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Washington Route, new climb on Fitz Roy, Patagonia by Schaefer and Rutherford
24/02/2011 - Alpinism
Washington Route, new climb on Fitz Roy, Patagonia by Schaefer and Rutherford
American climbers Michael Schaefer and Kate Rutherford have established the Washington Route (VI, 5.10, A1) on Fitz Roy, Patagonia.
Triglav, hard winter ascent in Slovenia by Grmovsek and Krajnc
16/02/2011 - Alpinism
Triglav, hard winter ascent in Slovenia by Grmovsek and Krajnc
Interview with Andrej Grmovsek who over a three day period in January and February 2011 carried out an extremely important winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) together with fellow Slovenian alpinist Luka Krajnc: Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
28/01/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
On 25 Janaury 2011 Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards installed Camp 2 at 6500m on Gasherbrum II. In doing so they carried out another important step in their attempt to carry out the first winter ascent of the...
Adamello ski mountaineering in Italy
14/12/2010 - Alpinism
Adamello ski mountaineering in Italy
Ski mountaineering on the largest glacier in the Italian Alps. Five ski tours described by the Mountain Guide Cain Olsen: Calotta, Ficazza, Pisgana, Pisganino and the legendary Adamello Tour.
Patagonia, Holzknecht and Moroder climb Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre
19/11/2010 - Alpinism
Patagonia, Holzknecht and Moroder climb Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre
In Patagonia Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder have climbed Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre in rapid alpine style. In the meantime Rolando Garibotti has removed 17 bolts from Cerro Torre placed last year by the team headed by David Lama.
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
26/10/2010 - Alpinism
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
From 20 - 23 September 2010 Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first free ascent of the John Harlin Direttissima up the North Face of the Eiger. The duo exited via the Heckmair route...
Simone Pedeferri and the first free ascent of Non sei più della mia banda
05/10/2010 - Climbing
Simone Pedeferri and the first free ascent of Non sei più della mia banda
Between the 2nd and 3rd of September 2010 the Italian climber Simone Pedeferri carried out the first free ascent of "Non sei più della mia banda" (700m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obbl.), the route first ascended by Stefano "Pizza" Pizzagalli, Domenico...
La Bella Addormentata, new icefall in Valsugana
10/02/2010 - Alpinism
La Bella Addormentata, new icefall in Valsugana
On 04/02/2010 Alessandro Beber and Peter Moser carried out the first ascent of La Bella Addormentata (170m, 6+) in Valsugana, Northern Italy
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
25/11/2009 - Climbing
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
Austrian Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried has made the first ascent of La lingua pura (7c, 6c oblig, 200m) on the North Face of Monte Monaco close to San Vito lo Capo in Sicily, Italy, together with Paul Mair.
Never Sleeping Wall, climbing on Sicily
18/11/2009 - Climbing
Never sleeping Wall, climbing on Sicily
The Never sleeping Wall, an inspiring crag close to San Vito lo Capo in Sicily, Italy introduced by Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried.
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking...
The biggest cathedral in the world: Florian Riegler and Via della Cattedrale on the Marmolada, Dolomites
06/08/2009 - Climbing
The biggest cathedral in the world: Florian Riegler and Via della Cattedrale on the Marmolada, Dolomites
Last June Florian Riegler, climbing with Rebecca Finch, climbed "Via della cattedrale" (max 8a+, 21 pitches) on the South Face of the Marmolada in 12 hours. This is probably the first repeat after the first free ascent at the hands...
In memory of Giuliano De Marchi
09/06/2009 - Alpinism
In memory of Giuliano De Marchi
On 5 June Giuliano De Marchi, a doctor and strong mountaineer from Belluno, died on Monte Antelao, Dolomites. Michel Barbiero, his companion in Alaska 2007, remembers him.
Melloblocco #6 and the treasure map
11/05/2009 - Climbing
Melloblocco #6 and the treasure map
The sixth Melloblocco 2009, the world's most important bouldering meeting, broke all records from 07 - 10 May 2009. At least 2500-3000 climbers gathered in Val Masino and Val di Mello and more than 6000 people visited the valley for...
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Interview with Paolo Rabbia who from 29/12/2008 to 28/02/2009 carried out the first ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps in winter without the help of mechanical transport.
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
10/03/2009 - Alpinism
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and...

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