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Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
14/11/2022 - Book-press
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).
Nolwen Berthier onsights 8b+, Omaha Beach at Red River Gorge
10/11/2022 - Climbing
Nolwen Berthier onsights 8b+, Omaha Beach at Red River Gorge
29-year-old French rock climber Nolwen Berthier has onsighted her first 8b+, Omaha Beach at Red River Gorge, USA. She joins the small group of climbers capable of onsighting 8b+.
Giovanni Placci repeats Beginning (9a+) at Arco
10/11/2022 - Climbing
Giovanni Placci repeats Beginning (9a+) at Arco
21-year-old Italian climber Giovanni Placci has repeated Beginning (9a+) at Eremo di San Paolo, Arco, Italy
Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
09/11/2022 - Interviews
Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
Interview with Sebastian Pelletti after the first ascent of three new big routes in the Vampire Peaks area of Northwest Territories/Yukon in Canada, established with Michael Pedreros, Hernan Rodriguez Salas and the photographer Pato Diaz: 'Viaje Boreal' on Mount Dracula, 'Flow Latino' on Mount Dracula and 'Natural Mystic' on Dawn...
Camilla Moroni sends Heritage, 8B boulder problem in Val Bavona
08/11/2022 - Climbing
Camilla Moroni sends Heritage, 8B boulder problem in Val Bavona
In Switzerland Camilla Moroni has sent four 8A+ boulder problems, 'Delusion of Grandeur' and 'Second life' at Chironico, and 'Primitivo stand' and 'King of Sonlerto' in Val Bavona. The 21-year-old Italian climber has also sent her hardest problem to date, the 8B 'Heritage' in Val Bavona.
Watch Buster Martin climbing Action Directe in the Frankenjura
04/11/2022 - Climbing
Watch Buster Martin climbing Action Directe in the Frankenjura
Watch British rock climber Buster Martin repeating Action Directe, the world’s most revered 9a first ascended by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura, Germany, in 1991.
Ines Papert makes free ascent of her Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
04/11/2022 - Alpinism
Ines Papert makes free ascent of her Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
Ines Papert has made a free ascent of Wolke 7 on Hintere Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm in the Berchtesgaden Alps in Germany. The 350m 8a was established ground-up by the German climber in 2020 with her Slovenian husband Luka Lindič, who also made the first free ascent. Papert reports.
Will Bosi repeats Alphane, Shawn Raboutou’s Chironico testpiece
02/11/2022 - Climbing
Will Bosi repeats Alphane, Shawn Raboutou’s Chironico testpiece
On Monday 31 October 2022 William Bosi from Scotland made the third ascent of Alphane at Chironico in Canton Ticino, Switzerland. Established by Shawn Raboutou in April 2022, it was repeated by Aidan Roberts about a fortnight ago.
Le lion de Panshir at Cala Gonone in Sardinia rebolted / Brief interview with Yann Guesquiers
01/11/2022 - Climbing
Le lion de Panshir at Cala Gonone in Sardinia rebolted / Brief interview with Yann Guesquiers
Maurizio Oviglia recently rebolted one of Sardinia's iconic top-end sport climbs, Le lion de Panshir in the Millennium Cave at Cala Gonone and exchanged a few words with the first ascensionist, French ace Yann Guesquiers.
New Big Wall climbs on NW coast of Greenland
28/10/2022 - Alpinism
New Big Wall climbs on NW coast of Greenland
Over a period of 65 days Jacob Cook, Bronwyn Hodgins, Jaron Pham, Zack Goldberg-Poch, Angela Vanwiemeersch and Kelsey Watts explored the NW coast of Greenland where they established and repeated a series of new big wall climbs. Highlights of their by-fair-means expedition included the first ascent of Sea Barge Circus...
Aidan Roberts repeats Alphane at Chironico in Switzerland
25/10/2022 - Climbing
Aidan Roberts repeats Alphane at Chironico in Switzerland
24-year-old British rock climber Aidan Roberts has made the first repeat of Alphane, the boulder problem at Chironico in Switzerland first ascended by Shawn Raboutou in April 2022 and graded 9A by the American.
Monviso NNW Ridge in winter, following in the footsteps of Patrick Berhault. By Barbara Vigl
12/10/2022 - Alpinism
Monviso NNW Ridge in winter, following in the footsteps of Patrick Berhault. By Barbara Vigl
Barbara Vigl reports about her winter ascent, carried out with David Göttler in March 2022, of the NNW Ridge of Monviso in Italy. The first winter ascent was carried out by Patrick Berhault in 2001, as Ivo Ferrari explains in his introduction.
Alex Megos completes The Full Journey (9b) at Margalef
11/10/2022 - Climbing
Alex Megos completes The Full Journey (9b) at Margalef
On 9 October 2022 German climber Alexander Megos made the first ascent of Full Journey (9b) at Margalef in Spain.
We are Mahsa Amini! Interview with Iranian climber Nasim Eshqi
10/10/2022 - Interviews
We are Mahsa Amini! Interview with Iranian climber Nasim Eshqi
On September 16, 2022, Mahsa Amini, a 22-year-old Iranian woman, died after being arrested by the morality police in Tehran. Since then, outrageously brave, predominantly young women across the country have been protesting for human rights, equality and against the oppression of a totalitarian regime. German journalist Tom Dauer...
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
07/10/2022 - Alpinism
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
Slovenian alpinist Silvo Karo is to receive the 14th Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 17 to 20 November at Briançon in France. In the past the prestigious mountaineering prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot,...
Chris Frick (54) climbs Stop Sika (8c) at Rawyl, Switzerland
06/10/2022 - Climbing
Chris Frick (54) climbs Stop Sika (8c) at Rawyl, Switzerland
54-year-old Swiss climber Chris Frick reports about his recent repeat of Stop Sika, an 8c at Rawyl in Switzerland.

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