854 News found

German rock climber Lena Müller has repeated Prinzip Hoffnung, the 8b/+ E9/E10 trad climb located at Bürser Platte, Austria freed in 2009 by Beat Kammerlander.

French mountain guide Arnaud Petit and Jonathan Crison have led a young FFME expedition to Jordan where they established a new route up Jebel Rum in the Wadi Rum massif. Voie du Coeur (430m, 7c+ max, 7b obligatory) was first ascended with Eline Le Menestrel, Solène Amoros, Eloi Peretti, Romaric...

On 25/01/2020 alpinists Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet made the first ascent of Fury Road (600m, M6 WI6 45°), a new mixed climb up the north face of the Rochers de Gagnières, not far from the Dent du Midi mountain range in the Chablais Alps in Switzerland. Chatelan report.

Belgian rock climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his ascents of three big wall climbs in Cochamó valley in Chilean Patagonia: repeats of Sundance on Cerro Trinidad with Diego Diazaguilera and El Condor Pasa on Trinidad Central with Max Didier, and the first ascent of Jardines de Piedras on Cerro la...

Chris Warner from Australia reports about a rock climbing trip to Kassala in western Sudan with Jonny Baker which resulted in a handful of new routes in the Taka Mountains,

On Sass de la Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites, the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of Rapunzel, a new ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M7+.

From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...

26-year-old Miles Adamson from Canada has made the first ascent of Too Tall to Fall, a huge highball boulder problem at the Buttermilks in Bishop, California, USA.

Two new ice and mixed routes were established in Valnontey, Valle d'Aosta, close to the legendary Repentance: Sputnik and Daddy cool, by Michele Amadio, Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz, Roberto Meoli and Alberto Silvestri. Cogne Mountain Guides Marco Farina reports

Simon Messner has recently climbed two new mixed routes: the first at the Sarner Scharte in the Sarntal valley (Sarntal Alps) with Kurt Brugger; the second - three additional pitches to Solo per un altro Hashtag - located in Val Lasties (Dolomites) with Martin Sieberer.

German climber Michi Wohlleben has repeated Psychogramm, the 8b+ trad climb at the Bürser Platte in Austria, first ascended in 2014 by Alex Luger.

Heinz Mariacher shares his thoughts after Magnus Midtbø paid a visit to Arco, Italy, during which the Norwegian climber attempted to classic slab climbs dating back to the 1980s and first ascended by Mariacher himself: Super Swing at the Swing Area and Tom & Jerry at Spiaggia delle Lucertole.

From 11 - 16 October 2019 alpinists Quentin Roberts from Canada and Juho Knuuttila from Finland made an impressive attempt of the unclimbed North Pillar of Tengkangpoche (Teng Kang Poche) in Nepal. Knuuttila reports about their first proper experience climbing in the Himalaya.

The video of Magnus Midtbø tackling two ‘legendary' slabs at Arco first ascended by Heinz Mariacher: Super Swing (1983) at Swing Area and Tom e Jerry (1984) at Spiaggia delle Lucertole immediately above Lake Garda.

The topo of Dolasilla (VIII-, 300m) established by Tobias Engl and Florian Huber up Piz Lavarella (Conturines - Lavarella) in the Dolomites. According to the first ascentionists this is likely to be the first route up the mountain’s west face.

Caterina Bassi reports about the first ascent of El despertador fotonico, a new multi-pitch rock climb established up the south face of the Escudo del Qualido in Val di Mello, Italy, with Martino Quintavalla.