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New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
05/12/2022 - Alpinism
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
Nathan Heald reports about the first ascent of new route up the SE Face of Nevado Lasunayoc (5,936m) in the Pumasillo massif of the Cordillera Vilcabamba in Peru. The new mixed climb, carried out with local mountaineer Leo Rasalio, is only the 9th documented ascent of this peak.
Frigo-combo climbed on Douves Blanches by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter Von Känel
17/11/2022 - Alpinism
Frigo-combo climbed on Douves Blanches by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter Von Känel
On 11/11/2022 Silvan Schüpbach and Peter Von Känel started their winter climbing season early with the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Frigo-combo' (M7/6a, 450m) on the NW Face of Douves Blanches (Point 3582m) above Val d'Arolla in Switzerland. Schüpbach reports.
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
14/11/2022 - Book-press
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).
Ondrej Huserka, Wadim Jablonski establish Gangotri Gambling in Garhwal Himalaya
07/11/2022 - Alpinism
Ondrej Huserka, Wadim Jablonski establish Gangotri Gambling in Garhwal Himalaya
In mid-October Ondrej Huserka (Slovakia) and Wadim Jabłoński (Poland) completed the first ascent of Gangotri Gambling (6c+ M6 A0, 600m) on Phaalkan Meenaar tower above the Kedar Tal valley in the Indian Garhwal Himalayas. The peak is named in honour of Andrzej Sokołowski.
Andrea Milani frees Absinthium at Capanna Bill, Dolomites, Italy
03/11/2022 - Climbing
Andrea Milani frees Absinthium at Capanna Bill, Dolomites, Italy
At the crag Capanna Bill at Passo Fedaia (Marmolada, Dolomites) Andrea Milani made the first ascent of 'Absinthium'. This 50m outing is an extension to the 8c+ 'The Search' by Mario Prinoth and the 25-year-old has now suggested 9a.
Invisible Transformation added to iconic Ajdovska deklica in Slovenia by Luka Lindič, Ines Papert
25/10/2022 - Alpinism
Invisible Transformation added to iconic Ajdovska deklica in Slovenia by Luka Lindič, Ines Papert
In August 2022 Slovenian climber Luka Lindič freed one of hardest lines in the Julian Alps of Slovenia, 'Invisible Transformation' on the iconic face Ajdovska deklica, the Heathen Maiden, of Mount Prisojnik. The testing multi-pitch close to Kranjska Gora was established ground-up with his partner Ines Papert in the summers...
Michael Wohlleben adds Bodhichitta to Westliche Dreifaltigkeit in Switzerland
12/10/2022 - Climbing
Michael Wohlleben adds Bodhichitta to Westliche Dreifaltigkeit in Switzerland
German rock climber Michael Wohlleben has made the first ascent of Bodhichitta, a highly technical 5-pitch route on Westliche Dreifaltigkeit in Switzerland.
Chris Frick (54) climbs Stop Sika (8c) at Rawyl, Switzerland
06/10/2022 - Climbing
Chris Frick (54) climbs Stop Sika (8c) at Rawyl, Switzerland
54-year-old Swiss climber Chris Frick reports about his recent repeat of Stop Sika, an 8c at Rawyl in Switzerland.
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
29/09/2022 - Alpinism
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
The report by 24-year-old mountain guide Janluca Kostner from Ortisei (Val Gardena, Italy) who between 13 and 14 September 2022 made the first rope-solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Mt. Civetta (Dolomites). Graded IX, the route on the North West Face of Punta Civetta was established between 2007 and 2008...
Hilaree Nelson and Anup Rai perish on Manaslu
27/09/2022 - Alpinism
Hilaree Nelson and Anup Rai perish on Manaslu
UPDATE 28/09/2022: The body of Hilaree Nelson has been found on Manaslu and transported to Kathmandu.
- A huge avalanche on Manalsu in Nepal struck a dozen climbers yesterday, killing Sherpa Anup Rai. In an unrelated incident on the same mountain American ski mountaineer Hilaree Nelson is reported missing after skiing...
Petzl Legend Tour Italy: Arco and the Sarca Valley, the cradle of Italian sport climbing
26/09/2022 - Climbing
Petzl Legend Tour Italy: Arco and the Sarca Valley, the cradle of Italian sport climbing
The fourth episode of the Petzl Legend Tour Italy is now online and explores the cradle of Italian sport climbing, Arco and the Sarca Valley
Caput Mundi added to Cima Roma in Brenta Dolomites by Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi, Matteo Pavana
22/09/2022 - Alpinism
Caput Mundi added to Cima Roma in Brenta Dolomites by Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi, Matteo Pavana
On the south face of Cima Roma (Brenta Dolomites) Alessandro Beber, Matteo Pavana and Alberto Fedrizzi have made the first ascent of 'Caput Mundi' (360m, VII). Pavana and Beber pro idea the details.
Mountain Warriors added to Alam Kooh in Iran by Nasim Eshqi, Sina Heidari
16/09/2022 - Alpinism
Mountain Warriors added to Alam Kooh in Iran by Nasim Eshqi, Sina Heidari
Alpinists Nasim Eshqi and Sina Heidari have made the first ascent of Mountain Warriors on the hitherto unclimbed Sun Tower on Alam Kooh (Mount Alam-kuh), at 4850m the second highest mountain in Iran.
Anna Taylor completes all 100 Mountain Rock climbs in UK
15/09/2022 - Climbing
Anna Taylor completes all 100 Mountain Rock climbs in UK
British rock climber Anna Taylor has completed all 100 climbs listed in the UK reference guidebook Mountain Rock. The 24-year-old spent 53 days climbing the routes and, notably, linking them by human power, ie cycling, running, hiking.
Jonas Hainz completes free solo ascent of Moulin Rouge on Dolomites Rotwand
14/09/2022 - Alpinism
Jonas Hainz completes free solo ascent of Moulin Rouge on Dolomites Rotwand
On 20/06/2022 South Tyrolean mountaineer Jonas Hainz made a free solo ascent of Moulin Rouge on Rotwand / Roda de Vael (2806m) on Rosengarten. This is one of the most important free solos in the Dolomites in recent years.
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
25/08/2022 - Alpinism
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik Slesova, also referred to as Peak 3850m.

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