411 News found

Winter mountaineering: Enrico Mosetti reports about the first ascent of Panta rei, a new mixed climb in Valbruna (Julian Alps, Italy) first ascended on 24/01/2017 with Tine Cuder.

Last weekend South Korea’s Han Na Rai Song and HeeYong Park won the fourth and penultimate stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 in Saas Fee, Switzerland. The Speed event was won by the Russians Vladimir Kartashev and Ekaterina Koshcheeva.

The first stage of the ISMF Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2017 took place at Font Blanca in Andorra last weekend. Saturday’s Individual race was won by France’s Laetitia Roux and Germany’s Anton Palzer, while Sunday’s Vertical race was won by Sweden’s Emelie Forsberg and Switzerland’s Marti Werner.

Winter mountaineering: on 31/12/2016 at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites the alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini climbed in a singole day Via Comici-Dimai on Cima Grande (in 1:45), the Cassin route up Cima Ovest (2:45) and the Innerkofler route up Cima Piccola (1:15).

On 23/12/2016 the mountain guides Vittorio Messini and Isidor Poppeller made the first ascent of 'Pinzga Stier' (WI5, 1200m), a new ice climb up Hochbirghöhe in Austria.

Interview with Italian climber Silvio Reffo who recently repeated two of Sardinia’s most difficult multi-pitch sport climbs: Hotel Supramonte at Gola di Gorropu and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco at Punta Giradili. Climbing onsight, on both routes Reffo fell just once and freed the pitches on his second attempt.

On 16/11/2016 Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Amore di Vetro' (800m, M5, R) a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.

On 20 September 2016 Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson and Marcus Palm made what is likely to be the first ascent of Jang Tsang Go (6300m) in Tibet. The route is called Dom and graded AI4 M5.

Enrico Bonino talks about a modern interpretation of the Salluard climbs (plus variations) up the West Face of Aguille d'Entrèves in the Mont Blanc massif. The route was climbed in two stages, on 20/10/2016 by Enrico Bonino and Andrea Racchelli, and completed on 22/10/2016 by Bonino together with Ilaria Sonatore...

Italian climber Silvio Reffo reports about the first one day free ascent, carried out on 16/10/2016, of Horror Vacui (8b+, 180m), the multi-pitch sports climb established by Rolando Larcher in spring 2015 at the Scoglio dei Ciclopi, Monte Cimo (Val d’Adige).

The high-pressure system, an unbridled love for the mountains, a fortnight, one tent and the thirst for a simple and wandering form of alpinism, with all Mont Blanc's summits and thousands of wonders in this alpine playground. This is the story of a mountaineering trip carried out by Giovanni Zaccaria...

Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her July 2016 ascent, carried out with Merlin Benoit, of 'Divine Providence' (ED+, 7b+, 900m) up Grand Pilier d’Angle, Mont Blanc. This is likely to be the first free female ascent of this route established from 5 -8 July 1984 by Patrick Gabarrou and...

The video of the 7th Tor des Géants, the trail running competition won by Oliviero Bosatelli and Lisa Borzani across the Valle d'Aostra mountains from 11 - 18 September 2016.

On 31 August 2016 Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek made the second free ascent of the difficult Spanish Route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites.

In Patagonia Canadian alpinist Marc-André Leclerc has made the first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger (2685m).

Italy's Oliviero Bosatelli and Lisa Borzani were in the lead last night at the end of the third day of Tor des Géants 2016.