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Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
21/01/2017 - Alpinism
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
On Wednesday evening Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias passed away in Trieste. The acclaimed Italian alpinist, writer and theater director was an academic of the Italian Alpine Club and, for three decades, president of GISM, the Italian Group of Mountain Writers....
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine...
El Chico, Dry tooling enchainment by Bonino and Colay up Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc
05/01/2017 - Alpinism
El Chico, Dry tooling enchainment by Bonino and Colay up Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc
Alpinism: on 7/12/2016 Enrico Bonino and Olivier Colay made a dry-tooling reinterpretation of the routes Pinelli-Sabbadini, Lenoir and Ottoz, to forge El Chico (M6+ 4° 250m) on Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc massif.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: Alexey Dengin and Shin Woonseon win in USA
19/12/2016 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: Alexey Dengin and Shin Woonseon win in USA
The first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 took place in Durango, Colorado, USA, last weekend and was won by Russia’s Alexey Dengin and Korea’s Shin Woonseon. The Speed event was won by the Russians Maria Tolokonina and...
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
29/11/2016 - Alpinism
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the...
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea
The World Bouldering Champion Petra Klingler from Switzerland reports about her recent travels to South Korea where she took part in the first Mudeungsan Bouldering Festival.
Rätikon / New Prix Garantie climbed by Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel
06/10/2016 - Climbing
Rätikon / New Prix Garantie climbed by Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel
On the 4th Kirchlispitze (2494m) in Switzerland’s Rätikon massif Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel have made the first ascent of Prix Garantie (7c, 220m).
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
30/09/2016 - Climbing
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
In spring 2016 Austrian climbers Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher made a rare free ascent of The Shaft (Muir Wall free variation) on El Capitan, Yosemite, accompanied by Ben Lepesant who provides the report.
La vita è amara, Supramonte di Oliena climb in Sardinia
01/09/2016 - Climbing
La vita è amara, Supramonte di Oliena climb in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of 'La vita è amara', a climb multi-pitch climb he first ascended with Giovanni Manconi at Supramonte di Oliena, Sardinia.
Caroline Ciavaldini / Turkey Crack at Cadarese
12/08/2016 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini / Turkey Crack at Cadarese
In mid-May French rock climber Caroline Ciavaldini made a rare ascent of Turkey Crack, an 8a trad climb at Cadarese. This is the story of her rare ascent.
Chris Sharma multi-pitch project at Mont-Rebei in Spain
17/06/2016 - Climbing
Chris Sharma multi-pitch project at Mont-Rebei in Spain
The video documenting the attempts of Chris Sharma & Klemen Bečan to free a 250m multi-pitch sports climb the American established at Congost de Mont-Rebei in Spain.
Angelo Mio, new rock climb in Val Gadena
14/06/2016 - Climbing
Angelo Mio, new rock climb in Val Gadena
Alessio Roverato provides the report and topo of Angelo Mio (250m, 7a +, 6c obl), a new rock climb he established together with Angela Carrar on Monte Spitz in Val Gadena (Valsugana VI).
Touching the void - immortal stories
09/06/2016 - Alpinism
Touching the void - immortal stories
PlayAlpinismo films: Touching the void by Kevin Macdonald recounts the dramatic and immortal story of Joe Simpson and Simon Yates and their first ascent of the West Face of Siula Grande (Andes, Peru). A film and a story about the...
Haywire, the short film by Cheyne Lempe big wall climbing on Baffin Island
28/04/2016 - Alpinism
Haywire, the short film by Cheyne Lempe big wall climbing on Baffin Island
Ben Lepesant reviews Haywire, the short film shot and directed by American alpinist Cheyne Lempe who in May 2015, together with Dave Allfrey, forged a worrying new climb called Deconstructing Jenga (VI, 5.9+, A3+) up Great Cross Pillar on Baffin...
Nanga Parbat in winter and the Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger climbing partnership
24/03/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter and the Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger climbing partnership
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger: how the climbing partnership was formed that, together with Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon, paved the way to the historic first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126m, Karakorum, Pakistan).
Grande Rocheuse Voie Originale, first ski and snowboard descent by Capozzi, Galli, Herry and Trento
Grande Rocheuse Voie Originale, first ski and snowboard descent by Capozzi, Galli, Herry and Trento
Julien Herry reports about the first ski and snowboard descent of the Voie Originale down the South Face of Grande Rocheuse (4102m) in the Mont Blanc massif, carried out together with Davide Capozzi, Lambert Galli and Denis Trento.

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