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Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
17/01/2019 - Alpinism
Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
Enrico Sasso reports about his 11 December 2018 solo first ascent of Rose (ED, 380m, WI4, M7) a new mixed route up the north face of Marguareis in the Ligurian Alps, Italy.
Agostino Gustin Gazzera, goodbye to the spirit of the mountaineer
17/01/2019 - Alpinism
Agostino Gustin Gazzera, goodbye to the spirit of the mountaineer
In memory of Agostino 'Gustin' Gazzera. Born in 1927, the Italian alpinist died on 11 January 2019 after demonstrating a lifetime’s love for the mountains.
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
10/01/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb cram (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
10/12/2018 - Alpinism
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
On Asta Nunaat in eastern Greenland Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari have made the first ascent of 'Gioielli Viventi', a new rock climb (320m, VI+/A1) established on 9 August 2018. This is likely to be only the second ascent of this mountain, after the first carried out in 2006 by...
Le Quatuor à cordes, new climb up Lobuche East above Nepal's Khumbu valley
03/12/2018 - Alpinism
Le Quatuor à cordes, new climb up Lobuche East above Nepal's Khumbu valley
Himalayan climbing: French mountaineers Aurélien Vaissière, Antonin Cecchini, Laurent Thévenot and Symon Welfringer have established Le Quattro à Cordes, a new route up Lobuche East (6120m) above the Khumbu valley in Nepal.
Jess Roskelley and Scott Coldiron climb A Peak Central Couloir in Cabinet Mountains, USA
30/11/2018 - Alpinism
Jess Roskelley and Scott Coldiron climb A Peak Central Couloir in Cabinet Mountains, USA
The Central Couloir of A Peak in the Cabinet Mountains, Montana, USA, has been climbed by Jess Roskelley and Scott Coldiron.
Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman add The Indirect American to Mt MacDonald, Canada
26/11/2018 - Alpinism
Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman add The Indirect American to Mt MacDonald, Canada
Chris Wright (USA/UK) and Graham Zimmerman (USA/NZ) have made the first ascent of a long, difficult mixed route on the North Face of Mount MacDonald in the Selkirk Mountains in British Columbia, Canada. 1000 meters long, the Indirect American was climbed from 11 - 13 November 2018 and deals with...
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
16/11/2018 - Alpinism
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
Italian alpinist Maurizio Giordani reports about his climbing expedition to Pakistan during which, with Massimo Faletti, he completed a stylish ascent of Water World, a beautiful and difficult big wall up the hitherto unclimbed Kiris Peak (5428m). The other expedition members included Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomin, Cristiano Marinello, Andrea Peron,...
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
17/10/2018 - Alpinism
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
Last Saturday a young man fell into a crevasse on the Col del Toula glacier (Mont Blanc). He is currently in hospital in Sallanches. The report and considerations of Ezio Marlier, a well-known alpinist and mountain guide from Valle d'Aosta who, together with Rifugio Torino hut warden and Mountain Guide...
Peutérey Integral, the more interesting way to the top of Mont Blanc. By Jorg Verhoeven
29/08/2018 - Alpinism
Peutérey Integral, the more interesting way to the top of Mont Blanc. By Jorg Verhoeven
Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven talks about his ascent of the Peutérey Integral ridge on Mont Blanc, carried out with Martin Schidlowski from 13 - 15 July 2018.
Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák climb new route up Kyajo Ri in Nepal
24/08/2018 - Alpinism
Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák climb new route up Kyajo Ri in Nepal
Climbing in alpine style from 25 to 28 May 2018, the Czech mountaineers Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák made the first ascent of Lapse of Reason, a new route up Kyajo Ri (6186 m) in Nepal.
Dani Arnold interview after 2-hour 4-minute Grandes Jorasses Cassin Route ascent
16/08/2018 - Interviews
Dani Arnold interview after 2-hour 4-minute Grandes Jorasses Cassin Route ascent
Interview with Swiss alpinist Daniel Arnold who on 27/07/2018 climbed the Cassin route up Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif in a record-breaking 2 hours and 4 minutes.
Grivel 200: alpinism, climbing gear, techniques and evolutioN
02/08/2018 - Alpinism
Grivel 200: alpinism, climbing gear, techniques and evolutioN
Second episode dedicated to Espace Grivel, or to the first 200 years of the history of Grivel and alpinism.
Climbing Oscars to Reinhold Messner, Adam Ondra, Romain Desgranges at the Arco Rock Legends 2018
30/07/2018 - Events
Climbing Oscars to Reinhold Messner, Adam Ondra, Romain Desgranges at the Arco Rock Legends 2018
On Friday, 27th July 2018 the coveted Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn di Aquafi was awarded to Reinhold Messner during the 13th Arco Rock Legends awards. Adam Ondra won the Wild Country Rock Award and Romain Desgranges the La Sportiva Competition Award. The other candidates were Angela Eiter, Alexander Megos, Janja...
Grivel: history, wonders and the first 200 years of mountaineering
19/07/2018 - Alpinism
Grivel: history, wonders and the first 200 years of mountaineering
A day with Gioachino Gobbi in Courmayeur, examining the history of Grivel and alpinism in the brand new Espace Grivel that will be inaugurated on 5 August 2018.
Ciao Monica
18/07/2018 - Alpinism
Ciao Monica
Two days ago Monica Campo Bagatin passed away. For over 35 years she ran the hut Rifugio Casèra Bosconero in Val di Zoldo, Dolomites and she was the first woman to join the Val Zoldana mountain rescue squad. On 28 July she would have received at Rocca Pietore the Pelmo...

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