846 News found

Interview with Alessandro Zeni who on 11/01/2020 at Saint Loup in Switzerland made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of the routes Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. With its suggested grade of 9b it checks in as one of the most difficult slabs in the world.

On 11 January 2020 Italian climber Alessandro Zeni made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna at the crag Saint Loup in Switzerland. The 28-year-old has put forward the grade 9b, indicating it is it one of the most difficult slabs in the world.

The video of New Deal, first ascended by Scott Cosgrove in 1988 and repeated for the first time 22 years later, by Alan Moore in 2010.

Joe Brown, one of the world’s greatest all-round climbers, passed away last night aged 89. Brown pioneered climbs throughout Great Britain, the Alps and the Greater Ranges in particular in the 1950's and '60's. Cenotaph Corner on Dinas Cromlech in Wales and the first ascent of Kangchenjunga (8586m) in Nepal...

The film Marcel directed by Nicolas Falquet which follows Marcel Remy as he climbs the west face of Miroir de l'Argentine in Switzerland. Father of the famous Swiss mountaineers Claude and Yves Remy, Marcel repeated the route in 2017 aged 94.

After spending 33 days alone on the wall from 07/02 - 10/03/2020, Silvia Vidal completed a new big wall climb up the West Face of Cerro Chileno Grande in Patagonia, Chile. Sincronia Magica (A3+/6a+, 1200m circa) is the first route up the mountain’s west face.

Spanish climber Iker Pou recalls his ascent 20 years ago of Action Directe, the Frankenjura masterpiece freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991. At the time, Pou’s ascent in autumn 2000 was only the second repeat after Alexander Adler and, nowadays just two decades ago, the route is considered one of...

Chouca at Buoux is one of those routes that has marked the history of sport climbing. First ascended in 1985 by Marc Le Menestrel, it was recently repeated by his daughter Eline Le Menestrel. This was an excellent pretext to find out more about this legendary climb and why...

German rock climber Lena Müller has repeated Prinzip Hoffnung, the 8b/+ E9/E10 trad climb located at Bürser Platte, Austria freed in 2009 by Beat Kammerlander.

French mountain guide Arnaud Petit and Jonathan Crison have led a young FFME expedition to Jordan where they established a new route up Jebel Rum in the Wadi Rum massif. Voie du Coeur (430m, 7c+ max, 7b obligatory) was first ascended with Eline Le Menestrel, Solène Amoros, Eloi Peretti, Romaric...

On 25/01/2020 alpinists Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet made the first ascent of Fury Road (600m, M6 WI6 45°), a new mixed climb up the north face of the Rochers de Gagnières, not far from the Dent du Midi mountain range in the Chablais Alps in Switzerland. Chatelan report.

Belgian rock climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his ascents of three big wall climbs in Cochamó valley in Chilean Patagonia: repeats of Sundance on Cerro Trinidad with Diego Diazaguilera and El Condor Pasa on Trinidad Central with Max Didier, and the first ascent of Jardines de Piedras on Cerro la...

Chris Warner from Australia reports about a rock climbing trip to Kassala in western Sudan with Jonny Baker which resulted in a handful of new routes in the Taka Mountains,

On Sass de la Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites, the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of Rapunzel, a new ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M7+.

From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...

26-year-old Miles Adamson from Canada has made the first ascent of Too Tall to Fall, a huge highball boulder problem at the Buttermilks in Bishop, California, USA.