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Two new ice climbs in Valnontey by the Cogne Mountain Guides
10/01/2020 - Alpinism
Two new ice climbs in Valnontey by the Cogne Mountain Guides
Two new ice and mixed routes were established in Valnontey, Valle d'Aosta, close to the legendary Repentance: Sputnik and Daddy cool, by Michele Amadio, Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz, Roberto Meoli and Alberto Silvestri. Cogne Mountain Guides Marco Farina reports
Simon Messner seeks unclimbed ice in Sarntal Alps and Dolomites
27/12/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Messner seeks unclimbed ice in Sarntal Alps and Dolomites
Simon Messner has recently climbed two new mixed routes: the first at the Sarner Scharte in the Sarntal valley (Sarntal Alps) with Kurt Brugger; the second - three additional pitches to Solo per un altro Hashtag - located in Val...
Michi Wohlleben calm, cool and collected on Psychogramm, 8b+ trad slab
18/12/2019 - Climbing
Michi Wohlleben calm, cool and collected on Psychogramm, 8b+ trad slab
German climber Michi Wohlleben has repeated Psychogramm, the 8b+ trad climb at the Bürser Platte in Austria, first ascended in 2014 by Alex Luger.
Heinz Mariacher: Back to the future? Magnus Midtbø explores Arco's historic slab climbs
27/11/2019 - Climbing
Heinz Mariacher: Back to the future? Magnus Midtbø explores Arco's historic slab climbs
Heinz Mariacher shares his thoughts after Magnus Midtbø paid a visit to Arco, Italy, during which the Norwegian climber attempted to classic slab climbs dating back to the 1980s and first ascended by Mariacher himself: Super Swing at the Swing...
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
15/11/2019 - Alpinism
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
From 11 - 16 October 2019 alpinists Quentin Roberts from Canada and Juho Knuuttila from Finland made an impressive attempt of the unclimbed North Pillar of Tengkangpoche (Teng Kang Poche) in Nepal. Knuuttila reports about their first proper experience climbing...
Magnus Midtbø at Arco climbs Heinz Mariacher 80's sketchy slabs
14/11/2019 - Climbing
Magnus Midtbø at Arco climbs Heinz Mariacher 80's sketchy slabs
The video of Magnus Midtbø tackling two ‘legendary' slabs at Arco first ascended by Heinz Mariacher: Super Swing (1983) at Swing Area and Tom e Jerry (1984) at Spiaggia delle Lucertole immediately above Lake Garda.
Tobias Engl, Florian Huber establish Dolasilla up Lavarella in the Dolomites
05/11/2019 - Alpinism
Tobias Engl, Florian Huber establish Dolasilla up Lavarella in the Dolomites
The topo of Dolasilla (VIII-, 300m) established by Tobias Engl and Florian Huber up Piz Lavarella (Conturines - Lavarella) in the Dolomites. According to the first ascentionists this is likely to be the first route up the mountain’s west face.
Val di Mello climbing: new Escudo del Qualido route by Caterina Bassi, Martino Quintavalla
04/11/2019 - Alpinism
Val di Mello climbing: new Escudo del Qualido route by Caterina Bassi, Martino Quintavalla
Caterina Bassi reports about the first ascent of El despertador fotonico, a new multi-pitch rock climb established up the south face of the Escudo del Qualido in Val di Mello, Italy, with Martino Quintavalla.
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
24/10/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
30 years today: on 24 October 1989, Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukuczka died while attempting Lhotse. Kukuczka was the second man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders after Reinhold Messner and an absolute legend of high altitude Himalayan mountaineering.
Orco Valley climbing: two classic rock climbs up Sergent
22/10/2019 - Alpinism
Orco Valley climbing: two classic rock climbs up Sergent
Italian mountain guide Umberto Bado introduces two absolute classic rock climbs in Valle dell'Orco: Fessura della Disperazione and Via Locatelli.
Elias Iagnemma establishes Ten at Vado di Sole, hardest sport climb in Abruzzo
11/10/2019 - Climbing
Elias Iagnemma establishes Ten at Vado di Sole, hardest sport climb in Abruzzo
Italian boulderer Elias Iagnemma has made the first ascent of Ten at Vado di Sole in Abruzzo, Italy. This is the first route in the region graded 9a/a+.
Age of Adam Ondra - the current limit of sport climbing
10/10/2019 - Climbing
Age of Adam Ondra - the current limit of sport climbing
The film Age of Ondra, directed by Sender Films. A fascinating portrait of Czech climber Adam Ondra as he struggles with Silence, the world’s first 9c, with Crackinette, ie the first-ever 9a+ flash, and his attempt to repeat a 9b...
Federica Mingolla, Edoardo Saccaro climb new big wall up Nalumasortoq, Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland
08/10/2019 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla, Edoardo Saccaro climb new big wall up Nalumasortoq, Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland
On the hitherto unclimbed south face of Middle Pillar of Nalumasortoq above the Tasermiut Fjord in Greenland Italian climbers Federica Mingolla and Edoardo Saccaro have established La Cura, a new big wall with difficulties up to 7b+/A2.
Dave MacLeod quashes his Mind Riot, new E10 trad climb at Binnein Shuas in Scotland
05/10/2019 - Climbing
Dave MacLeod quashes his Mind Riot, new E10 trad climb at Binnein Shuas in Scotland
Scottish rock climber Dave MacLeod has made the first ascent of Mind Riot at Binnein Shuas in Scotland. Graded E10 7a, it stands as one of the most difficult trad climbs in the country.
Pizzo Badile Free Nardella climbed by Marcel Schenk, David Hefti
03/10/2019 - Alpinism
Pizzo Badile Free Nardella climbed by Marcel Schenk, David Hefti
Swiss climbers Marcel Schenk and David Hefti have climbed Via Nardella up Piz Badile, opened in 1973 by Daniele Chiappa, Giulio Martinelli, Tiziano Nardella and Elio Scarabelli in 1973. Hefti and Schenk onsighted all pitches, except for two which were...
Bhagirathi IV, Matteo Della Bordella reports on successful West Face expedition
30/09/2019 - Alpinism
Bhagirathi IV, Matteo Della Bordella reports on successful West Face expedition
Italian mountaineer Matteo Della Bordella provides the details about the successful climbing expedition to the Garhwal Himalaya in India where with Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo he made the first ascent of the coveted west face of Bhagirathi IV...

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