New Kyrgyzstan climbs by Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev, Alex Tyulyupo

Kirill Belotserkovskiy from Kazakhstan and Ivan Temerev and Alex Tyulyupo from Russia spent three weeks this August climbing in the Western Kokshaal-Too mountains, located on the southernmost part of the Tien Shan mountain rage straddling the border between Kyrgyzstan and China. The three attempted a few new routes on these "giant and freezingly beautiful mountains" as Belotserkovskiy puts it.

The trio acclimatised by climbing the north face and north ridge of 5482m high Pik Alpinist. Belotserkovskiy described the peak as "One of the most beautiful mountains I’ve ever climbed." After setting off from base camp at 4200m, they reached the ridge, pitched their tent and and pushed on to the summit the same day before returning to the tent and descending safely the next morning. This is only the fourth route and fourth ascent of this striking peak. Acclimatisation was concluded with Belotserkovskiy scrambling up the south ridge of Karatoo, 4615m, completing the mountain’s second ascent.

After a short rest the the trio then climbed the North face and NW Ridge of Pik Korolyova. The trio had originally planned to climb a line up the center of the face but retreated after encountering difficult conditions. They then tackled a line further to the right, reaching the saddle where they bivied. The weather turned extremely bad on the second day but despite high winds, heavy spindrift and snowfall, they nevertheless managed to follow the ridge to the 5816m summit. Their 1650m line is graded AI4 M5 and believed to be only the third ascent of the mountain.

The expedition came to an end with Temerev and Tyulyupo climbing a new line up the South Face of Pik Marona East, 4610m, while Belotserkovskiy soloed the south ridge of Pik Skalistiy, 4845m.

A detailed report will follow in due course.

Link: FB Kirill Belotserkovskiy, CAMP - Cassin