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Roger Schaeli, Sean Villanueva on Eiger first one day ascent of La Vida es Silbar
15/08/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Sean Villanueva on Eiger first one day ascent of La Vida es Silbar
Details of the first one-day ascent of La Vida es Silbar up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland, carried out on 23 July by Roger Schaeli and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll.
Lucie Hrozová dials Digital Crack on Mont Blanc
14/08/2019 - Alpinism
Lucie Hrozová dials Digital Crack on Mont Blanc
Czech climber Lucie Hrozová has repeated Digital Crack, the famous 8a freed by Thierry Renault and Alain Ghersen above Arête des Cosmiques on Aiguille du Midi in the Mont Blanc massif.
Two rucksacks, one friendship. Ivo Ferrari and remembers Marco Anghileri
07/07/2019 - Alpinism
Two rucksacks, one friendship. Ivo Ferrari and remembers Marco Anghileri
Ivo Ferrari remembers Marco Anghileri, his friend and mountaineer from Lecco.
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the...
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
14/06/2019 - Alpinism
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
In September 2019 the Polish mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki will receive the Piolets d'Or Carrière 2019. In the past this prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington, Wojciech Kurtyka,...
Norway Lofoten Islands new rock climbs
09/06/2019 - Alpinism
Norway Lofoten Islands new rock climbs
In May 2019 Bernat Bilarrassa, Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve established two new rock climbs in the Kirkefjord area of the Lofoten Islands in Norway
Laura Rogora fires Rèveille-toi, new 9a at Cueva of Collepardo
04/06/2019 - Climbing
Laura Rogora fires Rèveille-toi, new 9a at Cueva of Collepardo
Roman rock climber Laura Rogora has made the first ascent of Rèveille-toi, 9a sports climb at the crag Cueva di Collepardo, Italy.
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
27/05/2019 - Interviews
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
Interview with German mountaineer David Göttler after his attempt to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen. The 40-year-old climbed the Normal Route on the Nepalese side of the mountain and aborted his attempt at an altitude of 8650 meters, a mere...
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
21/05/2019 - Climbing
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her efforts to rebolt parts of Mingus, the 300m multi-pitch climb in the Verdon Gorge, France, first freed onsight by Lynn Hill in 1994 with difficulties up to 8a.
Val di Mello: agreement reached for contested path for the disabled
17/05/2019 - Environment
Val di Mello: agreement reached for contested path for the disabled
After months of controversy concerning a planned expansion in Val di Mello, Italy, of an existing path that would make it accessible to wheelchairs and the disabled, an agreement has now been reached to protect the pristine valley. The peaceful...
Charlie Woodburn’s gritstone masterpiece Harder, Faster at Black Rocks
11/05/2019 - Climbing
Charlie Woodburn’s gritstone masterpiece Harder, Faster at Black Rocks
In November 2000 Charlie Woodburn made the first ascent of Harder, Faster at Black Rocks in England. Almost 20 years later, this remains one of the most dangerous and least repeated trad climbs in Great Britain.
Caroline Sinno at Fontainebleau climbs her first 8B, L'insoutenable Légèreté de l'Autre
02/05/2019 - Climbing
Caroline Sinno at Fontainebleau climbs her first 8B, L'insoutenable Légèreté de l'Autre
French climber Caroline Sinno has climbed her first 8B boulder problem, L'insoutenable Légèreté de l'Autre, at Fontainebleau
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain,...
Melloblocco... an end and new beginning
16/04/2019 - Climbing
Melloblocco... an end and new beginning
Melloblocco, the largest climbing meeting in the world that has taken place for 14 years in Val Masino - Val di Mello before going on tour to Cresciano in Switzerland, will not take place this May as per tradition.
Keita Kurakami climbs 8c+ rope solo at Mt. Futago in Japan
28/03/2019 - Climbing
Keita Kurakami climbs 8c+ rope solo at Mt. Futago in Japan
Japanese climber Keita Kurakami has made a rope-solo ascent of Mare, an 8c+ sport climb at Mt. Futago in Japan. This is likely to be the most difficult rope-solo ever of a single pitch sports climb.
Climbing at risk in Gampians, Australia
18/03/2019 - Climbing
Climbing at risk in Gampians, Australia
Climbing at the Grampians, one of Australia’s premier climbing areas, is at risk of being banned. An online petition to help safeguard the area’s future has been launched.

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