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Blind paraclimber Jesse Dufton climbs The Old Man of Hoy
05/06/2019 - Climbing
Blind paraclimber Jesse Dufton climbs The Old Man of Hoy
Blind British paraclimber Jesse Dufton, guided by his climbing partner Molly Thompson, has repeated world famous trad climb The Old Man of Hoy off the Orkney Islands in Scotland. First ascended by in 1966 by Chris Bonington, Tom Patey and Rusty Baillie, this 6-pitch outing is a true symbol of...
Bischofsmütze North Face, new mixed climb established by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer, Hans Zlöbl
03/06/2019 - Alpinism
Bischofsmütze North Face, new mixed climb established by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer, Hans Zlöbl
Mountaineering in East Tyrol: Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer and Hans Zlöbl have made the first ascent of Kitchen Window, a 'severe mixed climb' up the North Face of Bischofsmütze in Austria.
Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president
13/05/2019 - Interviews
Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president
Interview with the president of the Cervino mountain guides Flavio Bich, after the decision to restrict the places available in Capanna Carrel, the hut on the Italian side of the Matterhorn, and to make reservation obligatory in the summer months.
Tonale new ski descent by Miori and Mascaro down Punta Castellaccio
Tonale new ski descent by Miori and Mascaro down Punta Castellaccio
On 9 February 2019 Alessio Miori and Vincenzo Mascaro skied a possible new line down Punta Castellaccio above the Tonale Pass in the Adamello - Presanella group of the Italian Alps.
Cimon della Pala: Giuseppe Vidoni and Gabriele Colomba forge new mixed climb in Dolomites
16/03/2019 - Alpinism
Cimon della Pala: Giuseppe Vidoni and Gabriele Colomba forge new mixed climb in Dolomites
On 24/02/2019 Giuseppe Vidoni and Gabriele Colomba made the first ascent of Via degli Allievi up the north face of Cimon della Pala. About 700m high and with difficulties around AI5 M4, this is likely to be a new mixed climb in the Pale di San Martino group in the...
Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur Cassin route: double one-day winter ascent!
23/02/2019 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur Cassin route: double one-day winter ascent!
On Tuesday 19 February the French alpinists Léo Billon, Sébastien Ratel and Benjamin Védrines carried out a one-day winter ascent of the Cassin route up the Walker Spur on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. A few hours later, Switzerland’s Caro North and Argentinia’s Carlos Molina also completed the...
Pietra Grande first ski descent in Brenta Dolomites by Claudio Lanzafame, Marco Maganzini
Pietra Grande first ski descent in Brenta Dolomites by Claudio Lanzafame, Marco Maganzini
Claudio Lanzafame and Marco Maganzini have made a first ski descent on the northwest face of Pietra Grande in the Brenta Dolomites, Italy. Lanzafame reports about True Love, climbed and skied on on 20/12/2018
Tigersoft, new winter climb in Brenta Dolomites
07/02/2019 - Alpinism
Tigersoft, new winter climb in Brenta Dolomites
Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: Simone Banal reports about the first ascent of Tigersoft, a new winter climb up the north face of Cima Brenta established with Fabrizio Dellai and Marco Zanni.
Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
17/01/2019 - Alpinism
Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
Enrico Sasso reports about his 11 December 2018 solo first ascent of Rose (ED, 380m, WI4, M7) a new mixed route up the north face of Marguareis in the Ligurian Alps, Italy.
Agostino Gustin Gazzera, goodbye to the spirit of the mountaineer
17/01/2019 - Alpinism
Agostino Gustin Gazzera, goodbye to the spirit of the mountaineer
In memory of Agostino 'Gustin' Gazzera. Born in 1927, the Italian alpinist died on 11 January 2019 after demonstrating a lifetime’s love for the mountains.
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
10/01/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb cram (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
10/12/2018 - Alpinism
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
On Asta Nunaat in eastern Greenland Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari have made the first ascent of 'Gioielli Viventi', a new rock climb (320m, VI+/A1) established on 9 August 2018. This is likely to be only the second ascent of this mountain, after the first carried out in 2006 by...
Le Quatuor à cordes, new climb up Lobuche East above Nepal's Khumbu valley
03/12/2018 - Alpinism
Le Quatuor à cordes, new climb up Lobuche East above Nepal's Khumbu valley
Himalayan climbing: French mountaineers Aurélien Vaissière, Antonin Cecchini, Laurent Thévenot and Symon Welfringer have established Le Quattro à Cordes, a new route up Lobuche East (6120m) above the Khumbu valley in Nepal.
Jess Roskelley and Scott Coldiron climb A Peak Central Couloir in Cabinet Mountains, USA
30/11/2018 - Alpinism
Jess Roskelley and Scott Coldiron climb A Peak Central Couloir in Cabinet Mountains, USA
The Central Couloir of A Peak in the Cabinet Mountains, Montana, USA, has been climbed by Jess Roskelley and Scott Coldiron.
Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman add The Indirect American to Mt MacDonald, Canada
26/11/2018 - Alpinism
Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman add The Indirect American to Mt MacDonald, Canada
Chris Wright (USA/UK) and Graham Zimmerman (USA/NZ) have made the first ascent of a long, difficult mixed route on the North Face of Mount MacDonald in the Selkirk Mountains in British Columbia, Canada. 1000 meters long, the Indirect American was climbed from 11 - 13 November 2018 and deals with...
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
16/11/2018 - Alpinism
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
Italian alpinist Maurizio Giordani reports about his climbing expedition to Pakistan during which, with Massimo Faletti, he completed a stylish ascent of Water World, a beautiful and difficult big wall up the hitherto unclimbed Kiris Peak (5428m). The other expedition members included Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomin, Cristiano Marinello, Andrea Peron,...

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