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Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
16/08/2017 - Alpinism
Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
In July 2017 a Chilean expedition comprised of Andres Bosch, Alejandro Mora and Armando Montero has made two first ascents close to Broad Peak and K2 in Pakistan’s Karakorum range: Praqpa Ri South 7046m and the new route Mirchi up...
Federica Mingolla climbs Vertical Chimera on Civetta, Dolomites
04/08/2017 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs Vertical Chimera on Civetta, Dolomites
Federica Mingolla and Francesco Rigon have repeated Chimera Verticale (IX, 600m + initial pedestal), the difficult alpine climb up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites) first ascended by Alessandro Baù, Daniele Geremia, Alessandro Beber and Luca Matteraglia.
Don Quixote, three legs and one prothesis up the Marmolada South Face. By Siebe Vanhee
26/07/2017 - Alpinism
Don Quixote, three legs and one prothesis up the Marmolada South Face. By Siebe Vanhee
Belgian climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his repeat of Don Quixote up the Marmolada in the Dolomites together with paraclimber Frederik Leys. First climbed by Heinz Mariacher and Reinhard Schiestl in 1979, the route is considered a classic outing up...
Katie Bono sets female Denali speed record
21/07/2017 - Interviews
Katie Bono sets female Denali speed record
Interview with American alpinist Katie Bono who on 13-14 June 2017 ascended and descended the West Buttress route on Denali (McKinley) in just 21 hours and 6 minutes. This is a female speed record and one of the fastest known...
Mount Huntington: Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley climb complete South Ridge in Alaska
05/07/2017 - Alpinism
Mount Huntington: Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley climb complete South Ridge in Alaska
Interview with American alpinists Jess Roskelley who made the first ascent of the South Ridge on Mount Huntington (3731m) in Alaska with Clint Helander. Called the Gauntlet Ridge (Alaska Grade 6, M6, A0, 95° snow, 2,500m), the committing new route...
Kilian Jornet summits Everest twice in a week
29/05/2017 - Alpinism
Kilian Jornet summits Everest twice in a week
After having summited Everest on 22 May 2017, on 27 May Spain’s Kilian Jornet Burgada reached the summit of the world’s highest mountain for the second time in one week. Jornet Burgada climbed without supplementary oxygen and in 17 hours...
Grandes Jorasses Pointe Whymper / Denis Trento skis SW Couloir
Grandes Jorasses Pointe Whymper / Denis Trento skis SW Couloir
At the end of March 2017 Denis Trento made what might well be the first integral ski descent of the SW Couloir of Pointe Whymper. The video and report of the Italian mountain guide and extreme skier about this ski...
Angelika Rainer powers through French Connection in the Dolomites
24/03/2017 - Climbing
Angelika Rainer powers through French Connection in the Dolomites
In February 2017 Angelika Rainer from the South Tyrol repeated French Connection at the crag Tomorrow's World in the Italian Dolomites. Graded D15-, it is considered one of the hardest total dry routes in the world.
Jeff Lowe awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière 2017
03/03/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière 2017
American alpinist Jeff Lowe has been awarded the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize will be assigned during the 25th edition of the mountaineering prize that will be celebrated in Grenoble, France, from 12 - 15 April. In the...
Climbing in Patagonia: Pou brothers add Aguja Guillaumet ascent
01/03/2017 - Alpinism
Climbing in Patagonia: Pou brothers add Aguja Guillaumet ascent
Spanish mountaineers Iker Pou and Eneko Pou have established a new mixed climb up the East Face of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia. Called 'Aupa 40', the 525m outing breaches difficulties up to 5+, M7 85˚.
Panta rei, new icefall in Valbruna, Italy, climbed by Enrico Mosetti and Tine Cuder
29/01/2017 - Alpinism
Panta rei, new icefall in Valbruna, Italy, climbed by Enrico Mosetti and Tine Cuder
Winter mountaineering: Enrico Mosetti reports about the first ascent of Panta rei, a new mixed climb in Valbruna (Julian Alps, Italy) first ascended on 24/01/2017 with Tine Cuder.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: Han Na Rai Song and HeeYong Park win in Saas Fee
26/01/2017 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: Han Na Rai Song and HeeYong Park win in Saas Fee
Last weekend South Korea’s Han Na Rai Song and HeeYong Park won the fourth and penultimate stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 in Saas Fee, Switzerland. The Speed event was won by the Russians Vladimir Kartashev and Ekaterina...
Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2017, Laetitia Roux, Anton Palzer, Marti Werner and Emelie Forsberg win in Andorra
23/01/2017 - Competitions
Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2017, Laetitia Roux, Anton Palzer, Marti Werner and Emelie Forsberg win in Andorra
The first stage of the ISMF Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2017 took place at Font Blanca in Andorra last weekend. Saturday’s Individual race was won by France’s Laetitia Roux and Germany’s Anton Palzer, while Sunday’s Vertical race was won by...
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter trilogy by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
19/01/2017 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter trilogy by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
Winter mountaineering: on 31/12/2016 at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites the alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini climbed in a singole day Via Comici-Dimai on Cima Grande (in 1:45), the Cassin route up Cima Ovest (2:45) and...
Felbertal, another big new icefall up Hochbirghöhe in the High Tauern
30/12/2016 - Alpinism
Felbertal, another big new icefall up Hochbirghöhe in the High Tauern
On 23/12/2016 the mountain guides Vittorio Messini and Isidor Poppeller made the first ascent of 'Pinzga Stier' (WI5, 1200m), a new ice climb up Hochbirghöhe in Austria.
Silvio Reffo shoots up Hotel Supramonte and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco in Sardinia
06/12/2016 - Interviews
Silvio Reffo shoots up Hotel Supramonte and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco in Sardinia
Interview with Italian climber Silvio Reffo who recently repeated two of Sardinia’s most difficult multi-pitch sport climbs: Hotel Supramonte at Gola di Gorropu and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco at Punta Giradili. Climbing onsight, on both routes Reffo fell just once and...

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