Concha de Caracol South Face new route in Peru by Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin, Alex Torres

A small international expedition comprised of Andres Marin and Alex Torres from Colombia and Anna Pfaff from the USA has successfully climbed what according to preliminary research is likely to be a new route up Concha de Caracol, a stunning 5,640m peak in the Cordillera Vilcanota massif in Peru.

Climbing alpine style on the 13th of July, the trio forged a line up the mountain's south face, first climbed in 1972 by a German expedition. The alpinists dealt with terrain described as being both difficult and engaging to the right of the Catalan route established in 2019 by Orial Barò and partners, via a 700m line graded ED 90°. After breaching the face the trio made an open bivy on the ridge at about 5500m, and summited the next day before returning via the line of ascent.

The new route has been called Cerveza, Pan y Ácido. Success came about after Luis Condori from Pery, Danielle Dubois from Holland and Nathan Heald from the USA were forced to turn around 30 meters below the ridge due to dangerously unconsolidated snow in 2011.

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