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James Price summits unclimbed Passu Sar North in Pakistan's Karakoram
13/10/2021 - Alpinism
James Price summits unclimbed Passu Sar North in Pakistan's Karakoram
This summer James Price made a first ascent of Passu Sar North (6884m) and opened new routes on Passu Diar (7295m) and Maidon Sar (6090m), also referred to as Darmyani Peak, by climbing the mountain's south ridge.
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
12/10/2021 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
The report by Tomas Franchini, currently in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, where he has climbed Nevado Ulta and Nevado Huandoy Norte.
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
08/10/2021 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
The 2021 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be awarded in November at Briançon, France, to Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer for their ascent of Sani Pakkush and Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn for their ascent of Mount Robson. Catalan...
New Matterhorn South Face route by François Cazzanelli, Marco Farina, Francesco Ratti
15/09/2021 - Alpinism
New Matterhorn South Face route by François Cazzanelli, Marco Farina, Francesco Ratti
Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Marco Farina and Francesco Ratti have established L’amitié, a new route on the south face of the Matterhorn dedicated to Roberto Ferraris.
Papilio on Sass de Stria, Dolomites, climbed by Anna & Michal Coubal
06/09/2021 - Alpinism
Papilio on Sass de Stria, Dolomites, climbed by Anna & Michal Coubal
Czech mountaineer Michal Coubal reports about his 4 August first ascent with his daughter Anna Coubalová of Papilio (VII+, 235m) up the SE Face of Sass de Stria (2477m) above Passo Valparola in the Dolomites.
Greenland Siren Tower, report #1 by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta
26/08/2021 - Alpinism
Greenland Siren Tower, report #1 by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta
Belgian climbers Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Jean-Louis Wertz are currently climbing in Greenland with Aleksej Jaruta from Sweden. After having reached the island by sailing boat from France, the team managed to establish the first route up the steep Siren...
Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans establish new variation on Pic de Bure in France
25/08/2021 - Alpinism
Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans establish new variation on Pic de Bure in France
German alpinists Stefan Glowacz and Philipp Hans have managed to establish a new line on Pic de Bure in the Dauphiné Prealps in France. The route is a variation to the classic Pilier Est established in 1961 by André Bertrand,...
New Kyrgyzstan climbs by Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev, Alex Tyulyupo
24/08/2021 - Alpinism
New Kyrgyzstan climbs by Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev, Alex Tyulyupo
Mountaineers Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev and Alex Tyulyupo have established a series of new routes in the Western Kokshaal-Too mountain range in Kyrgyzstan. Highlights included ascents of Pik Alpinist (5482m) and Pik Korolyova (5816m).
Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
20/08/2021 - Alpinism
Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
In July a Slovenian Youth Alpine Team comprised of Matija Volontar, Bor Levičnik, Matevž Štular and Blaž Karner succeeded in climbing two new routes on Hualcan (6122m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Štular provides the report of the ascents, one...
New climb on Peru’s Nevado Sullcon Sur by Steve Meder, Edward Saona
19/08/2021 - Alpinism
New climb on Peru’s Nevado Sullcon Sur by Steve Meder, Edward Saona
On the 9th of August, the French-Peruvian Andinists Steve Meder and Edward Saona established a new route up the South-West Face of Nevado Sullcon Sur (5650m) in the Central Cordillera mountain range of Peru. Cara Suroeste Directa is only...
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
16/08/2021 - Alpinism
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
Dmitrii Panov reports about a Russian summer 2020 climbing expedition to Peak Kart and Peak Mechta, situated in the South Muysky Ridge area of Siberia. During the 20-day expedition the climbers forged 8 new routes, made the first ascents of...
Christoph Schranz makes rope-solo first ascent of 8c multipitch on Hohe Munde, Austria
05/08/2021 - Alpinism
Christoph Schranz makes rope-solo first ascent of 8c multipitch on Hohe Munde, Austria
Austrian mountain guide Christoph Schranz has established, and subsequently freed, Ocha-Schau-Schuich, a 300m multi-pitch alpine climb graded 8c on Hohe Munde in Tyrol, Austria
Rick Allen perishes on K2
27/07/2021 - Alpinism
Rick Allen perishes on K2
68-year-old Scottish mountaineer Rick Allen has lost his life while attempting to establish a new route on K2. In 2012, together with Sandy Allan, he completed the historic first traverse of the interminable Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat.
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
26/07/2021 - Alpinism
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
Towards the end of June French mountain guides Martin Elias, Victor Saucède, Jeremy Stagnetto and Jérôme Sullivan made the first ascent of Harvest Moon, a new route on Dansam West (6600m) above the Kondus Valley in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbed...
Concha de Caracol South Face new route in Peru by Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin, Alex Torres
21/07/2021 - Alpinism
Concha de Caracol South Face new route in Peru by Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin, Alex Torres
Alpinists Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin and Alex Torres have made the first ascent of Cerveza, Pan y Ácido, a new mixed climb up the South Face of Concha de Caracol in the Cordillera Vilcanota massif in Peru.
Nevado Huamashraju Este, new route in Peru by Iker and Enenko Pou
15/07/2021 - Alpinism
Nevado Huamashraju Este, new route in Peru by Iker and Enenko Pou
Enenko and Iker Pou have made the first ascent of ¡Viva Perú Carajo !, a new mixed climb up the South Face of Nevado Huamashraju East in Peru. At the same time their expedition partners Manu Ponce and Micher Quito...

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