Don Quixote, three legs and one prothesis up the Marmolada South Face. By Siebe Vanhee

Winter 2017. I was approached by a dedicated and motivated Belgian climber, only a few years into climbing. He came with a clear question: "Siebe, do you want to climb an adventurous big wall or long multi-pitch route with me this summer?"

"Alright" I answered while looking at his right leg prothesis. "What did you have in mind?" I continued. He said climbing in the Dolomites would be awesome! "Ok, but it's going to be a challenge" and thought to myself this would be an interesting journey!

Fré Leys has been a passionate paraclimber for a year. Pushing his personal limits in the gym he trains hard for indoor paraclimbing competitions. But this summer he wanted something different. "What would it be like to climb in the mountains with my leg?" he asked himself.

Last week was the moment of truth! We warmed up on Via Decima, a classic 380 meter climb in Moiazza. A great challenge to make us consider how to approach our next project, Don Quixote on Marmolada. The climb is 800m long and has 22 pitches. What should we do with the crutches? Can Fré walk well enough with his climbing leg prothesis? How will the climbing and scrambling be on unstable ground? And what about the descent on the glacier?

After some waiting because of unstable weather, Saturday and Sunday were the days. The climb was successful. With one (cold) night spent in a cave on the middle ledge we reached the summit on Sunday and safely made it off the glacier.

Personally, this was my very first time 'guiding' someone on a multi-pitch climb and it made me realise once again how great it is when you're not used to this kind of experience. Although Fré has a leg prothesis, he did a great job like not many others would have been able to do! He certainly had the full adventurous multi-pitch experience! Congratz Fré, you're inspiring for all!

by Siebe Vanhee

TOPO: Don Quixote, Marmolada

TOPO: Via Decima, Moiazza

Link
www.siebevanhee.be and www.petzl.com