410 News found

03/01/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites: French winter ascent of Civetta Solleder climb Winter mountaineering: an interview with French alpinist Max Bonniot after his repeat of the historic Solleder - Lettenbauer climb up the North-West Face of Mt. Civetta in the Dolomites, carried out together with Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines from 22 - 25 December 2017.

20/12/2017 - Climbing
Finale '68, in search of the climbing history and pioneering exploration of Finale Ligure In order to celebrate 50 years of rock climbing at Finale Ligure in NW Italy, Michele Fanni and Gabriele Canu have started a project to retrace Finale's explorative phase that took place between 1968 and 1975. After following in the footsteps of the early pioneers up 13 major cliffs, a...

18/12/2017 - Alpinism
Ice climbing Dolomites: the unknown ice climb up Torre Vitty Ice climbing in the Dolomites: an unknown ice climb, highly recommended by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher, up Torre Vitty in the Sella massif.

23/11/2017 - Alpinism
Angelika Rainer first female D15 with A Line Above the Sky Yesterday at the drytooling crag Tomorrow’s World in the Dolomites Angelika Rainer repeated A Line Above the Sky. With this ascent the climber from the South Tyrol has become the first woman in the world to climb D15 and, in doing so, she has equalled the maximum difficulty ever climbed...

13/09/2017 - Alpinism
Markus Pucher on Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia: I gave it everything Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher talks about the first winter solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet (2579 m), carried out in Patagonia on 8 September 2017.

16/08/2017 - Alpinism
Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents In July 2017 a Chilean expedition comprised of Andres Bosch, Alejandro Mora and Armando Montero has made two first ascents close to Broad Peak and K2 in Pakistan’s Karakorum range: Praqpa Ri South 7046m and the new route Mirchi up Norit Peak, 6270m.

04/08/2017 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs Vertical Chimera on Civetta, Dolomites Federica Mingolla and Francesco Rigon have repeated Chimera Verticale (IX, 600m + initial pedestal), the difficult alpine climb up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites) first ascended by Alessandro Baù, Daniele Geremia, Alessandro Beber and Luca Matteraglia.

26/07/2017 - Alpinism
Don Quixote, three legs and one prothesis up the Marmolada South Face. By Siebe Vanhee Belgian climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his repeat of Don Quixote up the Marmolada in the Dolomites together with paraclimber Frederik Leys. First climbed by Heinz Mariacher and Reinhard Schiestl in 1979, the route is considered a classic outing up the South Face.

21/07/2017 - Interviews
Katie Bono sets female Denali speed record Interview with American alpinist Katie Bono who on 13-14 June 2017 ascended and descended the West Buttress route on Denali (McKinley) in just 21 hours and 6 minutes. This is a female speed record and one of the fastest known times to date.

05/07/2017 - Alpinism
Mount Huntington: Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley climb complete South Ridge in Alaska Interview with American alpinists Jess Roskelley who made the first ascent of the South Ridge on Mount Huntington (3731m) in Alaska with Clint Helander. Called the Gauntlet Ridge (Alaska Grade 6, M6, A0, 95° snow, 2,500m), the committing new route was climbed alpine style over an 8-day period in mid-April.

29/05/2017 - Alpinism
Kilian Jornet summits Everest twice in a week After having summited Everest on 22 May 2017, on 27 May Spain’s Kilian Jornet Burgada reached the summit of the world’s highest mountain for the second time in one week. Jornet Burgada climbed without supplementary oxygen and in 17 hours from Advanced Base Camp.

05/04/2017 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Grandes Jorasses Pointe Whymper / Denis Trento skis SW Couloir At the end of March 2017 Denis Trento made what might well be the first integral ski descent of the SW Couloir of Pointe Whymper. The video and report of the Italian mountain guide and extreme skier about this ski descent which, in particular the final 400m, has probably never...

24/03/2017 - Climbing
Angelika Rainer powers through French Connection in the Dolomites In February 2017 Angelika Rainer from the South Tyrol repeated French Connection at the crag Tomorrow's World in the Italian Dolomites. Graded D15-, it is considered one of the hardest total dry routes in the world.

03/03/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière 2017 American alpinist Jeff Lowe has been awarded the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize will be assigned during the 25th edition of the mountaineering prize that will be celebrated in Grenoble, France, from 12 - 15 April. In the past the prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold...

01/03/2017 - Alpinism
Climbing in Patagonia: Pou brothers add Aguja Guillaumet ascent Spanish mountaineers Iker Pou and Eneko Pou have established a new mixed climb up the East Face of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia. Called 'Aupa 40', the 525m outing breaches difficulties up to 5+, M7 85˚.

29/01/2017 - Alpinism
Panta rei, new icefall in Valbruna, Italy, climbed by Enrico Mosetti and Tine Cuder Winter mountaineering: Enrico Mosetti reports about the first ascent of Panta rei, a new mixed climb in Valbruna (Julian Alps, Italy) first ascended on 24/01/2017 with Tine Cuder.
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