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Orbayu, the climbing Odyssey with Nina Caprez and Cédric Lachat
17/12/2016 - Climbing
Orbayu, the climbing Odyssey with Nina Caprez and Cédric Lachat
The film Orbayu featuring Swiss climbers Nina Caprez and Cédric Lachat and their attempts to repeat Orbayu (8c, 500m) up Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain.
Yosemite climbing action by Katharina Saurwein, Jorg Verhoeven, Jacopo Larcher & Barbara Zangerl
10/11/2016 - Climbing
Yosemite climbing action by Katharina Saurwein, Jorg Verhoeven, Jacopo Larcher & Barbara Zangerl
Climbing news from Yosemite: Katharina Saurwein has repeated Final Frontier, while on El Capitan Jorg Verhoeven is attempting Dihedral Wall and Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl are trying their luck at the free version of The Zodiac.
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
Belvedere at Nago, sports climbing above Lake Garda
28/10/2016 - Climbing
Belvedere at Nago, sports climbing above Lake Garda
Rock climbing at the historic crag Belvedere at Nago (Arco, Italy), with a splendid view across Lake Garda, presented by Vertical-Life.info as part of our series 'Crags for each season'. Download the Vertical-Life APP with the routes and topos free...
Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl free Sueños de Invierno on Naranjo de Bulnes
20/10/2016 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl free Sueños de Invierno on Naranjo de Bulnes
German climbers Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl have made the first free ascent of 'Sueños de Invierno' (540m, 8a), the rock climb first ascended in 1983 by José Luis García Gallego and Miguel Ángel Díez Vives up Naranjo de Bulnes...
Tavolara, climbing on the Sardinian island shrouded in myth
18/10/2016 - Climbing
Tavolara, climbing on the Sardinian island shrouded in myth
Maurizio Oviglia explores the fascinating climbing history of Tavolara Island, off the NE coast of Sardinia, and repeats 'Affora sa nato’ (6b, 215m) first ascended by Enzo Lecis and Simone Sarti in the ’90’s.
Mongolfiera in Val di Mello: the video of Pana
10/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mongolfiera in Val di Mello: the video of Pana
The video of Pana (8b, 300m) the new multi-pitch sports climb established by Simone Pedeferri and Daniele Bianchi up the huge and secluded Mongolfiera cliff Val Masino (Italy).
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
10/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
Mike Kosterlitz was recently awarded the Nobel Prize in Physics. Apart from his scientific genius, the Scotsman was an expert climber and mountaineer who left his mark in particular in Italy’s Orco valley with his famous Fessura Kosterlitz. By Giovanni...
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
30/09/2016 - Climbing
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
In spring 2016 Austrian climbers Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher made a rare free ascent of The Shaft (Muir Wall free variation) on El Capitan, Yosemite, accompanied by Ben Lepesant who provides the report.
Martina Cufar climbs her second 8c at Bionnassay
28/09/2016 - Climbing
Martina Cufar climbs her second 8c at Bionnassay
Slovenian climber Martina Cufar has redpointed her second 8c sports climb, 'Max power' at Bionnassay, France.
Val Masino, new Mongolfiera rock climb in memory of Pietro Biasini
15/09/2016 - Alpinism
Val Masino, new Mongolfiera rock climb in memory of Pietro Biasini
On the Mongolfiera face (Val Masino, Italy) Daniele Bianchi and Simone Pedeferri have made the first ascent of 'Pana' (8b, 265m). The route is named in honour of Pietro Biasini.
Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece
14/09/2016 - Climbing
Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece
Action Directe was established by Wolfgang Güllich on 14 September 1991 at Waldkopf in Germany's Frankenjura. The route set new new standards in sport climbing and now, precisely twenty-five years after the first ascent, Planetmountain.com takes a step back in...
Le bruit des glaçons new route video on Siula Grande in Peru
12/09/2016 - Alpinism
Le bruit des glaçons new route video on Siula Grande in Peru
The video of the new route Le bruit des glaçons up the East Face of Siula Grande in Peru, established by French alpinists Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain.
Zestos Psicobloc deep water solo climbing competition in Sardinia
09/09/2016 - Climbing
Zestos Psicobloc deep water solo climbing competition in Sardinia
Marco Bussu reports about the fourth edition of Zestos Psicobloc, the only deep water solo climbing competition in Sardinia that took place on Saturday, August 27, 2016 close to Santa Caterina di Pittinuri on the island's west coast.
Siula Grande virgin East Face climbed by Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain
07/09/2016 - Alpinism
Siula Grande virgin East Face climbed by Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain
In August 2016 French alpinists Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain ascended the East Pillar and SE Ridge of Siula Grande in Peru via their new route 'Le bruit des glaçons' (ED / 1400m / 6c WI5).
Naranjo de Bulnes, Pou brothers and Colom claim first free ascent of Marejada Fuerza 6
06/09/2016 - Alpinism
Naranjo de Bulnes, Pou brothers and Colom claim first free ascent of Marejada Fuerza 6
In September 2016 Eneko Pou and Iker Pou teamed up with Neus Colom to make the first free ascent of Marejada Fuerza 6 (8a+, 500m) Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain.

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