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Goodbye to Franček Knez, Slovenia's silent climber
09/10/2017 - Alpinism
Goodbye to Franček Knez, Slovenia's silent climber
62-year-old Slovenian mountaineer Franček Knez died on 6 October 2017. Reserved and modest, Knez was considered by many as one of the strongest alpinists of his generation. Published below is a profile written by Slovenian journalist Urban Golob in 2010 when, together with Silvo Karo, Knez was conferred the Order...
Paige Claassen and Iva Vejmolová climb hard at Flatanger in Norway
21/09/2017 - Climbing
Paige Claassen and Iva Vejmolová climb hard at Flatanger in Norway
Sport climbing: a American rock climber Paige Claassen has repeated Eye of Odin 8c+ at Flatanger in Norway, while Iva Vejmolová from the Czech Republic has repeated the 8c Nordic Plumber.
Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
16/08/2017 - Alpinism
Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
In July 2017 a Chilean expedition comprised of Andres Bosch, Alejandro Mora and Armando Montero has made two first ascents close to Broad Peak and K2 in Pakistan’s Karakorum range: Praqpa Ri South 7046m and the new route Mirchi up Norit Peak, 6270m.
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
11/08/2017 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
The report by Czech mountaineer Marek Holeček who with Zdeněk Hák established over 8 days a great new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 meters), Karakorum.
Steve House mountain training workshop at Chamonix on 19 August
03/08/2017 - Events
Steve House mountain training workshop at Chamonix on 19 August
Five questions to American alpinist Steve House who, together with Scott Johnston, will run a Mountain Performance Workshop at St. Gervais close to Chamonix on 19 August 2017.
Laura Rogora and Margo Hayes set sights on Biographie at Céüse in France
02/08/2017 - Climbing
Laura Rogora and Margo Hayes set sights on Biographie at Céüse in France
Italian climber Laura Rogora has climbed the first 8c+ section of Biographie at Céüse in France. The extension, freed in 2001 by Chris Sharma, is considered a benchmark 9a+ and was attempted in June by America’s Margo Hayes.
Mountaineering in Bolivia: new climb in little known Cordillera Quimsa Cruz
25/07/2017 - Alpinism
Mountaineering in Bolivia: new climb in little known Cordillera Quimsa Cruz
Enrico Rosso reports about the June 2017 expedition he led to the Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz massif in Bolivia, where the rock climb 'Kamasa' (250m, 6b, A2) was added to the North Face of Gran Muralla (5200m).
Christian Maurer wins Red Bull X-Alps 2017 for fifth consecutive victory
13/07/2017 - Competitions
Christian Maurer wins Red Bull X-Alps 2017 for fifth consecutive victory
At 10:53 am today the 34-year-old Swissman Christian Maurer won the Red Bull X-Alps 2017 for the fifth time running, while France’s Benoit Outters placed second. Maurer needed 11 days, 23 hours and 23 minutes to paraglide and walk across the Alps from Salzburg to Austria all the way to...
Michael Wohlleben frees Parzival 8b on Westliche Dreifaltigkeit
12/07/2017 - Climbing
Michael Wohlleben frees Parzival 8b on Westliche Dreifaltigkeit
In Switzerland’s Alpsteingebirge Germany’s Michael Wohlleben, climbing with Markus Hutter, has made the first free ascent of Parzival (8b, 150m) up the splendid limestone formation Westliche Dreifaltigkeit.
Denali, Alaska: Slovak Direct repeated by David Bacci and Luca Moroni
11/07/2017 - Alpinism
Denali, Alaska: Slovak Direct repeated by David Bacci and Luca Moroni
On their first climbing trip to Alaska, alpinists David Bacci and Luca Moroni pulled off the first Italian repeat of the Slovak Direct route up Denali (6194m) in Alaska.
Adam Ondra climbing towards the world’s first 9c
26/06/2017 - Climbing
Adam Ondra climbing towards the world’s first 9c
Interview with Czech climber Adam Ondra who at Flatanger in Norway is currently attempting a route he believes might merit a 9c grade, meaning it would be the hardest sport climb in the world.
Monte Limbara and the new trad climbing in Sardinia
23/06/2017 - Climbing
Monte Limbara and the new trad climbing in Sardinia
The latest trad climbs at Monte Limbara on the North of Sardinia, first ascended by Maurizio Oviglia and Filippo Manca. Oviglia provides the report.
Aaron Durogati and the unmissable, ever-changing air of Red Bull X-Alps 2017
20/06/2017 - Interviews
Aaron Durogati and the unmissable, ever-changing air of Red Bull X-Alps 2017
Interview with paragliding champion Aaron Durogati who on 2 July will lift off from Salzburg in Austria and take part in his third Red Bull X-Alps, the 1100km race by paraglider or on foot across the Alps all the way to Monte Carlo.
Paul Pritchard: Lowest to Highest in Australia crowdfunding campaign
19/06/2017 - Alpinism
Paul Pritchard: Lowest to Highest in Australia crowdfunding campaign
A crowdfunding campaign has been launched to finance a film documenting a team of five disabled friends as they make the never previously attempted journey from the lowest to the highest point in Australia. In September 2017 Paul Pritchard, Duncan Meerding, Conrad Wainsboroug, Walter van Praag and Daniel Kojta will...
Tempi Moderni on Marmolada, a young adventure in the Dolomites
13/06/2017 - Alpinism
Tempi Moderni on Marmolada, a young adventure in the Dolomites
18-year-old Marco Cordin's retraces his recent repeat, together with the 16-year-old Pietro Garzon, of Tempi Moderni up the South Face of Marmolada. First climbed in 1982 by Heinz Mariacher and Luisa Iovane, this is one of the most famous rock climbs in the Dolomites.
Ricordi nebbiosi, big new rock climb up Cima della Busazza, Civetta, Dolomites
01/06/2017 - Alpinism
Ricordi nebbiosi, big new rock climb up Cima della Busazza, Civetta, Dolomites
From 2 to 3 August 2016 Giorgio Travaglia, Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of Ricordi nebbiosi (IX-A1), an almost 1200m high route up the NW Face of Cima della Busazza (Civetta, Dolomites).