter powers through Pure Dreaming at Massone, Arco
10/06/2019 - Climbing
Angela Eiter powers through Pure Dreaming at Massone, Arco
Austrian rock climber Angela Eiter reports about her recent redpoint of Pure Dreaming, a 9a sports climb freed by Adam Ondra at Massone, Arco, Italy.
Sarah Kampf controls Headcrash in Frankenjura
28/05/2019 - Climbing
Sarah Kampf controls Headcrash in Frankenjura
Sarah Kampf, née Sarah Seeger, has repeated the powerful Headcrash, an 8c sports climb originally freed by Werner Thon in the Frankenjura, Germany. The 38-year-old mother of two recounts her road to the redpoint.
Caterina Bassi repeats Turkey crack, difficult offwidth trad climb at Cadarese
24/05/2019 - Climbing
Caterina Bassi repeats Turkey crack, difficult offwidth trad climb at Cadarese
At Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, Caterina Bassi has repeated Turkey crack, the difficult offwidth trad crack climb first ascended by Sean Villanueva in 2010
Everest new route attempt by Cory Richards and Esteban Mena
15/05/2019 - Alpinism
Everest new route attempt by Cory Richards and Esteban Mena
Mountaineers Cory Richards from the USA and Esteban ‘Topo’ Mena from Ecuador are currently trying to forge a new climb up the NE Face of Everest. Kami Rita Sherpa has just climbed the highest mountain in the world for a record-breaking 23rd time.
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
30/04/2019 - Interviews
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED, 2500m)
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain, established a 1000m new climb called Quajanaq. This shares sections...
Gruelling Canyonlands crack climbed by Pete Whittaker, Tom Randall
17/04/2019 - Climbing
Gruelling Canyonlands crack climbed by Pete Whittaker, Tom Randall
British rock climbers Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall have made the first ascent of Black Mamba, a 5.14b trad crack climb in The Canyonlands, USA.
Keita Kurakami climbs 8c+ rope solo at Mt. Futago in Japan
28/03/2019 - Climbing
Keita Kurakami climbs 8c+ rope solo at Mt. Futago in Japan
Japanese climber Keita Kurakami has made a rope-solo ascent of Mare, an 8c+ sport climb at Mt. Futago in Japan. This is likely to be the most difficult rope-solo ever of a single pitch sports climb.
Jacopo Larcher and Tribe, his most difficult trad climb at Cadarese / Interview
26/03/2019 - Interviews
Jacopo Larcher and Tribe, his most difficult trad climb at Cadarese / Interview
Interview with Jacopo Larcher after his first ascent of Tribe at Cadarese, Italy on 22 March 2019. The Italian rock climber defined the route as 'the most difficult thing I’ve ever climbed'.
Nanga Parbat: fundraising appeal for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard search operations
02/03/2019 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: fundraising appeal for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard search operations
While the poor weather conditions in the Nanga Parbat area are hindering the search for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard, a group of friends has launched the following appeal for funds in order to try everything possibile in order to find the two alpinists who have been missing since Sunday...
Tigersoft, new winter climb in Brenta Dolomites
07/02/2019 - Alpinism
Tigersoft, new winter climb in Brenta Dolomites
Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: Simone Banal reports about the first ascent of Tigersoft, a new winter climb up the north face of Cima Brenta established with Fabrizio Dellai and Marco Zanni.
Pelmoon, new mixed climb up Pelmo North Face in Dolomites
01/02/2019 - Alpinism
Pelmoon, new mixed climb up Pelmo North Face in Dolomites
Enrico Geremia reports about the first ascent of Pelmoon up the North Face of Mt. Pelmo in the Dolomites, established over two days with his brother Daniele Geremia and Fabrizio della Rossa.
Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
17/01/2019 - Alpinism
Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
Enrico Sasso reports about his 11 December 2018 solo first ascent of Rose (ED, 380m, WI4, M7) a new mixed route up the north face of Marguareis in the Ligurian Alps, Italy.
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
10/01/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb CRAM (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.

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