The biggest cathedral in the world: Florian Riegler and Via della Cattedrale on the Marmolada, Dolomites

In 1983 Graziano Maffei, Mariano Frizzera and Paolo Leoni were the first to climb these compact slabs and enormous roof. After 10 days they reached the highest point on the "Canna d'organo", the organ pipe. It must have been a great adventure for the nice trio from the Trentino region of Northern Italy. 850m, 6+, A4, no bolts! A milestone which however did not receive the attention and recognition it deserved. Pietro dal Prà, a talented Italian climber, woke the Sleeping Beauty from her sleep and managed to make the first free ascent in 2004, 21 magnificent pitches up to 8a+.

The right moment finally arrived at the start of June and we set off towards the South Face of the Marmolada. I was really happy to try the "Cathedral" today. The individual moves had been flying round in my head for the last couple of days. The start was a bit cold but I was highly motivated so I started climbing. The first pitches ran smoothly. We stopped briefly before the first 7c pitch and waited for the sun. The first rays warmed my back, I set off and with cold fingers I struggled more than on previous tries, but I reached the belay nevertheless. I felt tired and began to doubt whether I'd be able to redpoint the entire route. But the pitches that followed (7b, 7c, 6c...) ran smoothly and I began to regain faith in myself.

We reached the belay beneath the 8a+. I took a short break. My pulse started to race, this was going to be my first attempt. I was worried about a few sensitive moves and a tricky clip. I changed shoes (Miura vx) for a better grip on the small footholds. I managed to climb past the crux slab, then traversed on the underclings which suited my style better. The athletic moves strained my stamina. "Flo, don't let go now!!!" Rebecca shouted from the belay below. I pulled out all the stops and with batteries running on reserve power I reached the saving side hold, moved my feet across and "Yes!", I'd done it. 10 pitches we didn't know now awaited. We followed a line of cracks, chimneys and slabs up beautiful Marmolada limestone. Five pitches - a dream! And the final two were true heaven, a perfect finish!

We reached the highest point on the "Organ pipe" and completed our aim. Each pitch without falling, in only 12 hours! We were that quick above all thanks to Rebecca, my climbing companion. We had chosen to climb without a haulbag to be quick and despite wearing a rucksack she seconded me really quickly.

The tension oozed out of my body. Civetta, Pelmo and Mont Agner faced us, powerfully. It was a great feeling to be up here! "La cattedrale" is the most beautiful route I've ever climbed in the Dolomites. But this is exactly what Graziano Maffei and Pietro dal Prà said years ago.

Florian Riegler
22/07/2009

VIA DELLA CATTEDRALE
Dolomites, Marmolada South Face Punta Rocca (3309m)
8a+, 850m, 21 pitches
First ascent: Graziano Maffei, Mariano Frizzera and Paolo Leoni, 1983, 1985 (VI+ & A4)
First free ascent: Pietro dal Pra, accompanied by Michele Guerrini, August 2004