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Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
08/05/2020 - Interviews
Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
Interview with Alessandro Zeni who on 11/01/2020 at Saint Loup in Switzerland made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of the routes Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. With its suggested grade of 9b it checks in as one of...
Alessandro Zeni deciphers Cryptography, 9b slab at Saint Loup in Switzerland
04/05/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni deciphers Cryptography, 9b slab at Saint Loup in Switzerland
On 11 January 2020 Italian climber Alessandro Zeni made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna at the crag Saint Loup in Switzerland. The 28-year-old has put forward the grade 9b, indicating it is...
Joshua Tree and Scott Cosgrove's visionary New Deal
20/04/2020 - Climbing
Joshua Tree and Scott Cosgrove's visionary New Deal
The video of New Deal, first ascended by Scott Cosgrove in 1988 and repeated for the first time 22 years later, by Alan Moore in 2010.
Goodbye to British climbing legend Joe Brown
16/04/2020 - Alpinism
Goodbye to British climbing legend Joe Brown
Joe Brown, one of the world’s greatest all-round climbers, passed away last night aged 89. Brown pioneered climbs throughout Great Britain, the Alps and the Greater Ranges in particular in the 1950's and '60's. Cenotaph Corner on Dinas Cromlech in...
Marcel Remy, 94, climbing Miroir de l’Argentine in Switzerland
12/04/2020 - Alpinism
Marcel Remy, 94, climbing Miroir de l’Argentine in Switzerland
The film Marcel directed by Nicolas Falquet which follows Marcel Remy as he climbs the west face of Miroir de l'Argentine in Switzerland. Father of the famous Swiss mountaineers Claude and Yves Remy, Marcel repeated the route in 2017 aged...
Sílvia Vidal completes 33-day solo ascent of Sincronia Magica on Cerro Chileno Grande, Patagonia
10/04/2020 - Alpinism
Sílvia Vidal completes 33-day solo ascent of Sincronia Magica on Cerro Chileno Grande, Patagonia
After spending 33 days alone on the wall from 07/02 - 10/03/2020, Silvia Vidal completed a new big wall climb up the West Face of Cerro Chileno Grande in Patagonia, Chile. Sincronia Magica (A3+/6a+, 1200m circa) is the first route...
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
06/04/2020 - Climbing
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
Spanish climber Iker Pou recalls his ascent 20 years ago of Action Directe, the Frankenjura masterpiece freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991. At the time, Pou’s ascent in autumn 2000 was only the second repeat after Alexander Adler and, nowadays...
Eline & Marc Le Menestrel: Chouca and Buoux, yesterday, today and tomorrow
31/03/2020 - Interviews
Eline & Marc Le Menestrel: Chouca and Buoux, yesterday, today and tomorrow
Chouca at Buoux is one of those routes that has marked the history of sport climbing. First ascended in 1985 by Marc Le Menestrel, it was recently repeated by his daughter Eline Le Menestrel. This was an excellent pretext...
Lena Marie Müller repeats Prinzip Hoffnung, Beat Kammerlander’s perfect trad climb at Bürs
03/03/2020 - Climbing
Lena Marie Müller repeats Prinzip Hoffnung, Beat Kammerlander’s perfect trad climb at Bürs
German rock climber Lena Müller has repeated Prinzip Hoffnung, the 8b/+ E9/E10 trad climb located at Bürser Platte, Austria freed in 2009 by Beat Kammerlander.
Young French FFME team with Arnaud Petit establish new route in Wadi Rum, Jordan
26/02/2020 - Alpinism
Young French FFME team with Arnaud Petit establish new route in Wadi Rum, Jordan
French mountain guide Arnaud Petit and Jonathan Crison have led a young FFME expedition to Jordan where they established a new route up Jebel Rum in the Wadi Rum massif. Voie du Coeur (430m, 7c+ max, 7b obligatory) was first...
Rochers de Gagnières, Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet add mixed climb to Chablais Alps
04/02/2020 - Alpinism
Rochers de Gagnières, Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet add mixed climb to Chablais Alps
On 25/01/2020 alpinists Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet made the first ascent of Fury Road (600m, M6 WI6 45°), a new mixed climb up the north face of the Rochers de Gagnières, not far from the Dent du Midi mountain...
Siebe Vanhee fires fine big walls in Cochamó valley, Chile
31/01/2020 - Alpinism
Siebe Vanhee fires fine big walls in Cochamó valley, Chile
Belgian rock climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his ascents of three big wall climbs in Cochamó valley in Chilean Patagonia: repeats of Sundance on Cerro Trinidad with Diego Diazaguilera and El Condor Pasa on Trinidad Central with Max Didier, and...
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala
25/01/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala
Chris Warner from Australia reports about a rock climbing trip to Kassala in western Sudan with Jonny Baker which resulted in a handful of new routes in the Taka Mountains,
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
16/01/2020 - Alpinism
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
On Sass de la Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites, the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of Rapunzel, a new ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M7+.
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram...
Miles Adamson tops Too Tall to Fall, huge highball at Bishop
13/01/2020 - Climbing
Miles Adamson tops Too Tall to Fall, huge highball at Bishop
26-year-old Miles Adamson from Canada has made the first ascent of Too Tall to Fall, a huge highball boulder problem at the Buttermilks in Bishop, California, USA.

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