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Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
31/08/2022 - Climbing
Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
30 years ago today German climbing legend Wolfgang Güllich died in a car crash aged just 31. He established the world’s first 8b, the world’s first 8b+, the world’s first 8c and, with Action Directe in Frankenjura, the world’s first 9a. A truly visionary figure, his influence extends well beyond...
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
25/08/2022 - Alpinism
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik Slesova, also referred to as Peak 3850m.
Bondit Peak climbed in Pakistan by Hungarian expedition
11/08/2022 - Alpinism
Bondit Peak climbed in Pakistan by Hungarian expedition
Four Hungarian mountaineers, Laszlo Szasz, Bence Kerekes, Marton Nagy and Viktor Agoston, made the first ascent of the hitherto Bondit Peak in Pakistan. The four climbers summited 5980m in pure alpine style via the NE Ridge (1500m, 80°, WI 4).
Monte La Banca climb in Italian Dolomites dedicated to Davide Miotti
03/08/2022 - Alpinism
Monte La Banca climb in Italian Dolomites dedicated to Davide Miotti
Maurizio Giordani and Nancy Paoletto have made the first ascent of ‘Su e giù' on Monte La Banca (2680m) close to the San Pellegrino Pass in the Dolomites, Italy. The new rock climb in the Marmolada group is dedicated to Davide Miotti.
New climb on Siula Grande in Peru by Matteo Della Bordella, Marco Majori
02/08/2022 - Alpinism
New climb on Siula Grande in Peru by Matteo Della Bordella, Marco Majori
From 20 to 24 July 2022 Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Marco Majori established Valore Alpino, a new route on Siula Grande (6344m) in Peru.
Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher free climb Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower
27/07/2022 - Alpinism
Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher free climb Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower
Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (6251m) in the Trango Tower range in Pakistan has been repeated free by Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher. Zangerl is the first woman to complete a free ascent of what is regarded as the hardest and most beautiful big wall free climb at altitude in...
Alex Honnold, Cedar Wright and the 2014 free solo of El Sendero Luminoso
19/07/2022 - Climbing
Alex Honnold, Cedar Wright and the 2014 free solo of El Sendero Luminoso
Cedar Wright has released support footage of Alex Honnold's 2014 free solo of El Sendero Luminoso (7b+/c, 500m) on El Toro, Potrero Chico, Mexico.
Adieu Marcel Rémy
11/07/2022 - Alpinism
Adieu Marcel Rémy
Swiss mountaineer Marcel Rémy, father of the famous alpinists and rock climbers Yves and Claude Remy, has died at the age of 99
PlanetMountain.com and the future
28/06/2022 - Events
PlanetMountain.com and the future
Vinicio Stefanello leaves planetmountain.com. The site, which for 22 years has been a reference point for all those who love the mountains, mountaineering and climbing, continues under the leadership of Nicholas Hobley.
Siula Grande in Peru the new objective for Matteo Della Bordella and Italian High Mountain Military Corps
23/06/2022 - Alpinism
Siula Grande in Peru the new objective for Matteo Della Bordella and Italian High Mountain Military Corps
Elite Italian High Mountain Military Corps alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni, Marco Majori, Filip Babicz and Stefano Cordaro have set off on an expedition to Peru where they will attempt a new route up the east face of Siula Grande.
Dolorock 2022: over 200 climbers celebrate in Val di Landro, Dolomites
02/06/2022 - Events
Dolorock 2022: over 200 climbers celebrate in Val di Landro, Dolomites
The Dolorock Climbing Festival that took place from 27 - 29 May in Val di Landro / Höhlensteintal proved to be a great success, with over 200 climbers taking part in the great climbing meeting of the Dolomites.
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
30/05/2022 - Alpinism
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
Claude Gardien, historic editor-in-chief of the French magazine Vertical, remembers Simone Badier who passed away on 18 March 2022. Born in 1936 and as talented as she was discreet, she was one of the leading figures in women's climbing and mountaineering.
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2022 this weekend in Val di Landro, Dolomites
25/05/2022 - Events
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2022 this weekend in Val di Landro, Dolomites
From 27 to 29 May 2022 the 9th Dolorock Climbing Festival will take place in Val di Landro, Italy. Open to all, this is the biggest climbing meeting in the Dolomites, located a stone’s throw from the Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
Two IFSC World Cups cancelled in China due to pandemic
20/05/2022 - Competitions
Two IFSC World Cups cancelled in China due to pandemic
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) has announced the cancellation of two World Cups that were scheduled this autumn in Wujiang (Lead & Speed) and Chongqing (Lead & Boulder) due to concerns over the COVID-19 pandemic.
Landro Classica, the oldest crag in Höhlensteintal in the Dolomites
19/05/2022 - Climbing
Landro Classica, the oldest crag in Höhlensteintal in the Dolomites
Daniel Rogger introduces Landro Classica, the oldest crag in Höhlensteintal / Valle di Landro. From 27 to 29 May 2022 this valley will host the Dolorock Climbing Festival, the international climbing meeting of the Dolomites
Jugal Spire in Nepal climbed by Tim Miller, Paul Ramsden
18/05/2022 - Alpinism
Jugal Spire in Nepal climbed by Tim Miller, Paul Ramsden
Interview with British mountaineer Paul Ramsden who with Tim Miller completed an alpine style first ascent of The Phantom Line (1200m, ED+) up the north face of a previously unclimbed and unnamed 6563m peak now called Jugal Spire in the Jugal Himal region of Nepal

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