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Dolomites Val d’Ansiei: the new icefall Night Love
22/02/2017 - Alpinism
Dolomites Val d’Ansiei: the new icefall Night Love
Francesco Rigon reports about his ascent of 'Night Love' (WI5, 35m), a probable new ice climb in Val d'Ansiei (Cadore, Italy).
Walter Bonatti archive acquired by Turin Mountain Museum
14/02/2017 - Alpinism
Walter Bonatti archive acquired by Turin Mountain Museum
In October 2016 the Turin-based Mountain Museum acquired the archive of Italian alpinist Walter Bonatti; a immense treasure that still needs to be catalogued, studied and archived for the history of mountaineering and more.
Vanessa robe neire, new mixed climb in Valle dell’Orco
30/01/2017 - Alpinism
Vanessa robe neire, new mixed climb in Valle dell’Orco
Winter mountaineering in Italy’s Piedmont region: in Valle Orco Marco Appino and Umberto Bado, together with David Sacchetti, completed Vanessa neire robe, a mixed climb they had begun in 2010. Umberto Bado provides the report.
New Dolomites icefall La Pissa climbed by Luca Vallata and Santiago Padrós
17/01/2017 - Alpinism
New Dolomites icefall La Pissa climbed by Luca Vallata and Santiago Padrós
On 04/01/2017 Luca Vallata and Santiago Padrós made what is likely to be the first ascent of La Pissa (WI6, M9?, 105m), the obvious icefall at Termine di Cadore, Dolomites.
Forest fires in Chironico and across Southern Switzerland
02/01/2017 - Environment
Forest fires in Chironico and across Southern Switzerland
During the last few days various forest fires broke out across southern Switzerland, for reasons yet to be determined. Over three dozen people were evacuated, but thankfully no one was injured. Local climber Martin Keller reports from the world-famous bouldering...
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
19/12/2016 - Climbing
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag...
Amore di Vetro, new mixed climb on Pizzo Badile by Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl
19/11/2016 - Alpinism
Amore di Vetro, new mixed climb on Pizzo Badile by Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl
On 16/11/2016 Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Amore di Vetro' (800m, M5, R) a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
25/10/2016 - Alpinism
Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
Florian Riegler reports about the first ascent of Black Pearl (8a+, 170m) a new multi-pitch route he first ascended with his brother Martin Riegler in Val Lunga, Dolomites.
British first ascents in South Georgia
24/10/2016 - Alpinism
British first ascents in South Georgia
On the remote island of South Georgia (Southern Atlantic Ocean) Stephen Venables, Skip Novak, Crag Jones, Henry Chaplin, David Lund and Simon Richardson climbed 8 mountains, including the first ascent of the spectacular Starbuck peak and the remote and difficult Mount...
Rätikon / New Prix Garantie climbed by Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel
06/10/2016 - Climbing
Rätikon / New Prix Garantie climbed by Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel
On the 4th Kirchlispitze (2494m) in Switzerland’s Rätikon massif Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel have made the first ascent of Prix Garantie (7c, 220m).
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
30/09/2016 - Climbing
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
In spring 2016 Austrian climbers Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher made a rare free ascent of The Shaft (Muir Wall free variation) on El Capitan, Yosemite, accompanied by Ben Lepesant who provides the report.
La vita è amara, Supramonte di Oliena climb in Sardinia
01/09/2016 - Climbing
La vita è amara, Supramonte di Oliena climb in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of 'La vita è amara', a climb multi-pitch climb he first ascended with Giovanni Manconi at Supramonte di Oliena, Sardinia.
Funding appeal for Scott Adamson & Kyle Dempster missing on Ogre 2, Pakistan
31/08/2016 - Alpinism
Funding appeal for Scott Adamson & Kyle Dempster missing on Ogre 2, Pakistan
A support fund has been launched to help the American alpinists Scott Adamson and Kyle Dempster, currently missing on Ogre II, Pakistan.
Sasha Di Giulian, Felipe Camargo free big wall at Pedra Riscada, Brazil
29/08/2016 - Climbing
Sasha Di Giulian, Felipe Camargo free big wall at Pedra Riscada, Brazil
American rock climber Sasha Di Giulian and Felipe Camargo from Brazil have made the first free ascent of 'Planeta dos Macacos' (8a+, 650m) up one of the main peaks in the Pedra Riscada massif in Brazil. The big wall climb...
Stube, the new sport climbing crag in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites
29/08/2016 - Climbing
Stube, the new sport climbing crag in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites
The 'Crags for each season' project in collaboration with Vertical-Life.info continues with Stube, the new crag in Itay's Höhlensteintal / Val di Landro (Dolomites)

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