846 News found

Two new ice and mixed routes were established in Valnontey, Valle d'Aosta, close to the legendary Repentance: Sputnik and Daddy cool, by Michele Amadio, Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz, Roberto Meoli and Alberto Silvestri. Cogne Mountain Guides Marco Farina reports

Simon Messner has recently climbed two new mixed routes: the first at the Sarner Scharte in the Sarntal valley (Sarntal Alps) with Kurt Brugger; the second - three additional pitches to Solo per un altro Hashtag - located in Val Lasties (Dolomites) with Martin Sieberer.

German climber Michi Wohlleben has repeated Psychogramm, the 8b+ trad climb at the Bürser Platte in Austria, first ascended in 2014 by Alex Luger.

Heinz Mariacher shares his thoughts after Magnus Midtbø paid a visit to Arco, Italy, during which the Norwegian climber attempted to classic slab climbs dating back to the 1980s and first ascended by Mariacher himself: Super Swing at the Swing Area and Tom & Jerry at Spiaggia delle Lucertole.

From 11 - 16 October 2019 alpinists Quentin Roberts from Canada and Juho Knuuttila from Finland made an impressive attempt of the unclimbed North Pillar of Tengkangpoche (Teng Kang Poche) in Nepal. Knuuttila reports about their first proper experience climbing in the Himalaya.

The video of Magnus Midtbø tackling two ‘legendary' slabs at Arco first ascended by Heinz Mariacher: Super Swing (1983) at Swing Area and Tom e Jerry (1984) at Spiaggia delle Lucertole immediately above Lake Garda.

The topo of Dolasilla (VIII-, 300m) established by Tobias Engl and Florian Huber up Piz Lavarella (Conturines - Lavarella) in the Dolomites. According to the first ascentionists this is likely to be the first route up the mountain’s west face.

Caterina Bassi reports about the first ascent of El despertador fotonico, a new multi-pitch rock climb established up the south face of the Escudo del Qualido in Val di Mello, Italy, with Martino Quintavalla.

30 years today: on 24 October 1989, Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukuczka died while attempting Lhotse. Kukuczka was the second man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders after Reinhold Messner and an absolute legend of high altitude Himalayan mountaineering.

Italian mountain guide Umberto Bado introduces two absolute classic rock climbs in Valle dell'Orco: Fessura della Disperazione and Via Locatelli.

Italian boulderer Elias Iagnemma has made the first ascent of Ten at Vado di Sole in Abruzzo, Italy. This is the first route in the region graded 9a/a+.

The film Age of Ondra, directed by Sender Films. A fascinating portrait of Czech climber Adam Ondra as he struggles with Silence, the world’s first 9c, with Crackinette, ie the first-ever 9a+ flash, and his attempt to repeat a 9b in a single day.

On the hitherto unclimbed south face of Middle Pillar of Nalumasortoq above the Tasermiut Fjord in Greenland Italian climbers Federica Mingolla and Edoardo Saccaro have established La Cura, a new big wall with difficulties up to 7b+/A2.

Scottish rock climber Dave MacLeod has made the first ascent of Mind Riot at Binnein Shuas in Scotland. Graded E10 7a, it stands as one of the most difficult trad climbs in the country.

Swiss climbers Marcel Schenk and David Hefti have climbed Via Nardella up Piz Badile, opened in 1973 by Daniele Chiappa, Giulio Martinelli, Tiziano Nardella and Elio Scarabelli in 1973. Hefti and Schenk onsighted all pitches, except for two which were climbed free by the second.

Italian mountaineer Matteo Della Bordella provides the details about the successful climbing expedition to the Garhwal Himalaya in India where with Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo he made the first ascent of the coveted west face of Bhagirathi IV (6193m). And miraculously escaped scary rockfall a few days earlier.